2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Anyone try a manual boost controller?...

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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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Anyone try a manual boost controller?...

Personally watched a 2008 black cobalt ss tc with a 3in downpipe and intake and manual boost controller.. (mock up like any other manual boost controller) run a stock 6.0 gto.. I have one laying around but how safe is that. I feel as If it is sketchy..
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:24 PM
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don't touch boost without tuning. Will cause all kinds of problems. You can't just crank up boost without tuning. And if you're gonna be tuning, then your tuning software can control boost levels. So it's unnecessary on these cars.
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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That's exactly what I was thinking! No tune no messing with boost unless a performance part adds psi.. Corret?!
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:30 PM
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Then your not adding boost the part is.
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:33 PM
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usually adding bolt ons will actually cause a psi drop due to better air flow. Boost is a measure of restriction. You don't wanna touch boost without adjusting for afr, timing, etc. Even on a car that requires a manual boost controller like my car you still need to tune for boost changes.
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:35 PM
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Makes complete sense lol. I knew I would ask edited strapping on a boost controller. Prolly won't even do it after I get a tune
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:37 PM
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no there's no need for it since these cars can control boost through the ecu. It's really just gonna be more clutter in the engine bay.
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Old May 19, 2012 | 12:46 AM
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Thank you!
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Old May 19, 2012 | 01:01 AM
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What are your goals for the car?
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Old May 19, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ramrod1337
What are your goals for the car?
Eleventy billion HP.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ramrod1337
What are your goals for the car?
First thing first
I have the Kn SRI
and a ZZP catless DP
Next will be a tune from them and have them install the gms1 (I THINK)
Is the GMS1 worth the extra 130 bones??

Then I would like to powder coat my rims black and do the EVO mod and throw some retros up front.

Then the forged BPV and catback exhaust.
After that just store it for the winter and hope to do zzp's polished lnf head/cam/combo kit...

Will see tho. The tune and visuals will be in the next month.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TommyP
no there's no need for it since these cars can control boost through the ecu. It's really just gonna be more clutter in the engine bay.
It's actually less clutter.


Seriously though, as Tommy said it is pointless on your car/setup.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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Thanks for the help guys.. Just waiting for tommy to answer my next question.. hehe
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ford
It's actually less clutter.


Seriously though, as Tommy said it is pointless on your car/setup.
Oh, well I stand corrected
Originally Posted by Cobe
Thanks for the help guys.. Just waiting for tommy to answer my next question.. hehe
About gms1? It's only worth it if you want to keep your warranty. Otherwise an aftermarket tune will be cheaper and more effective.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Mbc is annoying when you want to change boost levels.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dart_SI
Mbc is annoying when you want to change boost levels.
I find it easier than flashing a car that is controlled by the ECM. It takes me like 7 seconds to change the boost on the car. Even easier would be a electronic boost controller that you could adjust from the driver seat.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ford
I find it easier than flashing a car that is controlled by the ECM. It takes me like 7 seconds to change the boost on the car. Even easier would be a electronic boost controller that you could adjust from the driver seat.
True. I heard all the current ebc's on the market suck tho. Im thinking about having my mbc mounted inside so I can do it easy. The trunk popper area is a perfect location.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ford
I find it easier than flashing a car that is controlled by the ECM. It takes me like 7 seconds to change the boost on the car. Even easier would be a electronic boost controller that you could adjust from the driver seat.
You could do like me and mount your mbc in the car, lol...I found a boot in the firewall I was able to get around. You just need more vac line.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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lol, lazy. I could but i really like my mount position for the controller under the hood. Plus it is pretty clean and i even wrapped the lines with that corrugated tubing so it looks like the wiring in the car. Possibly it protects the lines from heat as well, a lil?

Really the only thing i can't move is the oil feed line... that sucker is sitting on the edge of the manifold and i cant find a way to get it not to touch. Thinking either a longer line or some header wrap for it lmao.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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So does should I spend the extra 130 bucks towards the GMS1 when zzp tunes my car?...
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobe
So does should I spend the extra 130 bucks towards the GMS1 when zzp tunes my car?...
The GMS1 you are referring to is the sensors....ZZP is tuning the car.

And yes, I would get the sensors. They are more accurate at higher boost levels.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 03:13 PM
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part throttle, full boost.

ECU tuning is the way to go (for stock-like turbo setups).
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Old May 22, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
part throttle, full boost.
There is this. Honestly it is the biggest issue with pedaling my car down the 1/4 mile on street tires as well. Lag, spin, lag, spin.... It would probably murder a stock clutch as well with the way it would make torque.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ford
lol, lazy. I could but i really like my mount position for the controller under the hood. Plus it is pretty clean and i even wrapped the lines with that corrugated tubing so it looks like the wiring in the car. Possibly it protects the lines from heat as well, a lil?

Really the only thing i can't move is the oil feed line... that sucker is sitting on the edge of the manifold and i cant find a way to get it not to touch. Thinking either a longer line or some header wrap for it lmao.
You have to relocate it. Move it to the far right oil plug in the block. Remove that plug and place it where the stock oil feed was located. You can get a rubber wrapped metal clamp if your kit didn't come with one and mount it to one of the water pump bolts.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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And don't forget to coat the plug with grey rtv just as you did the oil feed fitting.
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