UPDATE: issue resolved, MIL eliminators do NOT work on newer cars.

Because they give a steady and constant voltage it does not let the computer test the 02 sensor which will leave the monitors incomplete until it is removed.
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As the title states, my car went in for inspection and when the mechanic plugged in to the obd it just told him not ready.

He told me to drive it 50 miles to reset the computer but I've driven it a few thousand miles without ever having the battery die or disconnecting it.

I am byt tuned, but does anyone know why this would happen, And how to fix the issue?

 

The key has to be in the run position. That's about it, unless the fuse is blown.

 

Well he has inspected my car before and never had an issue so I'm pretty sure he knows that part lol

And what fuse?

 

I'm having issues with emissions testing too. My readiness monitors aren't completing for evap and cat, it's failed twice.

 

Well it hasn't failed its just in a not ready state, same as if someone disconnects the battery to turn off a cel for inspection

 

Hmm. I wish I could help with that, I'm about to make a thread about my issue.

 

The OBDII plug is fused. I believe it uses the same fuse as the cigarette lighter, but I don't remember for sure. It would be in the fuse box on the passenger side below the dash.

 

Hmm, ill have to check that fuse. But wouldn't it just not read rather than say system not ready

 

I checked any and every fuse that had to do with the computer and obd, under the hood and in the car.

Anyone else have any ideas? Ive read that the monitors can all be set to 'Ready' through hptuners, is this correct?

 

maybe your computer has pending codes and therefore causing the not ready state????



edit: also maybe the tune has a code that is disabled which would cause the not ready state if something was turned off

 

Your OBD II readiness monitors are not set. Happens to me every year because I am constantly adjusting tunes and reflashing the computer. You have to do the drive cycle. I even tried tricking the computer for everything to ready but our ECM's are set up so you can't. For example, in my LS1 GTO you can trick the sensor into always being ready so when it comes time for inspection, the computer passes no problem.

Here is a link and the actual drive cyle. It took me about 5 times to get them to ready and pass so don't expect it to work on the first or even third try.

General Motors Driving Cycle

General Motors Driving Cycle
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

 

that seems like a fairly long time to check some basic systems...

 

you dont think after driving the car 4,000+miles it would have reset the monitors?

 

The OBDII fuse is under the hood. It's the same fuse as the cigarette lighters, should be labeled "LTR"

 

It is a long time but the computer needs to see a certain amount of things before it will perform the test.

I drove 5k+ over 3 months and they STILL didn't ready the monitors. The computer HAS to see specific parameters before it will do the test and ready them. In this car anyway. In other cars I've had, they would ready after 50 miles lol. The Cobalt SS/TC is a BITCH

 

is the LSJ the same?

 

That's cool, I'll be driving on expired plate for like 6 months. What a retarded system.

 

I'm not sure but I don't think it is. I think it's the Bosh ECU that is the problem lol.

I drove for a month with an expired inspection sticker and then 2 more months with a Reject sticker until the monitors were ready. The key is just do the drive cycle every morning before work/school. That's how I got it the quickest. Took 5 days once I figured it out.

 

you can trick it with an HPtune.. but yes.. **** is annoying.. my car isnt ready .. and hasnt been for like 3 months lol i dont have a sticker

 

You can't trick it on the LNF. I've tried. For months I tried lol.

 

i ******* hate that heated o2 sensor ****, i get 4 codes all for the 2nd O2, all of them tell me to replace the o2 lmfao

 

well im glad im not the only one with this problem i have a lsj but fuse is good i tried to get a reading of the computer to see what code it was throwing but there was no signal coming from the cars computer what could be the problem with that would i need a new one ?

 

hmm weird i know usually it just takes turning off / setting ALOT of **** lol

 

 

I need to get this fixed asap since PA has no grace period for a failed emissions inspection...