Lowering Springs and Camber?
Lowering Springs and Camber?
If you have been following my experience, I have added some performance mods and appearance mods to my new Cobalt SS/TC. Click on my signature to check it out if she is new to you.
Pretty much done for now, except for the alignment. With the rear acting like a straight axle, camber is not an issue. The front is where I have a problem. There seems to be no camber adjustment.
I have searched the "how to guide" forum and found little dealing with the alignment. Found a few "how to install springs" threads. Is there a consensus method of getting some of that camber back? The strut bolts looks very tight, so I imagine the Ingalls front bolts don't work.
How to we align the front end after lowering the car, specifically adding a camber adjustment?
Pretty much done for now, except for the alignment. With the rear acting like a straight axle, camber is not an issue. The front is where I have a problem. There seems to be no camber adjustment.
I have searched the "how to guide" forum and found little dealing with the alignment. Found a few "how to install springs" threads. Is there a consensus method of getting some of that camber back? The strut bolts looks very tight, so I imagine the Ingalls front bolts don't work.
How to we align the front end after lowering the car, specifically adding a camber adjustment?
there is no adjustment in the front unless you hog out the spindle and front struts with a carbide burr. WHy would you need adjustment anyway? i've got pedders and my camber is just fine
ps too lazy to read other threads, lol
ps too lazy to read other threads, lol
there is some adjustment there. untill i slammed the **** out of mine, i was always able to get the correct camber without cutting anything. That's just in case you have to, and it's oerfectly fine to do. There are indents, and obvious markings to show you where to cut.
You can buy camber bolts, that's fine, but 95% of the time you can get back into spec with just the available adjustment.
Toe is what i would worry about when lowering the front.
You can buy camber bolts, that's fine, but 95% of the time you can get back into spec with just the available adjustment.
Toe is what i would worry about when lowering the front.
The camber won't wear them that quick.
This is my sisters 3. You can see the negative camber in the back because of being lowered and us not changing the camber links.
The tires don't show any unusual wear on the inside.
This is my sisters 3. You can see the negative camber in the back because of being lowered and us not changing the camber links.
The tires don't show any unusual wear on the inside.
Just curious how lowering the front would affect the toe angle? It doesn't appear to when looking at the suspension, but definitely correct me if I'm wrong. As for camber, it will wear the inner edge of your tire a little quicker, but that negative camber will actually come in useful whenever you turn the steering wheel.
there is some adjustment there. untill i slammed the **** out of mine, i was always able to get the correct camber without cutting anything. That's just in case you have to, and it's oerfectly fine to do. There are indents, and obvious markings to show you where to cut.
You can buy camber bolts, that's fine, but 95% of the time you can get back into spec with just the available adjustment.
Toe is what i would worry about when lowering the front.
You can buy camber bolts, that's fine, but 95% of the time you can get back into spec with just the available adjustment.
Toe is what i would worry about when lowering the front.
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