Hello guys,
I've been searching a lot but it seems very hard to find info about boring and stroking the LNF to be 2.4. Can anyone help me? Basically, I would like to know what kind of internals I need to get to make my T/C 2.4, and if it is even worth it to do it. All I found by searching is that I need the LE5 crank and some custom work for the flywheel. I would love to know what other internals are needed, what size turbo I would need (I have the AutoWerks 55/57 right now, but probably with the 2.4 I could get a bigger one) and if it is worth it to do it.
Thank you for your help guys
Christian

 

Why would you want to?
I'd rather not.
There are better ways to get more horses from this engine.

 

Don't be the first to try it. That's something a shop should do.

 

Would there be any draw backs of sleeving a 2.4 bottom end and using a lnf head? I can only think of more money.

 

Talk to zzp they have a built 2.1 in ryans car

 

this. replace some internals and you've got more power than a fwd car needs

 

someone was talking about doing this a while ago but i don't remember who. i think they were talking with k1 and they were willing to do the crank but it was a minimum order of 3 iirc......at like 1500 a pop. if you had a custom crank built i would think that you could have it modified rather than the flywheel

and if you are doing all that you may as make the whole thing as bullet proof as possible....sleeves....rods...pistons...balance shafts....valve springs....and then somehow address the whole fueling issue

 

We have tested 2.4 and 2.1 liter lnf setups. There are pros and cons, but at this time, it is not very cost effective to run a 2.4 lnf. It would be a very high budget setup which might be tough to justify.

We have run LNFs past 600whp on E85.

 

oh i know but something was done to add more fuel. either your upgraded hpfp or cam or additional injectors?? i remember reading that he is experiencing fuel issues with his current setup so he would have to do something.

 

Ahh, ok. When you said, "somehow" I thought you meant trying to figure out a way to do it. I see now that you meant that he just needs a plan for his particular car. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Should have just bought an Srt-4 so you could get a 2.8l kit.

Seriously though if it was me I would just make it a bullet proof 2.0/2.1L. Esp if the parts are not easily available to buy.

 

Basically, the reason why I was considering a 2.4 is because when I got my car back, it had a lot of power but the turbo is spooling at 4k rpms, and Nick told me that to have more low power it would be best to try to make it 2.4
The first gear is kind of weak, and on every other gear the turbo doesn't spool till 4k. I would just like to have the same power but with the turbo spooling like at 3k. Nick told me to make it 2.4 when I will decide to build the engine, that's why I was asking. I know that I can make a lot of power even with the 2.0, but the story was because of trying to have an earlier spool of about 1000 rpms.
Christian

 

I don't see making it a 2.4l cutting down spool 1000rpm. I see full boost at 4K, are you running a really big turbo? Hot side a/r? Journal/ball bearing?

 

Running a Precision Turbo 55/57

 

Matt, could you give me some info about these two set ups (2.4 and 2.1)? I would love to know the power and the spooling rpm if possible. Also, how can I bring down the spool and keeping the stock displacement? Thank you
Christian

 

Ball or journal bearing? hot side a/r?

 

Nitrous will spool it faster.

 

No, no nitrous. I don't want it. Too much stress for the internals I think.
I believe it is a dual ball bearing. It is the one that comes with the AutoWerks 535hp kit. What does the a/r mean? Sorry, english is not my main language, and I still don't know the meaning of some abbreviations or some technical word.
Christian

 

Nick knows a hell of a lot more than me, but I would have thought a bigger turbo would have been a better choice here also, no?

 

My engine will get built at BYT, regardless if I keep it 2.0 or turn it into a 2.4

 

Bigger like a 58/57 or 62/62 you mean?

 

Dont quote me on this as I do not know the exact definition..i just simply googled it and found this and it seemed to make sense with the little knowledge that i knew...

"The turbine housing A/R (area/radius) ratio is the area (A) of any turbine inlet scroll cross-section divided by the distance from the center of that cross-section to the center of the turbine shaft (R).

What it means in layman's terms is how restrictive (lower number is more restrictive) the housing is....the more restrictive the sooner you can build boost, but then your are also limited in top end because of the restriction.

Conversely, the larger the AR the faster you can spin the motor before the turbo becomes a restirction, but the turbo will also build boost later.

One is not better than the other, you need to size the housings correctly to match the engine and turbine/compressor wheels. A well matched turbo will be spooled (providing some boost) for ~2/3rds of the engine's operating range."

 

I see you have my same turbo. What's your spool?

 

well i have the journal bearing turbo, so it wont be as good as yours. and actually i haven't even had time to check as tuning hasn't been finalized and my snail got salted (sucked a rock or something into it)

 

Well if that's the case I'd look more towards what will let you rev it out farther, or get a better turbo lol.
If you rev it out farther kinda equals out the lag though imo.