400whp with zfr?
03-20-2013, 07:44 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
400whp with zfr?
Is 400whp safely attainable on a stock motor with the zfr with full bolt ons?
Mods that matter include
Zzp catted down pipe
3"cat back
E-Cutout pre cat
Ported and polished intake mani
Injen upper pipe
Treadstone lower pipe
Treadstone intake with k&n filter
Spec 3+ clutch
Zfr
Gms1 so I have the 3 bar sensors
Mods that matter include
Zzp catted down pipe
3"cat back
E-Cutout pre cat
Ported and polished intake mani
Injen upper pipe
Treadstone lower pipe
Treadstone intake with k&n filter
Spec 3+ clutch
Zfr
Gms1 so I have the 3 bar sensors
03-20-2013, 07:53 AM
#6
To people who feel 400whp is safe.
380/400hp is the point in whic the rings them self come unseated and ringlands issues occurr. It's best to find a turbo that has more cfm/ lbs per min so you can have less boost to have that power. So your not creating such a stressful enviorment for the rings. Big reason why the ecos blow when turbo swapped on a stock engine is the amount of boost and of course mistreatment.
So if your going with a Zzp 6758 which is a tiny turbo I recommend a mediocre ramp and ethanol and 22-24lbs unless built.
380/400hp is the point in whic the rings them self come unseated and ringlands issues occurr. It's best to find a turbo that has more cfm/ lbs per min so you can have less boost to have that power. So your not creating such a stressful enviorment for the rings. Big reason why the ecos blow when turbo swapped on a stock engine is the amount of boost and of course mistreatment.
So if your going with a Zzp 6758 which is a tiny turbo I recommend a mediocre ramp and ethanol and 22-24lbs unless built.
03-20-2013, 08:50 AM
#12
To people who feel 400whp is safe.
380/400hp is the point in whic the rings them self come unseated and ringlands issues occurr. It's best to find a turbo that has more cfm/ lbs per min so you can have less boost to have that power. So your not creating such a stressful enviorment for the rings. Big reason why the ecos blow when turbo swapped on a stock engine is the amount of boost and of course mistreatment.
So if your going with a Zzp 6758 which is a tiny turbo I recommend a mediocre ramp and ethanol and 22-24lbs unless built.
380/400hp is the point in whic the rings them self come unseated and ringlands issues occurr. It's best to find a turbo that has more cfm/ lbs per min so you can have less boost to have that power. So your not creating such a stressful enviorment for the rings. Big reason why the ecos blow when turbo swapped on a stock engine is the amount of boost and of course mistreatment.
So if your going with a Zzp 6758 which is a tiny turbo I recommend a mediocre ramp and ethanol and 22-24lbs unless built.
i hit 416whp with 93 with 25psi at 6500rpm . its attainable and safe with good tuning. most of these motors i see come through the shop blown up i can pin point to crappy tuning with all the signs of detonation and when i get the tune out of the car it says it all right there. last one was a trifecta victim running 28psi.
03-20-2013, 09:51 AM
#14
380/400 is where it starts. On the stock pistons, te speratic occurs after much abuse on good amounts of boost.
I've had plenty people 400s + for quite some time now and no issue but they also don't beat the **** out the car and they also datalog often.
380/400is a stopping mark for a stock engine at most or should. Once you start coming above these numbers with repetitive abuse it'll break. Dyno sessions aren't as aggressive then banging gears. Now doing pull after pull and getting the engine heat soaked then yes. But telling people "400+who is safe on a stock bottom end is like saying dont wear a condom when you have sex with a random ugly chick. It will break, sooner or later more then likely sooner. Just because your car didn't blow doesn't mean its safe. I have a guy I tuned at 30k on a stock turbo and is above 100k on the Efr he isn't blown, but he logs for me at least once a month.
..
I've had plenty people 400s + for quite some time now and no issue but they also don't beat the **** out the car and they also datalog often.
380/400is a stopping mark for a stock engine at most or should. Once you start coming above these numbers with repetitive abuse it'll break. Dyno sessions aren't as aggressive then banging gears. Now doing pull after pull and getting the engine heat soaked then yes. But telling people "400+who is safe on a stock bottom end is like saying dont wear a condom when you have sex with a random ugly chick. It will break, sooner or later more then likely sooner. Just because your car didn't blow doesn't mean its safe. I have a guy I tuned at 30k on a stock turbo and is above 100k on the Efr he isn't blown, but he logs for me at least once a month.
..
400 is safe with a proper tune. if your tune sucks say good bye to the motor. i made over 400whp with 2 setups including a 6758. car was daily driven, saw maybe 75-100 dyno passes just during tuning between the 2 setups not counting pulls done at other shops dyno days, then some track use as well. did a leak down test on the motor and it was damn near perfect across the board. seeing no more then 5% on all the cylinders
i hit 416whp with 93 with 25psi at 6500rpm . its attainable and safe with good tuning. most of these motors i see come through the shop blown up i can pin point to crappy tuning with all the signs of detonation and when i get the tune out of the car it says it all right there. last one was a trifecta victim running 28psi.
i hit 416whp with 93 with 25psi at 6500rpm . its attainable and safe with good tuning. most of these motors i see come through the shop blown up i can pin point to crappy tuning with all the signs of detonation and when i get the tune out of the car it says it all right there. last one was a trifecta victim running 28psi.
03-20-2013, 10:14 AM
#15
Senior Member
Is 400whp safely attainable on a stock motor with the zfr with full bolt ons?
Mods that matter include
Zzp catted down pipe
3"cat back
E-Cutout pre cat
Ported and polished intake mani
Injen upper pipe
Treadstone lower pipe
Treadstone intake with k&n filter
Spec 3+ clutch
Zfr
Gms1 so I have the 3 bar sensors
Mods that matter include
Zzp catted down pipe
3"cat back
E-Cutout pre cat
Ported and polished intake mani
Injen upper pipe
Treadstone lower pipe
Treadstone intake with k&n filter
Spec 3+ clutch
Zfr
Gms1 so I have the 3 bar sensors
03-20-2013, 10:15 AM
#16
Senior Member
380/400 is where it starts. On the stock pistons, te speratic occurs after much abuse on good amounts of boost.
I've had plenty people 400s + for quite some time now and no issue but they also don't beat the **** out the car and they also datalog often.
380/400is a stopping mark for a stock engine at most or should. Once you start coming above these numbers with repetitive abuse it'll break. Dyno sessions aren't as aggressive then banging gears. Now doing pull after pull and getting the engine heat soaked then yes. But telling people "400+who is safe on a stock bottom end is like saying dont wear a condom when you have sex with a random ugly chick. It will break, sooner or later more then likely sooner. Just because your car didn't blow doesn't mean its safe. I have a guy I tuned at 30k on a stock turbo and is above 100k on the Efr he isn't blown, but he logs for me at least once a month.
..
I've had plenty people 400s + for quite some time now and no issue but they also don't beat the **** out the car and they also datalog often.
380/400is a stopping mark for a stock engine at most or should. Once you start coming above these numbers with repetitive abuse it'll break. Dyno sessions aren't as aggressive then banging gears. Now doing pull after pull and getting the engine heat soaked then yes. But telling people "400+who is safe on a stock bottom end is like saying dont wear a condom when you have sex with a random ugly chick. It will break, sooner or later more then likely sooner. Just because your car didn't blow doesn't mean its safe. I have a guy I tuned at 30k on a stock turbo and is above 100k on the Efr he isn't blown, but he logs for me at least once a month.
..
where you been at you old salty dog?? lol. When I get back home im gonna throw parts at my issue. hopefully it fix and we can get that 100 oct going.
03-20-2013, 10:26 AM
#17
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If you want 400 is a safer way get a bigger turbo something that don't hit that hard and that low of an rpm. The turbo zzp uses is a turbo that spools real close to stock lnf turbos which is quick and fast. I'd go with a 256 or 259 if I was you. Plus it will keep you from spinning as bad
03-20-2013, 10:39 AM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Tis my dd so not gonna run 100
But I run 94 in it as it is
I already have the zfr so I'm gonna stick with that
But I run 94 in it as it is
If you want 400 is a safer way get a bigger turbo something that don't hit that hard and that low of an rpm. The turbo zzp uses is a turbo that spools real close to stock lnf turbos which is quick and fast. I'd go with a 256 or 259 if I was you. Plus it will keep you from spinning as bad
Last edited by C_A_D88; 03-20-2013 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-20-2013, 10:58 AM
#20
Senior Member
03-20-2013, 11:05 AM
#21
380/400 is where it starts. On the stock pistons, te speratic occurs after much abuse on good amounts of boost.
I've had plenty people 400s + for quite some time now and no issue but they also don't beat the **** out the car and they also datalog often.
380/400is a stopping mark for a stock engine at most or should. Once you start coming above these numbers with repetitive abuse it'll break. Dyno sessions aren't as aggressive then banging gears. Now doing pull after pull and getting the engine heat soaked then yes. But telling people "400+who is safe on a stock bottom end is like saying dont wear a condom when you have sex with a random ugly chick. It will break, sooner or later more then likely sooner. Just because your car didn't blow doesn't mean its safe. I have a guy I tuned at 30k on a stock turbo and is above 100k on the Efr he isn't blown, but he logs for me at least once a month.
..
I've had plenty people 400s + for quite some time now and no issue but they also don't beat the **** out the car and they also datalog often.
380/400is a stopping mark for a stock engine at most or should. Once you start coming above these numbers with repetitive abuse it'll break. Dyno sessions aren't as aggressive then banging gears. Now doing pull after pull and getting the engine heat soaked then yes. But telling people "400+who is safe on a stock bottom end is like saying dont wear a condom when you have sex with a random ugly chick. It will break, sooner or later more then likely sooner. Just because your car didn't blow doesn't mean its safe. I have a guy I tuned at 30k on a stock turbo and is above 100k on the Efr he isn't blown, but he logs for me at least once a month.
..
you make it sound like a built motor is a cure to the issue to someone who drives the car all the time. its not if your driving the car as a daily as the oem is made to do that. sure it can handle more power but they are issues in their own boat and most people dont have a clue how to maintain a forged bottom end nor do they take care of them either and that will sooner or later spell disaster as well. its just like not driving your car can hurt it to.. theres a ton a variables that can come into play
Last edited by Omiotek; 03-20-2013 at 11:12 AM.
03-20-2013, 01:03 PM
#22
like i said 90% of these cars gernade from junk tuning. the last 3 or 4(lnfs) that have been in here are ALL tune related and some have been on the stock turbo. if you know what your doing it will be fine for a long while. not a single motor will last forever idc if its built or not. yeah we didnt push 100 passes in one night but when we were tuning we would normally do multiple passes at a time to get it dialed in through 3 and 4th gear as well. not to mention the fact that i beat the hell out of this car on a daily basis, roll raced, road raced, took it on a couple long trips(1500miles one way) and so forth. the motor held up beyond good as well as the trans.
you make it sound like a built motor is a cure to the issue to someone who drives the car all the time. its not if your driving the car as a daily as the oem is made to do that. sure it can handle more power but they are issues in their own boat and most people dont have a clue how to maintain a forged bottom end nor do they take care of them either and that will sooner or later spell disaster as well. its just like not driving your car can hurt it to.. theres a ton a variables that can come into play
you make it sound like a built motor is a cure to the issue to someone who drives the car all the time. its not if your driving the car as a daily as the oem is made to do that. sure it can handle more power but they are issues in their own boat and most people dont have a clue how to maintain a forged bottom end nor do they take care of them either and that will sooner or later spell disaster as well. its just like not driving your car can hurt it to.. theres a ton a variables that can come into play
Tune is the biggest variable. Then comes the driving and maintenance habits.
03-20-2013, 04:28 PM
#25
You make it sound like the pistons aren't a issue.. While we're at it go throw 35lbs on it and call it a day. Fact, yes a shitty tune and cause damage. Fact, to much boost can cause issues, fact treating a car like **** will cause issues, fact the piston are ****.
If someone is gonna do a turbo build then smartest thing to do is build the engine. Why? Because its smart and isn't idiotic. Waiting for the engine to go is purely stupid. So yes, I do see that as a cure of higher boost on cars along with higher then 400whp. Pistons weren't made to handle 400whp aka 430ish or so chp.
If someone is gonna do a turbo build then smartest thing to do is build the engine. Why? Because its smart and isn't idiotic. Waiting for the engine to go is purely stupid. So yes, I do see that as a cure of higher boost on cars along with higher then 400whp. Pistons weren't made to handle 400whp aka 430ish or so chp.
like i said 90% of these cars gernade from junk tuning. the last 3 or 4(lnfs) that have been in here are ALL tune related and some have been on the stock turbo. if you know what your doing it will be fine for a long while. not a single motor will last forever idc if its built or not. yeah we didnt push 100 passes in one night but when we were tuning we would normally do multiple passes at a time to get it dialed in through 3 and 4th gear as well. not to mention the fact that i beat the hell out of this car on a daily basis, roll raced, road raced, took it on a couple long trips(1500miles one way) and so forth. the motor held up beyond good as well as the trans.
you make it sound like a built motor is a cure to the issue to someone who drives the car all the time. its not if your driving the car as a daily as the oem is made to do that. sure it can handle more power but they are issues in their own boat and most people dont have a clue how to maintain a forged bottom end nor do they take care of them either and that will sooner or later spell disaster as well. its just like not driving your car can hurt it to.. theres a ton a variables that can come into play
you make it sound like a built motor is a cure to the issue to someone who drives the car all the time. its not if your driving the car as a daily as the oem is made to do that. sure it can handle more power but they are issues in their own boat and most people dont have a clue how to maintain a forged bottom end nor do they take care of them either and that will sooner or later spell disaster as well. its just like not driving your car can hurt it to.. theres a ton a variables that can come into play
