exninja

iTrader: (1)

You're just asking how to remove the lower charge pipe? It's pretty simple. Unplug TMAP sensor, unplug vac line right next to it, undo connection at intercooler, undo connection at throttle body, remove out of the bottom, profit.

But why are you trying to remove the whole pipe if you're just replacing a screw?

nathanls14

The screw snapped inside the pipe due to rust, so i have to drill it out and replace it.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

ooohhhhh, I read MAP and thought MAF. Good luck.

nathanls14

It seems like every year I re-visit this thread. I am at least back to my original problem where the car will "surge" so to speak. Watching the A/F gauge, when surging it will be 12-13 and then it will go in to fuel cut off mode (or appear to anyway) as the A/F drops to 16-18. The car has around 104k miles on it and what I've done is the following:
Evap Purge Solenoid replaced, original went bad
Evap Vent Solenoid replaced (stopped hearing trunk monkey - even after it was replaced though I still NEVER hear it tap)
Changed all 4 coil packs (back on original stock for the time being)
Changed bank 1 O2 sensor, original went bad
Replaced both Cam Solenoids
Replaced MAF (back on original stock for the time being and cleaned this past weekend)
Boost leak tested (this past weekend)
Replaced both MAP sensors (this past weekend)
Soldered connections for MAP sensors (this past weekend)
Seafoamed intake through vacuum line

After replacing and soldering the MAP sensors, the A/F when driving seems to be a lot better than it was before (will hover around 14.7-15.2). The surging only happens under light throttle with minimal boost, if I go 50% or higher on the throttle, it will boost as normal with no surging.

The boost leak test did not turn up any leaks that we could find. But, to make sure I did it correctly, I should still lose pressure due to the valves being open on certain cylinders in the motor correct? It would not hold pressure during the test.

I also purchased a Bluetooth code reader that should arrive tomorrow to hopefully read/log some stuff. I do have a code reader currently that can look at some of the systems and the one interesting thing that I saw this morning is that everything it can read showed ready except the Evap. As I mentioned above, I have not heard the trunk monkey in a few years even after replacing the solenoid. Could this all be caused from that by chance? I am not actually throwing any codes as of this past weekend, prior to that I was throwing all kinds of codes.

One thing that I did not do, after replacing the 2 MAP sensors and cleaning the MAF, was unplugging the battery. Would there be any need for me to do a relearn? I've also been doing some more reading today and saw where another user had issues with the throttle body opening and closing when less than 40% throttle which sounds similar to some extent. Could this also be my issue and is there any way to test that?

nathanls14

Well I was driving to work this morning and it's a nice 60 degrees in Ohio. The car was running at 181 degrees which is normal and I threw a CEL. Hooked up the reader and it read as p0420 and 2 pending codes p0118 and another p0420.

I've replaced the front o2 sensor once already 2 years ago, could it have gone bad again already? Could this be caused by the lean/rich/lean/rich running my car does when it "surges"?

I'll check the connections to the Temp Sensor and check the coolant as well, should I plan to replace the sensor if I do not see any issues?

I also plan to test the ohms for the intake and exhaust solenoids again as mentioned before, even though those have also been replaced. Hopefully my data logging reveals something, I should have the reader today and hopefully can test tonight. Would anyone be willing to work with me on what to log and how to read it as I've never done it before? I am getting tired of throwing $$$ at this stupid thing and am running out of ideas yet again. As a side note, it may just be a placebo, but it seems like I am getting better gas mileage after the little bit of work I did this past weekend (including this morning after throwing those codes).

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Typically with P0118 your coolant temp wouldn't be reading on your dash. Is that the case?

ECT and thermostat need to be checked.

nathanls14

No my temp was reading on my dash still. Interestingly enough, after clearing the codes while leaving work, the car ran 100% fine. No "surging" no nothing on my way home or back and forth to the gas station. But it's done this for years, I think it's fixed because it will run right for a month or 2 and then right back at it. I did some logging yesterday with my OBD2 tool and the torque app so I've attached that. I'm not 100% sure yet what all I am looking at or if anything appears to be out of whack with what was logged. Is there anything else i should look at logging, or that i can take out of the log that is unnecessary?

nathanls14

This log may be a little bit better and more clean, I took it this morning on my way to work. Again, no issues as of yesterday but I do notice that there is a difference in the commanded A/F vs what the actual is. Again, this is the first time I've ever looked at logs so I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking for here.

daveyboy

Thank you for this thread from 2021! Nathan I've had some of these issues over the years as well. My car tends to run just fine under normal conditions but when I go full throttle it loses power and sputters. So mostly I just drive it, or have my kids drive it, without racing it. In hindsight, a pretty good safety measure! Anyhow, I'm keen to try and get this thing running properly. Lately, it has become more difficult in the cold weather. Doesn't start easy and runs rough until it's warm.

I'm going thru the items in this thread to troubleshoot so just wanted to thank you again.

Hope yours ended up running as intended!