I purchased the GMPP LNF turbo upgrade kit from crateenginedepot.com and had it installed at my local dealer. Some time after this I had a check engine light and a hesitation at low throttle. The local dealer scanned a fault with the MAP sensor which was part of the LNF kit. They replaced it under warranty and everything was good but I've recently been experiencing the same symptoms.

Has anyone else had problems with this GMPP Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor or should I be looking at the connections where it was spliced into the harness (even though I asked the dealer to check these connections when I had the problem the first time). ?

Thanks for any info.

 

most likely cause is the connections make sure they are soldered (spelling?)

 

if you do a search both here as well as elsewhere, you should read that there are many issues people are experiencing - but I think most are attributed to boost leaks or poor wiring.

my Stage1 is still in the box... just haven't yet been motivated to add it.

 

You need to invest in a oil catch can from mxp. There is a big chance that there was and oily substance that got in the map sensor and shorted it out. Thats what ive heard on these forums and the last time mine blew i took it off and there was oil on it.

 

I think it's more than *coincidence* that the MAP sensor problem started after GM1 install.
I think it's the lower MAP that may not be sitting perfectly FLAT. You have to file off a plastic boss on the lower pipe to get the new MAP to fit right. Maybe they didn't do that?
Also wiring splices has been an issue as well. BTW...any oil on the pressurized side as you describe, usually comes from oil leaking out of turbo oil supply/seals.

 

Yea but that could come from an oiled cotton filter also, however I would expect that more on the MAF sensor. I would say that, from what I have read on here, the wiring could be the culprit. It appears that having soldered connections is best, as is usually the case with electrical connections.

 

1) It is most likely the connections to the lower (in the intercooler tube by the AC) that need to be fixed.
2) check for a wire rub through at or near the AC Compressor.
3) check to see the sensor is sitting flat
4) check to see the o-ring is properly installed and not cracked (It should be blue)
5) check for a system leak

Do these in the order that they are listed.

Bill

 

number one and two are most likely IMO. I have this upgrade and my MAP sensory would hit the AC Compressor sensor on the lower intercooler piping, which would cause it to get a bad reading. The dealer simply zip tied my lower piping to hold it away from the AC sensor and now I don't have any problems at all, and this was about 3 months ago.

 

I've had problems with mine as well. The paperwork I have from the installation states that they removed the boss from the lower sensor (I pointed it out to them and highlighted it on the installation procedure). I've been getting a P0106 diagnostic trouble code which references the MAP sensor (I'm assuming that's the top sensor, not the bottom).

Also, sometimes my car won't boost above 0-5psi and runs like a total dog. I'll give the MAP sensor in the intake manifold a bit of a bump (make sure it's seated well and has a tight connection) and usually the problem will go away the next time I start the car.

Taken it to the dealers several times now, but it's never been misbehaving when I took it to the dealer so they've done nothing for me but waste my time

 

I gave them these exact instructions at the dealership so hopefully they looked it all over when they installed my 4th set of sensors. I doubt they checked the connections though so I'm going to just do all that myself when I get the time. Thanks again for your help and taking the time to post on here. Much appreciated!

 

I got the check engine light as well. I will take it to the dealer when it is convenient for me. Thanks Bill (More_Torque_More_HP)!

 

Wow this is really pissing me off! I love the stage 1 kit except for the fact that at random times i will get almost ZERO boost, and my check engine light comes on and off at random as well. Also experiencing some problems with rough engine running.

I've taken it into the dealer 3 times now and basically they don't know what the fix is. I've had them sauder the lower connection and that didn't solve the problems.

The codes that are coming up on the scan are: P0106, P0101, P0236 and P2261.

The dealership is saying they can do to solve the problem is to remove the stage kit! I'm so mad! I want it fixed!

 

I would look at the bypass valve vacuum tank first. There is a diaphram inside that my be cracked causing a vaccum leak. This will cause the P2261 to set and posibly the P0101. Second even though you had the wire soldered look for a wire rub where they are shorting out possibly on the AC compressor. Third have them do the smoke test for a boost system leak.

 

Thanks for the input Bill!

Because of people haveing issues/(related problem) with the new MAP sensors I keep putting off buying the stage kit.

 

If you really look into it the problems fall generally into a couple of areas. The new MAP sensors will have a similar "failure rate" to the production sensors. So there are some of those being replaced. There are wiring rub issues which cause the loss of boost sometimes without setting a code. That can be fixed by wire routing and adding the conduit for a "friendly' rub. Third is the actual butt connectors particularly the lower TMAP sensor, which is harder to reach. The butt connectors are designed to be crimped and then heated to seal the connection from road salt and debris. The lower connector is very hard to get a good heating and seal. This is causing a lot of issues and why people are soldering. Soldering does have some issues. The solder joint needs to be protected two ways. First a sleeve that provides stiffness so the solder joint won't fatigue and break. Second a shrink wrap seal so the solder joint won't corrode.

Other issues like above with the vacuum tank diaphram has nothing to do with the stage kit. Without the stage kit you just as likely to have that issue.

Bill

 

i put my own stage kit in, just the 3 bar sensors, and keep getting a P0236 code which doesnt pop a cel, but it does restrict me to 5psi or less....very very very annoying!!

im gunna try soldering the lower pipe connections, and zip tie'n up away from stuff, and i will try to get it to seat as flush as possible, but they make it hard with only a single screw on one side of the sensor....ugh!

 

I realize that I have already posted here, and mentioned that the dealer simply made my lower charge pipe stay in position by zip tying it, but I am now waiting for my new ZZP lower charge piping to arrive and am having the dealer replace the stock lower pipe with it (under warranty)...the dealer was actually very helpful, they're repaying me the amount of money it would have cost for the stock lower piping, so all in all I will have spent about $90 for some new charge piping from ZZP.

 

Damn....you got a cool ass dealer....wish i was closes to it

 

i also have the zzp cold pipe
took mine off yesterday and pulled the sensor, it had some oil on it so i cleaned it off and out of the pipe
then put it back on the ppipe and got it as flush as i possibly could and put it back on the car
so far no issues yet!!