Hey Folks, I am leaning to k04r turbo soon and I wanted to know which clutch that can hold up k04r ? I've been seeing ky s3 clutch failed here. I am either in between gmpp clutch or south bend s4 clutch. Which 1 of those clutch is the best route to go ? I want to use my car for daily driven and blast to drive at the same time.

 

We have sold over 500 cobalt KY Performance kits. There are a handful of those who had issues, ky has helped out and fixed all of them that the customer was willing. Ky will never give up and say tuff luck, they stand behind their products. I have one on my 08 ss/tc for many years with no issues. I have driven spec and I like my ky much better.

 

Spec stage 3+ with aluminum flywheel

 

Yeah...When it come to traffic and I don't wanna go "Oh! My calf!" LMAO!

 

Spec stage 3+ is amazing feel. It's slightly heavier thensttoxk and engages like stock. I Dd that clutch

 

I plan on getting that when my stock one goes. Will it hold on a zfr 6758?

 

Dang! $756 dollars plus shipping and other parts needed. That'll set alittle over $1,000...

 

Stick with a NEW stock steel flywheel. I hate aluminum.... We can do the SPEC stage 3+ clutch kit for $745 + ship.

 

NONE of the clutch kits press "hard" they are hydraulic assisted.... It is not like the old days

 

If the oem flywheel wouldnt cost 3 times what it used to lol

 

Lol get a gmpp I bet it will hold everything a k04r can throw. Some Ppl with zfr's run a gmpp around 400's it does fine u can tune not to waste your clutch by boost ramping etc.

 

That except I like the stock heavy flywheel better. The GMPP clutch works well as well and costs less.

 

i dont trust the stock flywheel materials with the 3+ i had one chew up a f23 flywheel real good. now while i understand the f35 flywheel is better i still dont run the risk and i like the fact that spec balances the flywheel and clutch together as an assembly when you buy both from them or an authorized dealer. I only had a bit of a chatter during cold weather the first 2-3 times engaging the clutch then it went away. Very good very comfortable clutch that holds a lot of power.

 

It's all about the torque it can handle. Not horsepower. Get stage 3, can handle up to 475lbs of tq

 

I'd go the South Bends stage 4/4+ route. I am a full ceramic faced disc kind of guy. puck clutches are for race cars.

 

That's what I am the same way. I don't want to have pucks clutch and I know it's an overkill for daily driving. I'd rather have full disc clutch don't matter what's the brands are but full disc clutch are best for daily driven.

 

Well, I found spec stage 2+ clutch for decent price and it hold 440ft with full face disc. That's what I would want...

 

The 3+ from spec is a full face or I wouldn't of recommended it. Like I said I Dd my car and I don't like the noise, drovetrain shock and vibrations pucked clutches cause. I don't do pucked clutches in these cars nor have I ever had issues with the 10-12 I have put in what so ever. do not do the regular stage 3 because it is a pucked clutch. I also do not recommend south bend. I've had more then one spring retainer break apart in their clutch in customer cars ehich were installed by other parties. so I won't be using them.

Btw I know it's about torque.I used power as a general reference. Hense how I didn't put Hp.

 

Sounds like Spec stage 2+ and 3+ full disc clutch are worth it. Yeah, I've noticed couple of guys here on this forums has pucks clutch and ended up fail.

 

Stock clutch or GMPP with a new flywheel. Replace all the hydraulics too

 

Ky stage 3 clutch done by dealership, I supplied the clutch and they had their body shop machine the flywheel.


TOB failed in 8000 miles (3 shitty months later with my commuting).

Installing GMPP and new flywheel now.

 

Sounds like resurface flywheel is a bad idea with ky s3 clutch...

 

Ky clutch in general is a bad idea. Sure they might take care of parts but are they reimbursing the time to remove the trans or paying the cost back of you payin to have someone keep taking it out and putting it in? Of course not. So I would stay away from them until they figure their clutch out.

You should never resurface the flywheel in these cars period. Doesn't matter who's clutch you use. They tolerences are easily blown and it's so minimal it's not worth taking the chance.

The 3+ is hands down the best clutch money will buy in this car and probably is one of the easiest to drive.

 

This will cause a TOB/slave to pop sooner than anything else IMO.

 

I believe you, cause I've been seeing so many fails on this clutch. Why would that company continue making them if they fix their mistakes and still fails. Something is not right here...I'm guessing due to their measurement from pressing clutch to flywheel are too long. I've kept seeing tob failing due to stretch when engaging ky s3 clutch ? Maybe that is the part of reason crate engine depot have tob spacer for those ?