The only time I sent any datalog files to Vince is when we were fine tuning it. He basically told me that I need to find someone that can diagnos the problem correctly and fix it.

As for the MAP sensors.....

I just installed brand new upper and lower TMAP sensors (thought maybe they crapped out).
Before I installed the new sensors...I cleaned them several times with electronics cleaner...seems like it helped some. BUT...I am running a pre-oiled K&N. Would it be a good idea to ditch that and get a AEM or Stock filter?

One thing I notice is that the top TMAP sensor looks oily....everytime I take it out. Figured the catch can would solve that problem....but even from driving it tonight...the upper TMAP sensor has an oily residue on it. Could that be related to the K&N possibily?

BTW, the car has 43,000 miles

 

while a log may be able better diagnose the problem i don't think the tune is the issue. he had the tune and everything was ok and one day it just started acting up.

here is the link on the hhr site....its kinda long but outlines everything he has diagnosed and replaced.

1st Problem with the Stage 1 - Chevy HHR Network

 

the k&n wouldnt cause that. dumb question but you did replace the maps with 3bars right?

i just went back and read the whole thread on hhr.net. so the dealer did solder the lower sensor?

 

The oil residue on the map sensors wouldn't be related to oil on the filter, however over-oiling a k&n can and will effect and/or harm your maf sensor but in most cases there would be a DTC thrown. The oil residue on the map sensors is more likely caused by blow-by or crank case vent and does indeed need to be cleaned periodically but is pretty common in these engines.

As far as the datalogs go, I only suggest this just as a simple (and now-a-days most effective) way to rule out any electronic issues, ie; issues going on with any of the sensors OR conections/wiring to and from the sensors. If all is well in that neck of the woods then you can have an easier time moving onto more mechanical based issues.

 

no no I completely agree. Although it's impossible from our end to say for sure, I also don't think the tune is really the issue here as well. Remember, datalogging is far from being purely a tuning thing, it is very much a diagnostic tool as well.

 

Yeah, the exact sensors that come with the GMS1 are the sensors I replaced. You can buy them through crate engine depot for about $16.00 each.

And yes, the dealer went through and soldiered all of the connections...upper and lower.

 

agreed. wish it was hptuned so someone other than vince could look at a log

do you know anyone with hptuners? if you could log it so someone could look at it, that would help a bunch

 

I don't think so.....


I'll do some checkin to see if anyone around here does....
This car is just stressing me out...putting so much money into it...and I keep getting the same results. I just want it to run like it used to....nothing more. The dealer just got ahold of men and said they would look at it.....but I have no idea what they're going to look at....

 

I'd offer to take a look at it for him if he somehow had access to hptuner or scanxl

 

Quick Question...

I did a boost leak test on the car before and after I install all of my new parts. Before...I had a small leak in the upper IC pipe..so..I replaced it with the ZZP and it fixed the leak.

If the lower (cold side) IC pipe had a crack...or maybe a bad plastic weld....would a boost leak detect it? (would it hiss if there is a leak when under pressure on the cold side?)



Some guys have had similar simptoms...like mine...and ended up having a crack in the lower cold side IC pipe....

 

Should make no difference where the leak is in the charge pipe systems. It would be evident for sure. When did you tune your car? I know this may sound ridiculous but, if you tuned it in summer, it won't run the same on winter fuel, in winter temperatures, and winter rain/snow moisture. Mine runs like **** in rain (I don't get snow here). There is condensation in the pipes, intercooler and such.

On a side note, I don't like to tune trifecta at all. I had a HHR SS auto that Vince could not dial in. I wouldn't use Trifecta anymore at all, unless someone really had a hard on for it. HP tuners is way better. Vince straight up stopped Emailing me back so I could never get an answer from him.

 

When doing a boost leak test....how long should it hold the PSI?

When I did the bosot leak test....it holds....but gradually falls off....is that how it should be?

 

what is gradual? get a spray bottle and fill it half way with water and add a teaspoon of dishsoap in it. spray the soapy water all over the hotside charge piping, ic connections, and coldside piping. if any air is escaping you will be able to see bubbles indicating the leak

 

I did all of that....no leaks with any of those connections.

When gradual...i mean...it takes about 1 mintue for 25 PSI to "leak down" so the gauge reads "0"

 

You can generally hear a leak of any significance. The hiss is unmistakable. Could your wastegate solenoid be bad? Maybe the wastegate actuator?

 

I guess it could be?

I checked the nipple out on the wastegate and all of the vacuum lines....eveything looked fine...no cracks or anything out of the ordinary. Is there another way to check those two units?

 

You can vac test the actuator with a vac handpump, kinda like testing an EGR. The solenoid would just be a replace-and-hope kinda thing.

 

Did you check the welds on the intercooler? There could be a small crack.

 

similar problem. Some how plastic got into my maf.

 

I changed the Intercooler, it's brand new. Did a boost leak test with the new IC....checked out fine.

Keep in mind....my problem started way before I installed ANY aftermarket parts on the car....the only thing I had done to is was the GMS1 and Trifecta tune....other then that....it was 100% stock.

But since I couldn't get it running right...that's when I went ahead and started upgrading and installing better aftermarket parts....meaning switching to metal and getting rid of the crappy factory plastic parts (intercooler, upper IC pipe...ect..)

 

do you have your own trifecta cable? if so have you tried flashing back to the gms1 tune?

 

I have read this entire thread... Can't you just take it to the dealer under warranty..? or no because of the aftermarket parts

 

dealer said no code no fix

 

Wow thats rediculous... Terrible service .. Im pretty stumped

So whats been ruled out is Boost leaks.. The map sensors themselves but not actual connections? , Bpv, Possible Tune, Im stumped here.... Ill ask my master tech tommorow

 

boost leak appears to be ruled out but im not sure....when he does a boost leak test with a tester with a guage all pressure will be gone after about 60 seconds now i don't know if this is normal or not but he says there is no bubbles anywhere from his soapy water.

here is what he has done:

boost leak tested...replaced upper ic pipe and intercooler as well
replaced bypass valve with forge unit
replaced both map sensors
checked wastegate nipple for cracks and both nuts are on the wg rod
ecu reset
and probably more that i am forgetting

funny thing is he as found several issues that actually could have been what is causing the problems and corrected them