Hello all!
Looking for some advise on a LNF 2.0L oil cooler. I would like to remove the factory oil cooler, tap and plug the ports. I was wondering will this effect/restrict oil flow? I purchased a billet Adaptor to relocate the oil filter and was going to include a oil cooler off of the billet Adaptor. The reason for blocking off the ports is due to transmission Adaptor interference with the factory cooler in this location.

 

You can run an adapter that allows you to just connect the oil cooler at the factory location, otherwise, you can just plug the ports. The lower model cars didn't come with oil coolers and those ports aren't machined open. One of the ports has a wrist pin-like tube in it... I'm not sure how easy it is to remove, but I'd remove that and then plug the holes left behind - then the setup would be identical to 2.2 and 2.4 blocks that came without oil coolers. I can provide pics, if necessary.

 

What transmission and adapter are you using?

 

Hol' up. I just read the username. You LNF swapped an Opel GT? We're going to need pictures... lots of pictures.

 

Thanks for your feedback. I assume the tube you mentioned is just redirecting the oil flow. If you have photos that would be greatly appreciated!


I still have a long way to go. I have nothing but time! Lol

 

US Marines MP I see! Thanks for your service! My uncle was a drill sergeant in the Marines. My brother retired SGT Major in the Army, Army myself for 4 years.

 

4L65e Trans with a Hughes Adaptor plate

 

You should start a build thread on here if you don't have one elsewhere.

 

I dig the heck out of this build! Sub'd for more progress!

 

So these first two pictures are of an LNF:

The port on the right, you can see the sleeve/tube that I'm talking about.


And this view shows you how it crosses over. I BELIEVE this is the oil feed to the oil filter area. In cars with the oil cooler, this sleeve redirects to the oil cooler first, then it dumps in the second port (left one from the above image) to go through the filter.


Below is a 2.4L that came from the factory without an Oil Cooler. You'll notice the lack of machined ports, as well as the missing sleeve.

 

Also, here's one of the adapters that I was talking about earlier, that should allow you to just run -10AN lines off of the pre-existing oil cooler ports:

https://zzperformance.com/collection...cooler-adapter

As you can see, it really wouldn't be hard to make one of these yourself. I don't know if they'll make these again; I haven't seen them in-stock in quite a while.

 

Thanks for the photos! Have you taken this tube out before? I don’t see where it’s pinned into place anywhere. I wonder if it is pressed in?

 

Thanks for the link on the Adaptor. I have this Adaptor but I am unable to use it due to my trans adapter plate blocking off the hole with the sleeve in it. I didn’t realize it prior to purchasing the -10 an plate. I am wanting to pipe thread and block off the hokes with plugs. Then run a oil filter relocation Adaptor and install a larger oil cooler inline with the filter relocation kit that I purchased.

 

I think it's just pressed in, but I haven't taken one out to know for sure.

If you're just wanting the car for cruising and straight-line speed... you don't need an oil cooler. But if you plan on road racing, you'll need it.

I know ZZP was deleting it from their drag cars a decade ago. I didn't keep up with what they've done since around 2013 or so though.

 

The tube is pretty easy to take out. I tap it to 1/4" pipe and then use an adapter I made that screws into it and then slips on the tip of a small slide hammer. One or two pulls on it takes it out pretty easy. Its not really a press fit but it does have 2 o-rings on it that are typically stuck and require a jolt to break free.

 

I was thinking that it most likely had o rings and pressed in. Thanks for you input on this subject! I appreciate the feedback from everyone!

 

That’s an oil cooler from ottp in the box. I don’t know if they sell them or if it was a one off thing

 

I look into it, Thanks!

 

Problem with running remote oil cooler is getting your oil temps up to operating range

 

If I was you I would run in a less air flow area with a fan on switch since the cooler is in the way

 

This motor already has a factory oil cooler on it so I am deleting it and adding one back in a new location. I would expect that the size I replace it with would come into play at that point.

 

if you let it warm up it’ll be fine