exactly...dont know what kind of techs you have but i dropped my car off yesterday and my guy calls me today and told me because my rear (car has 2 pumps) is bad and its taking over half the pressure from my car and is causing it to run shitty so my fuel pump is on order and soon as it comes in my car should be fine.

i had the same issues as you tho my car would lag alot and the turbo flutters alot and because that fuel pump isnt feeding my car anymore so its not getting the fuel it needs to run right.

 

SO I read up on this been following it, the LFP (lowside fuel pressure) is apparently unmonitorable except with the use of a fuel pressure gauge. It took me a second to find the schrader valve but I hooked it up and here is what I found. My pressure stays at 60-62 lbs NO MATTER WHAT. I did get drops to 58 psi in longer 3rd gear pulls but it's nothing outside of spec.

Reasons for in tank pump failure> bad fuel pressure regulator (there is a built in accumulator that ensures every stroke of the HPFP is supplied with fuel) if it's bad it will be easy to outperform the fueling capabilities. This may or may not show on fuel trims, it can appear as misfires, pump aeration could do that. Voltage supply to pump low, this is a no brainer, if your pump isn't getting full power you need to address it. QUICK fix, swap your relays for your fuel pump and ac compressor ( make sure they match off the top of my head I'm not positive) if the car's performance improves the relay was at fault (it happens) if not, check your voltage at the relay to ensure it's battery voltage.

Anyways before I get too far off course, for both BYT and the OP, (OP first) your dealer needs to ensure all connections are good, the Tech2 sees, and reads them all as nominal at both Key on engine off and key on engine on. There are specs to determine if a sensor has a bad baseline and needs replacement. Your dealer NEEDS TO DIAG CORRECTLY. They need to keep your car ALL DAY so they can drive it in open and closed loop (which can also be commanded). They need to check sensor baselines for specification, as well as specifications for idling while hot. Then if nothing has appeared, they need to drive the car while the Tech 2 shows the misfire graphic. At this point if I haven't figured it out, I'll open up HP Tuners on the laptop and do a 30 minute log session to see if I can identify an intermittent issue. Most techs will NOT drive your car at it's limit for liability reasons, nothing worse than torching a customer's engine even if the diag problem was direct cause your still liable. So with all this said, the biggest thing is the misfire graphic observation while driving the card very hard. It is also a great time for the tech to observe ignition voltage, which does drop as spark load increases but shouldn't drop below 12 volts. That is something they probably didn't address is ignition voltage, and could be the cause, in which case because of the coil on plug setup they will have to address ground and ignition driver circuits from PCM to COP in the harness I've seen them get real hot and "stick" together or the coating splits open, and thus the spark is weak.

BYT, try applying the above, observe ignition voltage (it will be 13.x at idle and drop with engine load to about 13.0) which is considered normal. Also a good time to check your engine to chassis grounds, clean them and reinstall. And make sure your new coils came with new boots, the heat they see torches the silicone boots and can cause high load problems that appear to be bad coils. Also be sure your using dielectric grease on both sides of the boot, this is particularly important because they do put out roughly 35-45KV. Also remember where your injector orientation is in relation to your plug and the duty cycle vs your cam phase and advance, increasing air load increases spark load exponentially, it may be at that point where you need ignition driver amplifiers. (HIGHLY DOUBTFUL) Also if you have a spark tester, take the coil out and see at what point your spark no longer bridges the gap, that measurement can tell you your output KV. No idea what access to tools you have but if you have questions let me know I can try to help from here.

I have questions though, what brand plug, what range colder if any, what gap, what is your idle output battery voltage, your ELD if your HPT can see it maybe not it seems its a tech 2 feature only. I'm looking for parasitic load in your harness that's reducing your spark intensity. I say that because your knowledgeable in tuning and understand when you have sensor problems or fueling issues.