12andy

Canadian Tire

SSlobalt

12andy

Permafried: Per one of John's suggestions, have you been keeping it at 4th gear while on the highway?

I've been using lower gears (3rd @ 60 km/h, 4th @ 100 km/h) since reading this - and the associated - thread, and will keep an eye on the DIC for any changes.

The drone's killing me though (muffler delete)... SERIOUSLY pondering getting the muffler welded back on, lol.

Permafried-

Unless I'm on the 400 series then yes, 4th gear for highway, nothing above 3rd in town (basically 80km/h and below) and always shifting 3500 or a bit more, though the latter I tended to do in the first place regardless (but would occasionally skip a gear like 2nd to 4th).

If you watch the realtime on the DIC, as well as your boost gauge, I can generally keep 6-7L/100km in town if I don't hit red lights (obviously my average isn't this but realtime shows it's possible in a perfect world ) whereas going up one more gear doesn't make any difference whatsoever, short of 5th on the 400s obviously.

Shanedude

My car's life is 80% highway/80kmh road (Which I always do at least 90kph) very little in town driving compared to most other's. And my car rarely runs for less then 10 minute's, it's mostly going at least 1 1/2 hour trips. This is all due to my work and I always average beteen 30-33mpg.

This past spring I was doing 2hour 15 minute trips(4 1/2 total) from My house to Pickering twice everyday for 3 weeks while working a mini shutdown at the nuke plant(354km total per day), and I was driving for time, not mpg. Doing 120-130kph I was getting 31-35mpg. It seemed weird getting as high as 35mpg while I was reving 3000ish for that long of a period so I did a few paper and pen calculations instead of relying on the DIC and it was within .3, pretty damn close. I was always filling up full 94octane(PetroCanada) then hitting DIC reset.

From paragraph above all I have to say is these car's love long distance traveling.

I'd also love to have my car's engine checked out inside with a boroscope for carbon build-up to see the severity compared to other's. Currently 2010 SS/TC @ 80K w/GMS1 since 15k.

-Original owner.
-Mobil1 oil changes every 5k (let it go near 10k couple times)
-70%-91oct 30%-94oct(my town only has 91, but 94 when option is available)
-Mostly highway life.
-Winter driven only one season.
-Never done seafoam.
-Semi-Spirited driver.

rukkee

iTrader: (3)

Well.... finally got around to pulling off my intake and was very happy with the results ..... 47K miles ...seafoam every 4-5K . I cant get the other 2 cyl pics to transfer but they looked the same ..... a very light coat of gray carbon on the botton of the valve and a little build up in the middle of the stem. You can still see shinny metal at the tops of and in other parts of the stem . Car was seafomed 2K miles ago .

BTW trifecta 24PSI for the last 40K 8)

FRQ FLYR

iTrader: (1)

Looks like early and often may be the way to go-that looks pretty clean for an lnf. I'm at the same mileage and oil change intervals with exclusively 93 as well however I've only seafoamed 4 or 5 times.
Fwiw I'll share this: The day after my last seafoaming on a whim I decided to try a small amount (2-3 oz) of ZMAX fuel system treatment in the same manner. Not terribly scientific but I've read up on their formula and claims-specifically regarding carbon breakdown, heat dissipation and of course the "microlubricant layer of protection". Sounds like the ticket for DI intakes/valves however given that I am not a chemist I'll refrain from recommending this just yet lol. Whereas the seafoam generally produces visible smoke in my rearview for 2-3 miles the zmax smoked for 6-8 easily,a day after seafoaming. It was a little disconcerting at first but the car was (and is) running perfectly fine.

rukkee

iTrader: (3)

Mine smokes about the same on seafoam...... I might try ZMax for a change . I know what your talking about being a little nervous when doing this ..... Myself ....including others thought I was crazy for seafoaming my new car with 4K on it lol.

AARON-SS-TC

iTrader: (3)

has anyone ever tried Zmax? They did a month long test on tv the other day and it cleared up 20 years of carbon on a old chevy...

Save fuel in gas and diesel engines, friction reducer, engine lubrication and valve cleaner

FRQ FLYR

iTrader: (1)

ZMAX website mentions it's designed to be carried by engine fluids(oil/gas); I didn't see any info regarding vac induction specific products. I assume Seafoam may have some sort of "foaming agent" to help it clean as well. What I used was a small amount from a bottle designed for a tank of fuel and may have been a little much; hopefully it was dispersed as well as the seafoam. If all that smoke was from deposit removal (and not 2 oz. of zmax or god forbid Mobil 1) then I'm guessing it did some good.

AARON-SS-TC

iTrader: (3)

plus with zmax, it doesnt say to change the oil or spark plugs afterwards either..they did say that removing the plugs and saturating the openings where they go is okay as well...im getting it asap...

Shortbus

Thought I would revive an old thread. I do not have a CEL, I checked for codes and there are none. Currently on the car, zzp catless d/p, k&n Sri, no tune. Car will run fine sometimes then other times hit like 10psi max like the bpv is staying open, I can also hear it doing this. Car is a 08 ss/Tc with 8,000 miles.

tommygun

Great Thread about random P0236 issues. Thanks Everyone for posting good info.

I too have had constant P0236 code set CEL literally twice a month, all of which began roughly 3 weeks after dealer installed GMPP S1. My performance especially here in Palm Springs with avg temp of 95F (100+F from March thru Nov) is roughly 50% of what I had in San Francisco's 50F avg temp... Here in P Springs its like driving a Yugo and obvious the 100+F heat forces computer roll back timing, air fuel and boost, to avoid detonation.

My local dealer cannot find reason for constant P0236's, even went so far to call GMPP for help wherein GMPP recommends changing map sens O-Rings to GMPP's new nitrile based O-Rings thats .008 oversized for very tight map sens seal. It worked for 60days then P0236's started again. One thing dealers never checked was carbon buildup on int valves, so I'm grateful for the good info y'all have posted.

My point for posting..is cleaning, internal cleaning of carbon, why use Seafoam? Rather than full-strength Techron from Chevron stations, not diluted versions at auto parts stores. See my neighbor in SF was Chevron chemist who formulated original Techron, and he told me Techron is 90% Namptha Solvent and 10% aromatic oils for lubrication. Also said apart from water/methanol injection, no other cleaning agent but Namptha proved as effective at removing carbon buildup. For home use my chemist buddy taught me that 16oz of Namptha (gallons cheap at hardware/paint stores) with 2oz of marvel for lubricity in 18-20 gal of gasoline every 5000 miles. Also works fantastic in 4cycle lawn mowers and outdoor power equip where fuel sat & gummed up carburetors.

just a thought, and perhaps an alternative to Seafoam?

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

P0236 is either a bad seal on the O-ring or the wiring to the sensor is wrong. Possibly dirty but it's not that old. You likely need to be rewired. Did you use the harness from CED as suggested on here?

P0236 has nothing to do with intake valve build up.

jadavis

Hey everyone I keep getting the P0236 code. Im running GMST1 sensors with pig tails. Im also running a stage 2 meth kit from snow performance. I have changed the sensors checked all wiring. I have the ZZP inner cooler and lower pipe. Also I have had some boost spikes. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this