https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lnf-performance-tech-153/thoughts-all-intakes-currently-avaliable-ss-tc-206581/

This is a great thread. I would request that the first post be updated for the "new" AEM intake, as you have since stated that it is much better. Also, can you add a baseline? Drive around a car with a stock everything and put what the trims are so that we have a baseline comparison? I know it is extra work, but I feel it would really make the thread complete. There is no such thing as an experiment that doesn't have a control group.

Oh, I have a question to the tuners our there. If somebody in, say, AZ, gets a tune from you in the winter here (60*-70* outside) and then wants a retune in the summer (115* outside) and then wants a retune in the winter and then in the summer and then....etc etc. Thoughts? With the extreme heat we have here a winter tune would cause huge knock in the summer and a summer tune would give up performance during the winter, so having a couple tunes on hand would be useful for changing weather conditions. But, for those of us who don't have our own cables and tuning software we can't just have a couple tunes on hand to update ourselves whenever we want. What should we do?

 

Thanks for reminding me. I need to update the info with new info on the new AEM intake which I have had on my car for a few months now. I have also logged and tuned two LNF's with CIA's SRI and 2 LNFs with K&Ns SRI.
Normally on a stock car, stock intake the LTFT is 0.0 to -0.8 and the STFTs sit at -3 to +3 (some areas up to +5) The LTFT is a really good indicator as to how stable the overall A/F is in the car. On the winter vs summer dilemma the ECM has an optimum spark table and spark vs IAT and spark vs ECT that will adjust to changing weather conditions. That being said even in Florida our winter blend gas is not so great. I can run just as much timing at 100* as I can at 40*.

 

Question, 06 SS/SC ( yes, I know its a turbo thread), intake only, AFR is a solid 12 at WOT across the board. This ok, or not?

 

So you're saying I can put the Drop in back in but I need to reset it by disconnecting the negitive terminal on my battery? Or are you saying since I switched back I need to reset my fuel by doing the above?

Also how long do I disconnect it for?

 

Since switching back you need to disco the battery so the LT trim will Zero and adjust to the new filter/intake faster.


The dropin will always screw up the trims on a car not tuned for it . Mine were anywhere from a -8 to a -5 LTFT with the K&N filter . Stock filter LTFT's are 0- +/- 1 .... pretty much perfect.

My car runs stronger on the stock filter with good LT fuel trims.......... than it does on the K&N with shitty trims.

 

Haha well I will have to do some reading to make sure I'm doing it right. It took me years of messign with carbs, points, and distributor caps to figure out how to tune a car right. I'm 25 so its not like I'm an old timer but When you get used to something, something new just makes me freak out a bit haha. I remember timing my first car with a light gun haha **** I'm sure I have completely lost you guys, I will just get help from a pro when I get it tuned... I know my limitations thanks very much.

 

At least you had a timing light ..... My dad would make me hold her at 2500 and he would do it by ear. It was usually pretty darn close after that . That was on my old 72 nova SS with 427 .

 

Yeah I have been driving on the AEM tuned by Term for some time now. Man does this car rock.


And to those who don't know Term is not some greedy bastard looking for money. He could charge a lot more than he does for the work that he does. Term and BYT are the only two people I trust with my car's ecu! You guys both rock and you two push each other and have healthy competition.

 

Haha yea I hear you on that... My dad did that once just to show me... timing lights are great. My old 55 chevy had a 327 that I had tuned within an inch of its life... It's so much easier for me than this computer stuff... But enough about that back to the thread I don't want to highjack it from people paying attention and contributing. haha

 

If only HP Tuners put more tools in their hands ...... It's really a shame that they have kinda abandoned the LNF. If you live within a couple hours of either one of these guys ..... It's a no brainer ...... you won the LNF lottery .

 

Nope Leave the stock filter in and desconnect the battery to reset the LTFT back to 0. 15 seconds should suffice to reset the LTFT.

 

Yes provided you are not seeing any knock 12.0 A/F on your LSJ is within the normal range 11.5-12.2 A/F is acceptable on your car IMHO.

 

so I chose to disconnect the pcm because I didn't have access to a wrench at work, did that do it you think out should I still do the battery?

 

Nope either one will work just the same.

 

Glad everyone stoped arguing

 

I am not a tuner. I have nothing to gain by posting this.


Anything and everything that has been said by Wangspeed, BYT, Terminator and anyone else who I might have missed is EXACTLY, 100% right in that if you're going to put an intake on this car, plan on a tune or suffer the consequences. Might not be immediately noticeable but it will impact your car and how it feels at some point in time.

Having the ability to monitor my own car and see just how F'ing ridiculously sensitive it is to rich/lean conditions is and continues to be is a major eye opener. Anyone saying that it's "Perfectly fine to be off by X %" on either the LTFT or the STFT is doing you a great disservice and is spoon feeding you that wonderful sauce called MISINFORMATION.


My car has the stock air box/filter and I can't tell you what kind of a difference cleaning up the MAF can do in terms of drive ability, fuel consumption, performance, KR reduction/suppression etc. She's a mean, nasty bitch and DAMN is she ever sensitive...But, wine and dine her nicely and she will put out

I can only imagine those of you with the stock tuning and some form of an intake. I'll bet your car is slower than someone else who is bone stock.



Wang - Thank you for posting this thread.

Term - Thank you for taking the time to put together the stickied thread on all of the different intakes and their performance, short comings, downfalls, etc. Thank you for also taking the time to try and help educate those that do not have the ability to see what exactly is going on.

BYT - Thank you for taking the time to explain to the uninformed and those without the ability to see what/when/how/where and why.

Anyone else who I might have missed, THANK YOU!

Edit - Also, I can definitely attest to both Terminator and BYT being more than willing to help and share some information. Now, don't get me wrong, neither is just going to GIVE YOU the answer. They will however go out of their way and help you to find/achieve what you're after with a little "nudge" in the right direction.

 

 

LOL this is the first time i heard of an intake causing an engine to run leans your joking for sure. i have the most picky car when it comes with CEL and running lean and i have had no issue with an intake my car has two air sensors one mas and another airflow meter and not one issue.

 

And people like you are the reason there is so much mis-information. Do you have any logging software? Are you able to see what's going on? So you have two MAF's? That's amazing.

Great post bro.

Edit - BTW, we're talking about the direct injected LNF, IN THE LNF SECTION.

 

My car gained plenty of power with the K&N intake it would only spin 2nd on certain roads before, now it will do it every time. My LTFT are at 1.6 now and still need to adjust the filter a little more and should be real close to 0.0 At WOT its 0.0 almost every time

 

Thanks, good to know.

 

I don't need any many before me have done the same mods have run the car for years a CAI i swear has no effect on running lean or not the MAF is what tell the ECU how much fuel to pump into the mix to run a perfect 14.7:1 ratio by saying a CAI throws this ff is retarded. If this is true what you say then i feel sorry for the designers of the ECU. My engine will not fail after putting a CAI in, lmfao the only way it will fail is if i jump a huge puddle and i hydro lock it. b235r > ecotec line

 

You have no clue how a modern car works. I created this thread for people like you.

http://www.viggenfactfile.de/faq.html#trionic7

Like any modern car, the t7 ECU has to be properly MAF calibrated for changes.

The t7 is also a traditional ECU in that it operates in open loop while at WOT or near WOT conditions. The LNF operates in closed loop almost the entire time, meaning that it is absolutely critical that the MAF calibration is good. Quite frankly, this is the way of the future. It is more elegant and the car runs better, and they can save more fuel.

Go pull 7% fuel from your open loop fueling tables and let us know how your car runs...

 

Yes i know how it feels like to run lean pinging all the time, when i reprogramed me ecu the first time i was hitting lean the whole time i had to relflash it myself twice before i got proper tune down and it makes 309bhp/339 ftlbs i know that most tunes on my forum are reccoemnded a new maf when they get new software. all im saying is a CAI should not affect tunes,

 

I cant read any more got abot 4 pages in so im sorry if someone else asked already. Im going to back to stock intake for previous post i just read so do i need to do the charge pipe as well?also when going back to stock and disco the battery all will reste and run better or same?