That is what I have gone by for a while now.

 

LOL and when did this become the pinnacle for true power?

just sayin

 

Correction factors were 4-5% which is pretty normal. The dynojet I have used was about the same SAE vs STD was about 4-5%. Depends on the conditions.

 

Gear ratio is the same, final drive is different...

 

^^ didn't know that.

mainly based on ignorance of me not researching it.

 

Gives a good overall read on power under the curve and takes most traction and driver skill variables out of the equation. Only problem is the weather conditions, elevation and slope of the roads does make comapring numbers from different areas difficult. Comparing to the stock tune on the same roads, same direction and same day helps. My car ran 8.6 seconds 60-100 stock tune with full boltons. Same day and stretch of hwy in front of my house 22 psi tune ran 4.5 seconds. 24 psi (MBC as adjustable pill) ran 4.3 seconds. Cutting my stock 60-100 time in half made me pretty happy.

 

I understand that, but in all honesty, track times?

Because we all know rolls are for bakers!

Here it my best 60-100 and Nick can verify: 4.4 flat on 20psi

Same tune yielded 12.9 @ 113 (I've ran slower ET with higher trap (highest trap was 115.6x)

 

If you do research on any car...

The highest dyno numbers come from Dynocoms. Period.

 

Lol in getting the sane **** on the sky and solstice forums cause I broke 300whp look me and ssturbo went on the dyno the same day and yes it was recalibrated cause it use to read to high everybody else that day said the dyno was finnaly putting out correct numbers and cars where making what they where suppose to make

 

I still cannot launch this car well to save my life so my 60 ft times would be terrible. I care more about how fast I can pass people if I need to.

 

Going by our 60-100 times, your whp still doesn't make sense. I did 4flat on only 22psi....Just sayin.

I can trap 115+ with a 2.4 60. That makes no difference. With your power you should have no issue doing ~117

 

lol cant beat 30$ 3 pulls

i was happy. owner of the shop said dynocom dynojet whatver. its just all used to have an idea. THEIRS NO EXACT formula that will let you know exactly how much whp twq you got.

 

Any time I see dyno numbers posted from a dynocom, this is EXACTLY what I expect. Over inflated torque numbers and HP that is about 10-15ish higher.

Case in point, here are some examples from some LSx cars:
01 Z28 claims 366rwhp and almost 400rwtq, stock internals... 350-360whp isnt out of the question for a full bolt on car but 400rwtq?!?!?! GTFO... Same car trapped 110 mph.
FWIW, my 01 SS with full exhaust, intake, tune and clutch put down 351/357 and trapped 112+ consistently, in typical AZ weather.... Back east (where this guy lives) you're talking 113-115 traps.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...366-397-a.html


Here's a bolt on GTO making 383rwhp and 411 rwtq... Again, look at the over-inflated torque. HP is about spot on seeing as how my bolt on/tuned 06 put down 381/386. Again, car was trapping 111ish mph... My GTO went 112-113 in cooler AZ weather. 112-115 is about the norm for a bolt on GTO in good air.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...-gto-dyno.html

Glad you've got a baseline man but what everyone is saying is that if you want (almost always) repeatable numbers across the country that you can share, your best bet is a DJ. DJ's dont need to be "calibrated" per say like the dynocom or the MD dyno. You also can't fluff the numbers by entering a different vehicle weight etc. Obviously there are always going to be dyno tricks but the DJ is by far the most "accurate" of the dynos in terms of consistency. Only thing to look out for is STD vs SAE as STD can read a few percent higher.