Ok hear is the deal. Most of you have seen my 13.2 run at 104. After looking around and some help from a few of you I think Lowering my shift points I will be able to pick up a .1th. My 60 is about as good as Its going to get On my tires (2.0 all seasons) On my 13.2 runs I was running the factory air box with a drop in and I have a aem intake I can put back on the car. I know intakes loose drivability and cause fuel trim problems But I am wondering about the wot effects? I have ordered charge pipes and Will hopefully have them on the car before the next outing so That might pick me up a half 10th. Any thoughts about the intake making up the last ..05 to kiss 12s. I have thought about a few different ways to possibly get just a bit more out of it but I am interested in what you all in the know... know. I am used to 4 barrels and caltracs. Will be getting a hp tune after I break 12s regardless But I want to see what the gms1 can truly do on street tires. I am making this slightly more difficult refusing to do weight reduction as I want the car to run the number in street trim.
Josh

 

Some are claiming more power on the vaccum tank delete. That's about all I can really think of besides going fully bolted.

 

I had kicked the pill mod idea around or the tank delete jut to hopefully keep boot from drooping off... might be worth getting the stuff to do it so I can at least give it a shot at the track.
Josh

 

I'm in the same boat as you I am hoping for 12's on street tires as well.Last year I went 13.10@110 on a Trifecta 22psi car with K=N drop in and catless downpipe and Injen chargepipe.Since then I have added a Hahn intake,retuned for it and upped the boost a couple,next is 235 40 18 NITTO 555's and a TTR upper mount.I think I should do it.I think a downpipe would help a ton for you.I wish you all the luck in the world my friend

 

:facepalm: you should NOT be doing the pill mod if you aren't tuned for you.

You will go slower due to knock since you're increasing boost pressure without making adjustments for it.

or you will go BOOM.

 

haha I know thats why I just said it was option. I should have clarified the fact I ment pill after the tune. I have a catless dp billy. And I see no reason you wont be in the 12s is you can drive.
Josh

 

2.09 60ft I guess I just lost some in the middle of the run.Maybe I needed to shift to fourth.I also had Vince give me a 7k rev limiter in 3rd this time around.

 

Are you determined on hitting 12's with your all seasons? Why not get some Dunlop Dirrezza Star Specs or NITTO 555's in a 235/40/R18 size that should help you a fair bit. Maybe put it on a diet too lol (pass seat and rear seats, floor mats, spare tire..... just a thought).

 

I like the jist of this thread;

subscribed.

 

If you can run a 13.2 on a GM tune, there is no reason you couldn't be into the 12s on an aftermarket tune.

Just be careful that they don't tune you for 100% tq in first gear (unless you are getting some serious drag radials or slicks), otherwise you will have trouble keeping your 60fts where they are.

But there is a lot of power tuning beyond the stage tune, you should be able to make it.

Kevin

 

uuuhhh drag radials and a 1.8 60ft. Every tenth you cut from 60ft is like 2 tenths at the finish line(or something like that). Get a set of cheap rims for the front and mount some drag radials to them, use 12-15 psi in em and heat em up before a launch. If that doesnt work then go back to the drawing board with more mods. I would def do tires 1st!

 

street trim = regular all searsons and the whole point is I want to break into the 12s on just the gms1 Basicaly any good aftermarket tune will do 12.s its not the point of this topic. Just tires alone I think would get me in the 12.8 range but im not doing tires to cut .2 off more like .4 and as far as cutting a 10th off your 60 taking off .2 off your long time I disagree, for me anyway I usualy see a .15 off with every .1 drop in 60s.
so to recap... all seasons gms1 no weight reduction. Tune and tires are to easy and I like to push limmits.
Josh

 

well if you're determined to do it on all seasons then have a perfect launch every time and get more mods. Maybe an airbox mod would help a little. I would say find that perfect launch right around a 2.0 and you'll get close. I cut a 2.0 60' a few times on summer tires with a stock set up, so the fact that a 2.0 on all seasons is attainable with this setup, and since you're determined to do it with a STREET setup, get some summer tires for summer time. Maybe you'll get in the 1.8-1.9 60' range...I can tell you that if I cut a 1.8 or 1.9 60' I'd be running about 12.8.

 

Get a tune on top of that GMS1 tune and 12's will be no issue.

 

I could not of said it better

I ran a 2.0 on summer tires with a stock tune, thats carzy to think you ran it on all seasons should get high12's with just summer tire

 

Traction willing LOL.

 

^ especially at the line.

 

well its possible to leave 1st gear stock tune right? 2.0 60 isnt a big issue for me on the allseasons. I need to hurry the hell up because its about to get hot here and times wont improve im sure. Charge tubes in the mail and intake going back on this week after a oil change. Might be able to get it all together this weekend. As soon as It breaks 12s I will be getting a tune on top.
Wish me luck haha
Josh

 

I don't think I saw it mentioned, do you have a downpipe? That is probably the best bolt on that you can get after the tune.

Kevin

 

He does,that was the first thimg I thought of too.

 

Reeel nice 60's(and 1320's).
Curious to see how much hot side piping helps as I'm considering an upgrade too. Not sure if it's in line with what you're wanting to accomplish but you might consider drag bags or other susp. mods. I believe cmiller had chains on the front end to counter lift as well.

 

We have been considering straps on the front end of the car like they do on bikes. I did not know anyone did chains already but the concept is the same. I wish we had some double adjustable struts that werent so pricey to adjust rebound and what not. The bags are A great idea. I use footballs (poormans bags) It makes the launch more consistant. I have done 2.0 60 fts without them but it makes it easier thats for sure. It also helps on the 1-2 shift to keep the tires planted. a true bag is possibly in the works But I am undecided on putting pedders springs on or not... I worry it will change the angle of the half shafts as they are really straight now and putting it in a bind could cause breakage. I need to see some pictures of the angle change on the shafts. Another possible chance is it would help because if at rest the cars shafts are straight when you gas it the front end will come up and it could put it at a odd angle in it self something lowering springs could help with. Im not good with numbers when it comes to suspension but I can see how it works and adjust as needed.
either way I would like to get the car running to its best down the track on the gms1 befor I really put some decent power down and try to work with nothing.
Josh

 

Im running Progress springs and make more power and torque, launching the car at 3k I have had 0 issues. The Progress are dropped further then the Pedders too.

 

what are you cutting for 60s. Traction is the easiest thing to break. never broke anything on anycar really untill I started running micky's and truley hooking up.
Josh

 

2.1's, 2.2's on street's and 2.0's on DR's. My track is pretty meh tho, they just repaved is so I want to get under a 2.0 this season and post a mid 12 1/4