08-10 SS Turbocharged General Discussion Discuss the 2008 - 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS Turbocharged. On sale since the second quarter of 2008.

New owner review

Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:06 AM
  #26  
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GMS1 is a great warranty backed performance mod. If you want to upgrade your brakes to better than stock, go see John Powell and bring $$$.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #27  
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upgrade the rotors like I said and stick with the factory pads.

I did the R1Concept slotted premium rotors and they are a great purchase. I feel the slots help with stopping in the rain better since that is a big issue with these cars. I dont know if anyone else got the same notion.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #28  
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heres teh mods you want





















Sorry no photo's of my downpipe, but its a Clear Image Automotive high flow catted 3" stainless steel downpipe. Anyway, thats what you want to do in almost that exact order, lmao. you just choose what you want.

If you want a bigger turbo thats the next step after your bored with 300+ whp. most people on here make between 300whp-330whp and 330trq - 380trq. , throw some Meth into the combo and some have hit 380whp-400whp on stock turbo which is rediculous.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe
upgrade the rotors like I said and stick with the factory pads.

I did the R1Concept slotted premium rotors and they are a great purchase. I feel the slots help with stopping in the rain better since that is a big issue with these cars. I dont know if anyone else got the same notion.
Those rotors are cheap taiwanese junk. They're the same diameter as stock with some crappy slots put in them...less surface area than stock.

Stock or the floaters from Powell.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe
heres teh mods you want


Crap rotors

Has no shift throw reduction on an LNF, a preference of looks, or "bling"

Waste on the stock turbo

K&N intake is a good intake if you have the patience to MAF tune for it

Don't know if you're trying to show off the retros or the hideaplate. Sticker plate>hide a plate

So...get rid of the 10 row intercooler for another 10 row intercooler...

Sorry no photo's of my downpipe, but its a Clear Image Automotive high flow catted 3" stainless steel downpipe. Anyway, thats what you want to do in almost that exact order, lmao. you just choose what you want.

If you want a bigger turbo thats the next step after your bored with 300+ whp. most people on here make between 300whp-330whp and 330trq - 380trq. , throw some Meth into the combo and some have hit 380whp-400whp on stock turbo which is rediculous.
That and you can get more than 30x whp out of the stock turbo easily with someone who knows a little something with HPT, without meth. A catted aftermarket downpipe will still fail you for emissions anywhere that checks for it.

Food for thought.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:43 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by steddy2112
That and you can get more than 30x whp out of the stock turbo easily with someone who knows a little something with HPT, without meth. A catted aftermarket downpipe will still fail you for emissions anywhere that checks for it.

Food for thought.
a catted DP will fail? how so? No CEL for it. Isnt that all they do now a days? nobodys gonna look under the car. :/ right?

Anyways to rebuttle your counter.... intake isnt tuned for... runs fine, shifter is bling yes, BPV isnt a waste if your diaphram fails at 20+ psi, that 10 row intercooler has more volume and the upgrade is what I stated before, cast endtanks, showing off the projectors (they are a great upgrade for the headlights without being too ricey about it). Explain why the brakes are crap? They are holding up a hell of alot better than the factory rotors, not to mention they are the same stupid thing you can get from any other brake company out there so how are they crap and none of the others are?
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe
a catted DP will fail? how so? No CEL for it. Isnt that all they do now a days? nobodys gonna look under the car. :/ right?
Dude, you're not allowed to touch ANYTHING cat wise.

That's Federally mandated crap.

Keep your stocker for emissions testing, and a catless for play time.

My car catless is quieter than stock idling right now.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by steddy2112
Dude, you're not allowed to touch ANYTHING cat wise.

That's Federally mandated crap.

Keep your stocker for emissions testing, and a catless for play time.

My car catless is quieter than stock idling right now.
yeah I got the stocker... I didnt think when I ordered the catted... I know I should have when catless at the time.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe
a catted DP will fail? how so? No CEL for it. Isnt that all they do now a days? nobodys gonna look under the car. :/ right?

Anyways to rebuttle your counter.... intake isnt tuned for... runs fine, shifter is bling yes, BPV isnt a waste if your diaphram fails at 20+ psi, that 10 row intercooler has more volume and the upgrade is what I stated before, cast endtanks, showing off the projectors (they are a great upgrade for the headlights without being too ricey about it). Explain why the brakes are crap? They are holding up a hell of alot better than the factory rotors, not to mention they are the same stupid thing you can get from any other brake company out there so how are they crap and none of the others are?
Runs fine as in it runs, but just because it runs doesn't mean it's fine. I had to adjust the MAF about 10% when I was still on the stock turbo

I ran for 35k miles at 22-24 psi without ONE SINGLE ISSUE with the BPV and if I never swapped to the 2871r, I would still have it

Volume isn't the end all/tell all with intercoolers, if you have more volume, and the same amount of bars you get more pressure drop along with less fin efficiency(usually)

Never had an issue with the stockers doing track days...and someone offers these:



Basically the only rotors that are worth money over the stock rotors. The stock ones had warping issues on the first run of 08's within a certain VIN range, if you're warping stock rotors, PEBSWADS
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by steddy2112
Runs fine as in it runs, but just because it runs doesn't mean it's fine. I had to adjust the MAF about 10% when I was still on the stock turbo

I ran for 35k miles at 22-24 psi without ONE SINGLE ISSUE with the BPV and if I never swapped to the 2871r, I would still have it

Volume isn't the end all/tell all with intercoolers, if you have more volume, and the same amount of bars you get more pressure drop along with less fin efficiency(usually)

Never had an issue with the stockers doing track days...and someone offers these:



Basically the only rotors that are worth money over the stock rotors. The stock ones had warping issues on the first run of 08's within a certain VIN range, if you're warping stock rotors, PEBSWADS
The intake is fine in that my Lambda, AFR, LTFTs, and STFTs are within factory spec and run great. Never had an issue with this intake. I was the one that pointed out rotating the filter actually messes with the fuel trims and can adjust them which is a wierd phenomena which I think only 30% of the LNF owners are here are still skeptical about.

The Intercooler volume is only about 60 sq. inches bigger (600sq. in vs 548 sq. in.), like I said the idea was to remove the pastic endtanks out of the equation + condensation bar.
The rotors I posted are just a higher grade of rotor over the factory rotors.. g3800 vs g3500.. It means they are more durable and last longer and are less prone to scoring.
The Forge piece is just a nice aftermarket BPV.

If you didnt notice I mentioned in one of my posts "these are the parts you want and in this order, but you can get what ever brand you like"

I meant that by "choose what you want".. in no way am I trying to promote someone over another one. If I was doing that I'd say go with ZZP stuff, Im still iffy on there intercooler... No IC should hange below the bumper.

Somehow I have the feeling your getting butthurt because I showed pics of specific pieces and name brands.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe
The intake is fine in that my Lambda, AFR, LTFTs, and STFTs are within factory spec and run great. Never had an issue with this intake. I was the one that pointed out rotating the filter actually messes with the fuel trims and can adjust them which is a wierd phenomena which I think only 30% of the LNF owners are here are still skeptical about.

The Intercooler volume is only about 60 sq. inches bigger (600sq. in vs 548 sq. in.), like I said the idea was to remove the pastic endtanks out of the equation + condensation bar.
The rotors I posted are just a higher grade of rotor over the factory rotors.. g3800 vs g3500.. It means they are more durable and last longer and are less prone to scoring.
The Forge piece is just a nice aftermarket BPV.

If you didnt notice I mentioned in one of my posts "these are the parts you want and in this order, but you can get what ever brand you like"

I meant that by "choose what you want".. in no way am I trying to promote someone over another one. If I was doing that I'd say go with ZZP stuff, Im still iffy on there intercooler... No IC should hange below the bumper.

Somehow I have the feeling your getting butthurt because I showed pics of specific pieces and name brands.
No butthurt here at all

Tired of the "OEM is crap" mantra flying around here.

Again track days, lots of boost and timing, and more than plenty high way abuse and my stock endtanks were FINE.

The stock parts on these cars are meant to last 5 yrs/100k miles and there's plenty of proof out there that they last even when you turn the wick up on them. Most of the problems on this site are created by user error and people are always looking to blame someone or something else for messing their own **** up.

I have plenty of aftermarket parts on my own car, but they are NOT for the sake of them being aftermarket like most people around here do.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
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Lol.. besides these 2 arguing.. grats on the car purchase and if I were you, I'd get a custom tune rather than GMS1.. I thought about that when I got my car as well, and I'm glad I never did. I can pull on a GmS1 like it's sitting still, and my car doesn't smoke at WoT lol... with HpT it did, but that was cuz the guy wasn't exp'd with these cars(it's important to get a tuner who knows wtf he's doing lol). As for guys bashing the Cobalt's, it really just comes down to whether or not u got a good one, and/or whether you give a **** about taking care of it or not, or a combination of the two. I've had mine 2 years, and the only real problem I had was with the rear brakes, and make sure you don't over-rev it lol. Other than that, it hauls ass, gets great gas mileage, and is fun as **** to drive.
Nice Vette btw, and ya, there's alot of love for C6's on this site
Welcome dude!
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by steddy2112
Whats with the ring around the rotor?
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:26 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by guitarenvy
Whats with the ring around the rotor?
Are you referring to the black ring? That's not a ring. It's a 2 piece rotor. The rotor disc is one piece, and the entire center portion is a separate piece. The center is called the rotor hat, and in this picture, you can see that it's either been anti-seized or the anodizing changed color.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by guitarenvy
Whats with the ring around the rotor?
How to Replace Brembo Floating Rotors
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
Are you referring to the black ring? That's not a ring. It's a 2 piece rotor. The rotor disc is one piece, and the entire center portion is a separate piece. The center is called the rotor hat, and in this picture, you can see that it's either been anti-seized or the anodizing changed color.
Funny story actually...

The hats were powder coated and a wheel stud broke...and long story short I almost ended up a dead Steddy

When the wheels studs were replaced, the powdercoat was already pwnt, so it was brake cleaned off(4gr8justis)
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #42  
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If you haven't already, you should get 2 stock studs. The coating on them will last longer than the 2 you put in, plus I prefer having the unthreaded ends. How'd you snap them? Too loose, or gun?
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by na2boost
The build quality posts are kind of confusing me. Is it really that bad, or just worse than something like a Honda? The real question is this: can you live with the flaws given that the performance of the car is worth about 1.5 times its price? I can, and I'm betting most of you can too, or else you wouldn't still have the car.
Let me clarify... the engine is great, the tranny is great, the suspension is great.. great build quailty... the fit/finish of everything else is garbage.. from the headlights sitting flush with thebumper, to the doors, to the hvac controls and the panels. Yes it's an eco box, and no the honda isn't better the new civic is a pos of ****.. actually anything after 2000 is garbage...and the honda has it's on slew of problems like there POS electronic thorttle which is just as bad as bmw's

and about gms1.. I like it a lotss.. I didn't even bother solidering the connectors just spliced and cliped... have had it like that for 20,000km's and 1000+km's of track use.. never had a problem

It's a great mod to keep your warranty, is't the best tune no.. but the only tune that without a doubt covers your whole car if engine goes kaboom...
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #44  
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I love how you guys already have a list of mods for me!? It's a damn addiction, Jesus, can you smell it on me?

I've done my homework, already ordered the GMS1 kit with the plug and play harnesses from crate engine depot. Also have a forge bypass valve on the way (read all about the green vs. yellow springs).

I know I could get more out of a custom tune, but when you have a car with an engine (LS7) that is notorious for exploding and having warranties denied for air fresheners, makes you a little nervous.

Originally Posted by G Speed
Let me clarify... the engine is great, the tranny is great, the suspension is great.. great build quailty... the fit/finish of everything else is garbage.
So it IS just like the Z06!? Actually, this is sad, but I think I like the RPD better than the HUD in the Z and the pioneer speakers in the Cobalt blow away the base radio in the C6.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by na2boost
So it IS just like the Z06!? Actually, this is sad, but I think I like the RPD better than the HUD in the Z and the pioneer speakers in the Cobalt blow away the base radio in the C6.
We actually have track friendly brakes, unlike the Z06 :P I lurk C6 forums because I ponder about getting one as a track car after the C7 comes out.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:32 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by steddy2112
Those rotors are cheap taiwanese junk. They're the same diameter as stock with some crappy slots put in them...less surface area than stock.

Stock or the floaters from Powell.
Please OP listen to this man. LEAVE THE STOCK ROTORS ON. I will never understand people's needs to change things that don't need changed.

THE HAWK HPS PADS ARE ******* GARBAGE. CHEAP GARBAGE. If you want 15-20% more stopping power, put Hoosier A6s on the car, because the limitations to the car stopping quicker are the tires, as is the case with most cars. There is zero reason to do anything to the brakes on a street car (I am speaking of the SS/TC), or most of the cars that see a track (again, the SS/TC) every once in a while. I was a cheap ass and bought the Hawks. 5-6 laps at Nelson's Ledges (easy track on brakes), and no brakes.

Unless you buy expensive floating rotors that are a waste of money to 99% of the enthusiast community, you are NOT "upgrading". Taking material away with useless, stupid, ricetastic slots and holes do not help braking performance, unless driving through mud is in your plans for your car.

And of course you lay waste to AMGs and M6s in your Z06, it has 505hp and weighs under 3200 lbs, why wouldn't you? People have run 10s in C6 Z06s bone stock, it is a tremendously fast car from the factory.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
We actually have track friendly brakes, unlike the Z06 :P I lurk C6 forums because I ponder about getting one as a track car after the C7 comes out.
Yeah, the Z06 has its weaknesses. OE shocks are terrible; DRM Bilsteins (custom valved) are a must have for the track or street. Completely gets rid of the car's tendency to crash over bumps (which will put you sideways in the throttle at high speed). It's a really painful car to take out in populated areas too. The chassis stiffness, the rock chips, pot holes, Jesus, it's like driving a race car on a gravel road in WV.

Are you waiting for the C7 because of the potential price drop on C6s? Only bad thing is that since GM brutally cut production of the Z06 over the last two years, the used ones are getting snatched up, prices are supposedly going up a little, and people like me are holding on to the newer models (09+) because it may be the last NA 427 engine that GM ever makes. You probably don't want to buy an 06 when the C7 comes out; I wouldn't, could have had the **** beaten out of it by two or three people.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by na2boost
Yeah, the Z06 has its weaknesses. OE shocks are terrible; DRM Bilsteins (custom valved) are a must have for the track or street. Completely gets rid of the car's tendency to crash over bumps (which will put you sideways in the throttle at high speed). It's a really painful car to take out in populated areas too. The chassis stiffness, the rock chips, pot holes, Jesus, it's like driving a race car on a gravel road in WV.

Are you waiting for the C7 because of the potential price drop on C6s? Only bad thing is that since GM brutally cut production of the Z06 over the last two years, the used ones are getting snatched up, prices are supposedly going up a little, and people like me are holding on to the newer models (09+) because it may be the last NA 427 engine that GM ever makes. You probably don't want to buy an 06 when the C7 comes out; I wouldn't, could have had the **** beaten out of it by two or three people.
No, I would get 09+ due to the larger oil sump. I prefer the Z06, but might settle with the GS, which would make putting in a bar/cage easier since the chassis is steel.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:51 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Mark Aubele
Please OP listen to this man. LEAVE THE STOCK ROTORS ON. I will never understand people's needs to change things that don't need changed.

THE HAWK HPS PADS ARE ******* GARBAGE. CHEAP GARBAGE. If you want 15-20% more stopping power, put Hoosier A6s on the car, because the limitations to the car stopping quicker are the tires, as is the case with most cars. There is zero reason to do anything to the brakes on a street car (I am speaking of the SS/TC), or most of the cars that see a track (again, the SS/TC) every once in a while. I was a cheap ass and bought the Hawks. 5-6 laps at Nelson's Ledges (easy track on brakes), and no brakes.

Unless you buy expensive floating rotors that are a waste of money to 99% of the enthusiast community, you are NOT "upgrading". Taking material away with useless, stupid, ricetastic slots and holes do not help braking performance, unless driving through mud is in your plans for your car.

And of course you lay waste to AMGs and M6s in your Z06, it has 505hp and weighs under 3200 lbs, why wouldn't you? People have run 10s in C6 Z06s bone stock, it is a tremendously fast car from the factory.
Woah there. I don't have any rotors on order. Only thing I bought brake wise are the hawks, which I'm sending back after talking to you guys.

Just a heads up, a Z06 laying waste to people is not a given. Think of the GT-R and ease of driving, the Z06 is basically the opposite. If you screw up the steering input by a millimeter turn of the wheel at significant throttle, you can die.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 09:54 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
No, I would get 09+ due to the larger oil sump. I prefer the Z06, but might settle with the GS, which would make putting in a bar/cage easier since the chassis is steel.
That's exactly why I got an 09. Don't do it man, if your heart wants the Z, wait for it. I already made that mistake, had an 08 LS3 coupe. I enjoyed it, and it's a great car, but the itch NEVER went away. Ended up taking a nasty loss on the LS3.

EDIT: granted, the 08 obviously didn't have the GS brakes or widebody, but it did weigh less and had the same power.
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