My "Buy a LNF they said..." Problem/Build Thread.
#251
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Join Date: 06-25-07
Location: Kissimmee, Fl
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I'm betting all of those codes are a result of the junky MAF extension.
You shouldn't see any of them once you have a better MAF extension. If you do see anything it'll be a too lean at idle code which can be fixed via MAF calibration in HPT.
The O2 may even be caused by the MAF as well honestly.
You shouldn't see any of them once you have a better MAF extension. If you do see anything it'll be a too lean at idle code which can be fixed via MAF calibration in HPT.
The O2 may even be caused by the MAF as well honestly.
#253
If the new MAF extension seems to have the same problems then I will buy a new OEM connector and pig rail and just cut and soldier.
I want to make sure it's right so term can tune more. Car does this weird boost drop and then jerks back. Like it will build 7psi, hiccup, drop to 3psi, and then slam boost and spoke up to 10psi and climb. It's weird. Like it lost signals for a second then found them and tried to recover.
I want to make sure it's right so term can tune more. Car does this weird boost drop and then jerks back. Like it will build 7psi, hiccup, drop to 3psi, and then slam boost and spoke up to 10psi and climb. It's weird. Like it lost signals for a second then found them and tried to recover.
#255
Idk what you are talking about :ninja:
Still awaiting the ZZP harness.
Hopefully that clears it up.
If not next step is pulling the MAF and cleaning it.
Last step will be to put it back in the intake and see if it is still reading high.
Replacement is the last step.
This is happening because the MAF maxed out and freaked out, so it shut itself down. Thank you Term!
Still awaiting the ZZP harness.
Hopefully that clears it up.
If not next step is pulling the MAF and cleaning it.
Last step will be to put it back in the intake and see if it is still reading high.
Replacement is the last step.
If the new MAF extension seems to have the same problems then I will buy a new OEM connector and pig rail and just cut and soldier.
I want to make sure it's right so term can tune more. Car does this weird boost drop and then jerks back. Like it will build 7psi, hiccup, drop to 3psi, and then slam boost and spoke up to 10psi and climb. It's weird. Like it lost signals for a second then found them and tried to recover.
I want to make sure it's right so term can tune more. Car does this weird boost drop and then jerks back. Like it will build 7psi, hiccup, drop to 3psi, and then slam boost and spoke up to 10psi and climb. It's weird. Like it lost signals for a second then found them and tried to recover.
Last edited by blueLNFftw; 01-07-2015 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#256
Zzp harness acquired.
I need quality t bolts that are not going to strip. My clamps are stripping out. I think that is another reason the maf keeps failing; too much flow.
Also. How many bolts hold on a wheel bearing? 3!
Original owner assumes one would work! Not.
I need quality t bolts that are not going to strip. My clamps are stripping out. I think that is another reason the maf keeps failing; too much flow.
Also. How many bolts hold on a wheel bearing? 3!
Original owner assumes one would work! Not.
#261
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Fully bolted, custom tuned, everything.
If you keep it clean and are honest with the buyer you shouldn't have issues. Hell, I took a little extra money and prepped the car for the buyer. New tires and brakes. A cheap investment to avoid. Huge hassle down the road. But even then, car is as is.
People still buy up the old skittles from 2003-2005. Just saying.
#263
Mine sold a month after I posted.
Fully bolted, custom tuned, everything.
If you keep it clean and are honest with the buyer you shouldn't have issues. Hell, I took a little extra money and prepped the car for the buyer. New tires and brakes. A cheap investment to avoid. Huge hassle down the road. But even then, car is as is.
People still buy up the old skittles from 2003-2005. Just saying.
Fully bolted, custom tuned, everything.
If you keep it clean and are honest with the buyer you shouldn't have issues. Hell, I took a little extra money and prepped the car for the buyer. New tires and brakes. A cheap investment to avoid. Huge hassle down the road. But even then, car is as is.
People still buy up the old skittles from 2003-2005. Just saying.
Honesty goes a long way in life.
New MAF harness arrived. Installed today and bought a bunch of ny t-bolts.
Hopefully this clears up my MAF issues so I can get a real tune!
#264
I'm about to burn this car to the ground. I keep getting up to 5 degrees of Kr in the mid RPMs. 3-5.5k. I also get it if I am cruising and tap the gas. It spikes and drops. Can't get it at idle or low RPMs. Doesn't have it in the top end. Ideas?
Next, the car randomly decides to cut boost. Always shifting into 3rd or right I as start to accel in it. It's like I hit a wall. Before the MAF was failing itself seeing 55lb/min in the 16k cell at 6k rpm because of stripped clamp on the lower cp. (Maf is relocated). I got that all situated and now the car sees 36lb/min in the 10k cell at 6k rpm. It was fine alllll day. No cel. Nothing. Then, again, out of nowhere it straight cut boost soon as I grabbed third and punched it.
No codes either.
Next, the car randomly decides to cut boost. Always shifting into 3rd or right I as start to accel in it. It's like I hit a wall. Before the MAF was failing itself seeing 55lb/min in the 16k cell at 6k rpm because of stripped clamp on the lower cp. (Maf is relocated). I got that all situated and now the car sees 36lb/min in the 10k cell at 6k rpm. It was fine alllll day. No cel. Nothing. Then, again, out of nowhere it straight cut boost soon as I grabbed third and punched it.
No codes either.
#266
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Let Term get your fuel trims dialed in, the frame you have selected the LTFT is at -16.4, with a commanded lambda of 0.89 and an actual lambda of 0.82
Unplug your evap (electrical connector) and go do some logs, once Term gets things dialed in on the MAF freq table, then he can correct the base table after you do a long long log of varied driving trying to hit as many of the cells on the base table as you can.
Unplug your evap (electrical connector) and go do some logs, once Term gets things dialed in on the MAF freq table, then he can correct the base table after you do a long long log of varied driving trying to hit as many of the cells on the base table as you can.
#268
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Its a option, under engine. Get the fuel trims dialed in before you start freaking out to much about mid range knock, the LNF ecu does some crazy stuff (thank you again Bosch). Not sure why the maf is reading 13k, I dont have my hptuners computer with me to see what maf fq I'm at in the top end, only option would be to check the maf wires all the way to the ecu
#269
Its a option, under engine. Get the fuel trims dialed in before you start freaking out to much about mid range knock, the LNF ecu does some crazy stuff (thank you again Bosch). Not sure why the maf is reading 13k, I dont have my hptuners computer with me to see what maf fq I'm at in the top end, only option would be to check the maf wires all the way to the ecu
RPM 6735
Throttle 100%
MAF 30.22lb/min
MAF 9.2k hz
Lambda .88
MAP 220kPa
I have no boost leaks, yet my MAF readings are super high and my MAP reading is also up. Also, the MAF readings in that log aren't typical. When the car does that it cuts boost. If those readings are what show up in 2nd, when I shift to 3rd I am met with no boost at all.
When the car reads normal it will read the following:
RPM 6744
Throttle 100%
MAF 35.86lb/min
MAF 10.3k hz
Lambda .867
MAP 225 kPa
I have used two different MAF extension harnesses and the result is the same. I can't force the car to read the MAF that way either. That is what concerns me; how random the readings just freak out and that nothing replicates it. I was just going to replace the MAF. I would really like to have normal readings on airflow before tuning anything.
#270
I bought a new MAF. It was 45 on prime and OEM.
I failed the maf at 68lb/min and 16.2k htz at 4,000rpm not under wot. The wiring is good. It is also intermittent and seems to be getting more frequent.
I'm guessing it got ruined Laying around my garage for 5 weeks.
I failed the maf at 68lb/min and 16.2k htz at 4,000rpm not under wot. The wiring is good. It is also intermittent and seems to be getting more frequent.
I'm guessing it got ruined Laying around my garage for 5 weeks.
#273
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
If its faulting, just leave it unplugged until the new one shows up. Its a quick and dirty speed density style tune, the ecu will default to the base table (load vs rpm) assuming Term has that set up decently you should be fine for normal driving and even low boost. I'd double check with him before going WOT with it
#275
Good news is that disconnecting the MAF took away a lot of the mid RPM knock. Also, I have released that knock comes in when boost is being built. Soon as the gauge sees more than a couple psi, it starts that false knock pattern. I wonder if I need to take the Forge BPV off, clean and grease it? Maybe it is making enough noise to cause false knock?
The car idles really nice with no MAF as well.
Bad news is that it drives like **** and pegs very lean especially between shifts and accelerating from a stop. I plugged it back in, am going to drive it home, and drive my LSJ tonight and tomorrow.
Amazon overnighted me an ACDelco OEM MAF for $53.00 total. Can't lose.
The car idles really nice with no MAF as well.
Bad news is that it drives like **** and pegs very lean especially between shifts and accelerating from a stop. I plugged it back in, am going to drive it home, and drive my LSJ tonight and tomorrow.
Amazon overnighted me an ACDelco OEM MAF for $53.00 total. Can't lose.