Mods Are Almost Ready!!!
Mods Are Almost Ready!!!
So, as I've been stated in a few other threads about the mods I've bought, now it is almost time to install everything. All I need to receive is the turbo kit, which should come next week, And right after new year I should be able to drop off the car for installation.
What's coming in is:
(2009 Black SS)
ENGINE:
- Perf. Autowerks turbo kit Precision 55/57 with modular catless/catted DP
- Catback exhaust (still didn't decide between custom made or Hahn or Treadstone)
- Valve cover red from modernperformance (already installed)
- Hahn intercooler
- NGK coldest iridium sparks
INTERIOR:
- gauge faces from blackcatcustom
- dual bezel cluster pod fron buyhids with autometer c2
- triple pillar pod from zzp with autometer c2
- TWM with aluminum round heavyknob w/redlinegood boot (already installed)
- Sparco grip pedals (already installed)
- Momo carbon pitstop ebrake w/redlinegood boot (already installed but needs a fix)
- Carbon fiber dash trim (to be installed locally here in NY)
- SS floor mats from modernperformance
SUSPENSION AND HANDLING:
- Pedders coilovers
- Eibach front and rear sway bars
- H&R wheel spacers 20mm front and 15mm rear with longer studs
- Toyo Proxes almost new (already on the car when I bought it)
DRIVETRAIN:
- Clutchmaster stage 4
- Clutchmaster flywheel
- TTR engine mount
- Ingalls
- OTTP Stage 2 tranny mounts
- Driveshaftshop level 5 Axle
Can you guys give me an opinion if I bought the right stuff? Is it anything you would add to anyone of these? Thank you, I hope I hear from somebody.
BTW, I'm just looking for suggestions if you guys can help me by telling me something not listed here that you have on your car and you think I should put it on. Because the entire installation will be done by Nick at BackYardTurbo, and nothing in the world will make me change my mind as far as going to a different place.
Thank you all!
Christian
BTW: R1 concept drilled/slotted premium rotors, HP+ pads, stainless steel brakelines from zzp, to be installed in the summer
What's coming in is:
(2009 Black SS)
ENGINE:
- Perf. Autowerks turbo kit Precision 55/57 with modular catless/catted DP
- Catback exhaust (still didn't decide between custom made or Hahn or Treadstone)
- Valve cover red from modernperformance (already installed)
- Hahn intercooler
- NGK coldest iridium sparks
INTERIOR:
- gauge faces from blackcatcustom
- dual bezel cluster pod fron buyhids with autometer c2
- triple pillar pod from zzp with autometer c2
- TWM with aluminum round heavyknob w/redlinegood boot (already installed)
- Sparco grip pedals (already installed)
- Momo carbon pitstop ebrake w/redlinegood boot (already installed but needs a fix)
- Carbon fiber dash trim (to be installed locally here in NY)
- SS floor mats from modernperformance
SUSPENSION AND HANDLING:
- Pedders coilovers
- Eibach front and rear sway bars
- H&R wheel spacers 20mm front and 15mm rear with longer studs
- Toyo Proxes almost new (already on the car when I bought it)
DRIVETRAIN:
- Clutchmaster stage 4
- Clutchmaster flywheel
- TTR engine mount
- Ingalls
- OTTP Stage 2 tranny mounts
- Driveshaftshop level 5 Axle
Can you guys give me an opinion if I bought the right stuff? Is it anything you would add to anyone of these? Thank you, I hope I hear from somebody.
BTW, I'm just looking for suggestions if you guys can help me by telling me something not listed here that you have on your car and you think I should put it on. Because the entire installation will be done by Nick at BackYardTurbo, and nothing in the world will make me change my mind as far as going to a different place.
Thank you all!
Christian
BTW: R1 concept drilled/slotted premium rotors, HP+ pads, stainless steel brakelines from zzp, to be installed in the summer
Last edited by AyrtonSenna; Dec 25, 2010 at 02:09 AM. Reason: correction
And I would like to thank BYT*SS*TURBO for helping me so far, and I would like also to thank mkriebs for answering my endless questions and doubts, that's what make a company being a great company.
if you havent bought the sway bars yet dont buy the eibachs...the front bar is too big for tihs car. leave the stock one alone and get a powell hardcore bar or if your plan on more street the track get the street bar. let me know i can set you up with his bar.
i would assume that he is and byt should know that. we recirculated mine.
i would assume that he is and byt should know that. we recirculated mine.
Last edited by whyyoumadson?; Dec 25, 2010 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
if you havent bought the sway bars yet dont buy the eibachs...the front bar is too big for tihs car. leave the stock one alone and get a powell hardcore bar or if your plan on more street the track get the street bar. let me know i can set you up with his bar.
i would assume that he is and byt should know that. we recirculated mine.
i would assume that he is and byt should know that. we recirculated mine.
they suck lol and you dont need a front on this car i went to redline time attack back in nov and the instructor drove my car and said 40lbs less stiffer rear shocks and bigger rear swaybar and this car would be so much better...so im doing cf hood and trunk and gonna take out the rear seat and all of trunk when i go to track and get hardcore rear sway and eventually coilovers just dunno what brand yet
im a 100% positive. john powell is a personal friend of mine and has done a ton of testing with the lnf cars. you need to understand that the lnf suspension is almost completely different then the lsj and base model cars. the front bar is big plenty on both ss cars. 33mm up front on the lnf is just fine with a 1.25" hardcore bar or 1.00" street bar.
im a 100% positive. john powell is a personal friend of mine and has done a ton of testing with the lnf cars. you need to understand that the lnf suspension is almost completely different then the lsj and base model cars. the front bar is big plenty on both ss cars. 33mm up front on the lnf is just fine with a 1.25" hardcore bar or 1.00" street bar.
Also, I remember the eibach front bar replaced the factory one, but the rear one didn't, it was just installed leaving the factory one on. Eventually if I can't cancel the order, is it correct in the rear to leave the factory sway bar plus the eibach, or the factory one should be removed after installing the eibach?
Also, it is only a matter of time, probably before the end of the winter I will buy from you that beautiful triple dash board pod.
Last edited by AyrtonSenna; Dec 25, 2010 at 08:34 PM. Reason: correction
I need to ask: what is the real beefit of the sway bars? Can you really feel the difference? Because when I've installed the eibach on my other SS, I've installed them together with the eibach springs and Koni struts at the same time, so I felt a nice difference but maybe it was better to install one thing at a time to really feel the (eventual) change.
i dont have one yet but david hbss/tc had one on his car and he said it works great it stiffens up the rear and brings around the car better and faster if your gonna do roadracing/autocross its definately something you want to do
i had the ottp hardcore bar and it made my car oversteer... current set up is no front sway bar and it handles like its on rails(2.2l w/ b&g c/o) btw its for sale 200 shipped had it on long enough to go down the block to get a mt.dew and took it off once i got back
Here's how swaybars for our cars work:
Front:
Larger = More Understeer
Smaller = More Oversteer
Rear (opposite of front):
Larger = More Oversteer
Smaller = More Understeer
Fun Fact: I was told by Powell Raceshop a while back that at one point, the racing Cobalts didn't even use a front swaybar at all!
I love my mild/street OTTP bar. It made the car very neutral at the limit with my Pedders coilovers.
Being a FWD vehicle, understeer/plowing is a problem we typically face. You would therefore want less front bar and more back bar to give you a more neutral turning tendency or to create the oversteer tendency that some want. The front bar must be removed and/or replaced if you're going to do something with it. The rear bar is a simple 5min bolt-on addition. Just jack the back up and bolt into the bottom.
Hope that helps. Merry Christmas!
Front:
Larger = More Understeer
Smaller = More Oversteer
Rear (opposite of front):
Larger = More Oversteer
Smaller = More Understeer
Fun Fact: I was told by Powell Raceshop a while back that at one point, the racing Cobalts didn't even use a front swaybar at all!
I love my mild/street OTTP bar. It made the car very neutral at the limit with my Pedders coilovers.
Being a FWD vehicle, understeer/plowing is a problem we typically face. You would therefore want less front bar and more back bar to give you a more neutral turning tendency or to create the oversteer tendency that some want. The front bar must be removed and/or replaced if you're going to do something with it. The rear bar is a simple 5min bolt-on addition. Just jack the back up and bolt into the bottom.
Hope that helps. Merry Christmas!
Last edited by Stamina; Dec 26, 2010 at 02:47 AM.
Here's how swaybars for our cars work:
Front:
Larger = More Understeer
Smaller = More Oversteer
Rear (opposite of front):
Larger = More Oversteer
Smaller = More Understeer
Fun Fact: I was told by Powell Raceshop a while back that at one point, the racing Cobalts didn't even use a front swaybar at all!
I love my mild/street OTTP bar. It made the car very neutral at the limit with my coilovers.
Being a FWD vehicle, understeer/plowing is a problem we typically face. You would therefore want less front bar and more back bar to give you a more neutral turning tendency or to create the oversteer tendency that some want. The front bar must be removed and/or replaced if you're going to do something with it. The rear bar is a simple 5min bolt-on addition. Just jack the back up and bolt into the bottom.
Hope that helps. Merry Christmas!
Front:
Larger = More Understeer
Smaller = More Oversteer
Rear (opposite of front):
Larger = More Oversteer
Smaller = More Understeer
Fun Fact: I was told by Powell Raceshop a while back that at one point, the racing Cobalts didn't even use a front swaybar at all!
I love my mild/street OTTP bar. It made the car very neutral at the limit with my coilovers.
Being a FWD vehicle, understeer/plowing is a problem we typically face. You would therefore want less front bar and more back bar to give you a more neutral turning tendency or to create the oversteer tendency that some want. The front bar must be removed and/or replaced if you're going to do something with it. The rear bar is a simple 5min bolt-on addition. Just jack the back up and bolt into the bottom.
Hope that helps. Merry Christmas!
Honestly, I wouldn't replace it at all. I'd leave the front alone and only do what you're wanting by messing with the rear bar size.
The front one is a swap. The back one is an add-on. So any bar you bought for the front would mean that the stock front would have to come out and the one you bought would go in its place.
Ask Powell Raceshop. They know suspension inside and out for this car, and did the work for the Time Attack Cobalts. They'd be able to give you the best guidance possible based on your end goals. They're very knowlegeable, and were very friendly and helpful when I had questions. OTTP too, for that matter. They even spent a couple hours talking suspension setup options with me after hours one time.
The front one is a swap. The back one is an add-on. So any bar you bought for the front would mean that the stock front would have to come out and the one you bought would go in its place.
Ask Powell Raceshop. They know suspension inside and out for this car, and did the work for the Time Attack Cobalts. They'd be able to give you the best guidance possible based on your end goals. They're very knowlegeable, and were very friendly and helpful when I had questions. OTTP too, for that matter. They even spent a couple hours talking suspension setup options with me after hours one time.
Last edited by Stamina; Dec 26, 2010 at 02:51 AM.


