1) how long should I wait before I can actually see what the car has in it? I have been playing around a little here and there but I want it to break in right. ( i'm talking about full on full throttle shifts and stuff like that.
2) with it being a turbo car do I need to run the car before shutting it off like a diesel truck to cool off the turbo?
3) what is the top speed on this thing? I had it to 100mph and it was still pulling hard and going faster.
4) can I get the gm performance intake for it I have 30 day discount from the dealer on gm parts or will it not fit a turbo car?
5) is the blue lightning interior panels any good pics would be great?
6) I asked the dealer if the car needs premium and the sales guy said no but in the tank cover it says premium reccomended I went ahead and filled up with premium anyway as its only about 5 bucks extra a tank.
7) why are the brakes so dusty on it they are already turning my wheels black and I only have 250 miles on the car.

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

i'm thinking at least 1000miles maybe more for break in. A turbo timer might be a good idea to allow the turbo to cool down. Top speed is probably around 150ish. The intake I dont will work for your car. Always use premium. You can use lower, but my thing is if its recommended, then its like that for a reason. Also I'm a firm believer that if your running boos then you should use premium.

oh and brake dust is bad on the ss/sc's as well. Just something you learn to deal with.

 

1.)I waited till I hit the 1500 mile mark, which just happened the other day YAY!
2.)I don't on purpose sometimes I end up sitting in my driveway on my phone with the car still on, but I let it warm up a bit in the morning when I start it up.
3.)I hear 155ish
4.)I don't believe the GMP intake applies to the ss/tc
5.)No...don't do any of that interior stuff
6.)Put premium unless you want it to run like **** with a nice loud knock
7.)That's just how they are, hose them down really well when you wash them.

 

1) you can beat the **** out of it from day 1. That rule was for back in the day when tolerances in engine building weren't as tight as they are today.

2) You can if you want but it is not required. I would if it were mine if that helps.

3) It should be limited at about 158.

4) No GMPP Parts are out for the Cobalt LNF. Yet...

5) They look ricey

6) Only premium.

7) The brakes will be dusty. It is a performance car and one of the trade offs for shorter braking distance is more brake dust. Just wash her once a week and it'll never bug you.

 

Cool does any one have any complaints about their car and if so if there a simple fix for that problem.

 

truth.

you don't need a turbo timer until you start upgrading and pumping up the boost, it would serve no purpose in it's present stock configuration. and PLEASE PUT PREMIUM only in the car.

 

I figured it need premium because my s/c truck needs premium I was just checking to be absolutely sure.

 

1) Wait the 500 miles it recommends in the manual and the 200 for hard braking...when it doubt, do what it recommends in the manual.
2) As long as you are not going from super hard driving to shutting it off, the turbo should be cooled down. If you are driving it down the road, pull into your driveway, and turn it off you will be fine...Don't drag race and then stop and shut it off...that is where the overheating could start.
3) I heard 160 with the low wing and 155 with the high wing.
4) Intake is not for the SS/TC
5) I don't like the blue panels...personal preference.
6) Premium not required. The computer will make adjustments if any knocking occurs. If you want maximum HP, use premium, but for everyday driving regular is fine.
7) The performance brake pads create a lot of dust...even Corvettes suffer this problem (from what I hear). Just have to deal with it and try out some new pads next time to see if other brands are better.

 

wheres blue lightning with the pictures lol

 

lol that will definitely deter you from getting them.

 

run it hard for the first 500 hundred miles to seat the rings for highest compression, but do not shift it hard so the clutch can transfer clutch material on the flywheel(its like beddin in brake pads to new rotors). trust me, glazed over clutch sucks! also after 500-2000 miles i would recommend an oil change with mobil 1

 

If premium was REQUIRED...GM would say so...that is why it says RECOMMENDED. My Dad is a fleet service executive and told me that it would not harm the car, you would just not get maximum performance. The computer recognizes if spark knock occurs and adjusts accordingly.

You might get a knock or two, but the computer will compensate for that and fix itself.

 

Might as well put the good stuff in, it's only about $3 more every time you fill up.

 

I usually use mobil 1 synthetic on all my cars do you see this to be a problem on this car? I also usully run a k&n and I know I read on here a bunch of mixed opinons. Is there any after market parts for the 08 yet such as intake? What is normal for boost? I am seeing in the 14 -15 range.

 

It does REQUIRE a synthetic oil...the oil cap specifies Mobile 1 5W30....use it....

 

Synthetic oil is a must, I hear Mobil 1 is good, haven't changed my oil yet so I'm not even sure what I'm going to use. Check out Hahn, they have the best upgrades for the ss/tc so far. No K&N intake for this car yet, mixed reviews on drop in filters. And 16 is about average as far as boost goes.

 

I am pulling this from another thread...because I'm lazy...

Are you shitting me?!

For premium fuel, don't forget that there is no sensor to "detect" lower grade fuel, there is only a sensor to detect knock. Knocking is BAD. In a pinch you can use 87, but using it on a regular basis means you will likely be hitting knock every time you get hard on the throttle, and then the knock sensor will trigger the timing to be pulled back. This means that every time the knock sensor pulls timing that some knock had to have occurred already for it to detect it. Is it going to blow up? no, but its definitely not helpful to the long term health of the engine. I mean for chrissake, you spent the money on a brand new car and you aren't willing to protect your investment...


Calculate your additional cost per year...it is going to be a $200 difference at most.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ighlight=knock

 

haha ya i hope so
lightning blue trim FTL!!

 

I have 1,500 miles on my car and not a drop of premium has been put in the tank (unless that is what the dealer filled it with on the first tank). I have not experienced any issues.

I'm not positive, but I don't believe that the car acts like there is premium in until a knock and then changes right back. What would be the point of the computer making adjustments?

I'll trust my Dad on this one...he has been a service rep for GM for 26 years...

 

I sure as **** won't trust your dad, he's no engineer...sorry kid...

If you can hear knocking...well you have amazing hearing...

Get someone to datalog your knock retard and then tell me all is fine and dandy...

 

Well he has been making judgments on warranty claims for 26 years...he would know enough to tell me if I was going to do something to my car that will harm it.

Why would GM not say that premium was REQUIRED if it was necessary to not damage your car...

 

So premium and synthetic is a must I figured that but wanted to make sure, is there anything in particular I should watch out for as far as problems? So far you guys have been a huge help, with a new car should I wait like 6 months or something before putting on the first coat of wax? I usually wash my cars every other week and wax once a month the sooner I can get that first coat of wax on it the better.

 

as long as you weed the motor down correctly it will run (without knock) fine. obviously not at peak performance..but why the hell did you buy a boosted car just 2 put reg in.. seriously you dont have 3$ per tank extra in your pocket??service rep and mechanic are 2 different things <--not knocking your pops profession tho just saying not the same

yeah dont do 2nd gear burnouts...long story wich ends up with me pissed...and if your getting a black 1 plan on washing every 3-4 days lol.

 

Right...a service rep knows everything a mechanic does...he just doesn't get under the hood on a daily basis...

I'm not saying I'm against premium fuel...it is fine if you want to put that in every fuel up...however, I'm just saying it is not required...some cars do require it and the car will be damaged if you do not...the Cobalt SS is not one of them...you CAN put it in without damaging the car if you choose.

 

1) It is usually good to wait till about 1000 - 2000 miles before you get on the car hard. I usually wait until the first oil change before I get on a new car hard.

2)You should only need to let it cool after you have been running it under a load. Like it was already said, don't do hard runs then shut the car off. Let it cool for a few minutes.

3)Top speed is drag limited. The fuel cutoff is probably set to 158 like the SS/SC, but the actual drag limited top speed is probably about 140 - 145.

4)I don't think they have a GM performance intake for the turbo cars. It is already got CAI from the factory.

5)Don't know about the interior panels. They look kind of neat but not my thing.

6)The car does not HAVE to have premium, but if you don't run premium you will get knock and the car will run on the low octane map. This really isn't the greatest for the car, not to mention the car's acceleration will be hindered.

7)The brakes are just dusty. My stock brakes would blacken the wheels in no time at all. It just sucks because you have to wash the wheels about every week or two to keep them looking good.