HOW TO REQUEST: LNF Replace clutch and tranny mounts!!
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HOW TO REQUEST: LNF Replace clutch and tranny mounts!!
Hey guys,
I used the search function like always and didn't find anything about how to replace the clutches in our car. I am not perfect so I need a walk through similiar to: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...lywheel-19283/ <--- this is for lsj.. I would really appreciate one for LNF.. This one is so descriptive and practically made for newbs
I will be replacing stock clutch with - clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck
--and--
I will be replacing stock trans mounts with -- OTTP Stage 2 rotated
I used the search function like always and didn't find anything about how to replace the clutches in our car. I am not perfect so I need a walk through similiar to: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...lywheel-19283/ <--- this is for lsj.. I would really appreciate one for LNF.. This one is so descriptive and practically made for newbs
I will be replacing stock clutch with - clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck
--and--
I will be replacing stock trans mounts with -- OTTP Stage 2 rotated
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pretty sure it is similar from the lsj to the lnf. maybe a few minor differences. dont quote me on that as i havent done a clutch job yet. but the tranny mounts are they same from 05-10 i thought.
#4
Be prepared for a hell of a time. I don't know if you've ever replaced a clutch on a fwd car, but it's a huge job. If I ever do it again I am going to take my time and maybe do it over a full week, just working on it a few hours a day. Last time I did it all in 1 day and it just about killed me. It's not really difficult, just takes forever.
Doing the mounts is a piece of cake.
Doing the mounts is a piece of cake.
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Jack your car up as high as you can, but be sure NOT to put the jackstands on the subframe as you'll need to pull the subframe later.
Unhook the battery
Pull out the fusebox housing so you can get to the shifter linkage.
Either unbolt the shifterlinkage bracket or just pop the shifter linkage off of the bracket. Note: when reasembling make sure not to strip the bolt holes.
Now take your tires off.
Now work on taking your axles out and setting them aside and out of the way. Might as well drain the trans fluid before this step or you'll just leak fluid all over the place when you yank the axels and especially when you yank the trans.
Make sure any and all wires are disconnected from the transmision. You have a reverse sensor and another one...
Next set a jack under the engine and hold it up as you need to start taking the subframe out. Note that the radiator is mounted to the subframe and will need to be propped up or it will fall out.
Pull the subframe and the two mounts out, you'll see which ones.
Next work on unbolting the transmission from the engine. Make sure to only do the ones on the bellhousing and not the transmission itself. Do it slowly and make sure the tranny wont just fall out (its heavy :P) Get a freind to help you since its a difficult position.
Also, when you yank the subframe be sure to disconnect the rack and pinion from the sub frame. Do not remove the rack and pinion from the stearing or you'll end up with a crooked stearing wheel and itsa bitch to realign.
I'm sure I missed a step or two in there somewhere. Like unhooking the clutch line that goes from the master to the tranny housing. Be sure to stopper it up or you'll leak brake fluid all over. If you have any other questions, give me a shout, man. Job should take 8 hours or so to get it out and about the same to get it in. Longer if you do a lot of double checking. I suggest replacing the throw out bearing as well as flyhweel bolts. Gotta yank the flywheel as well and have it turned so it doesnt chew your new clutch up. I think you have to yank the starter to get it out of the way...
(i keep comming back and editing)
Unhook the battery
Pull out the fusebox housing so you can get to the shifter linkage.
Either unbolt the shifterlinkage bracket or just pop the shifter linkage off of the bracket. Note: when reasembling make sure not to strip the bolt holes.
Now take your tires off.
Now work on taking your axles out and setting them aside and out of the way. Might as well drain the trans fluid before this step or you'll just leak fluid all over the place when you yank the axels and especially when you yank the trans.
Make sure any and all wires are disconnected from the transmision. You have a reverse sensor and another one...
Next set a jack under the engine and hold it up as you need to start taking the subframe out. Note that the radiator is mounted to the subframe and will need to be propped up or it will fall out.
Pull the subframe and the two mounts out, you'll see which ones.
Next work on unbolting the transmission from the engine. Make sure to only do the ones on the bellhousing and not the transmission itself. Do it slowly and make sure the tranny wont just fall out (its heavy :P) Get a freind to help you since its a difficult position.
Also, when you yank the subframe be sure to disconnect the rack and pinion from the sub frame. Do not remove the rack and pinion from the stearing or you'll end up with a crooked stearing wheel and itsa bitch to realign.
I'm sure I missed a step or two in there somewhere. Like unhooking the clutch line that goes from the master to the tranny housing. Be sure to stopper it up or you'll leak brake fluid all over. If you have any other questions, give me a shout, man. Job should take 8 hours or so to get it out and about the same to get it in. Longer if you do a lot of double checking. I suggest replacing the throw out bearing as well as flyhweel bolts. Gotta yank the flywheel as well and have it turned so it doesnt chew your new clutch up. I think you have to yank the starter to get it out of the way...
(i keep comming back and editing)
Last edited by raynrishad; 04-27-2011 at 06:34 PM.
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