hey guys,

long story short car is in the shop cause my tranny is leaking, clutch is almost at the rivites and they offered to throw it in wial its apart. what is the best clutch replacement? im on stock turbo., im hearing ky stage 3 and the gmpp clutch are good. I would like clutch flywheel and probley throw out bearing. I need this by Monday/Tuesday so I need to order tonight.

 

yea id go with gmpp not only because its a great clutch and holds heavy beatings but because of CED's fast shipping too

 

I thought lnf's came with a gmpp, shuld I do a flywheel and throw out bearing?

 

i dont think the gmpp is the stock lnfs clutch, but theres many threads with that argument. Ive had my own experience with my current gmpp clutch and it help when my lsj was turboed very nicely and still holds up strong till this day. you should deff throw in a new TOB, if your fly wheel is good then either resurface it or leave as is..

 

he suggested a flywheel an clutch, dint mention anything on the tob, but that was the service guy not the mechanic. do you have a link to this setup? I hate CED's website, I contacted tom at CED waiting for a response

 

Ky Stage 3 is the way to go. Once I need a clutch that's what'll go in mine.

 

I hear the gmpp is only for lsj, im looking for a ky rite now, wanna order but there websites ****

 

Do not go with a ky stage 3 clutch if you are looking for serious power. Mine slips at the dumbest times.

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If you're stock, put the stock clutch back in. It took E47 and a quick boost ramp to get mine to slip at all.

 

I just got a KY stage 3 and a brand new stock LNF flywheel. Make sure you break in the clutch properly or else you will have slippage and chatter (thats what the guy over at Turbo Tech Racing told me and what others have said that own KY stage 3).

This is a terrible idea, the clutch job in these cars are a real pain in the ass and you really want to reduce the amount of times you are swapping clutches. I was only HP tuned as well and my clutch started slipping about 1 year ago and is now at the point where its slipping all the time now (still only HP tuned). So I would strongly recommend upgrading your clutch even if you don't plan on adding any major mods. Btw, you will want to do full boltons after a year or two just like me because eventually "just a tune" wont satisfy you anymore.

 

im just tuned, not looking for more power down the road

 

Seeing as how I babied the **** out of my car with the new clutch, flywheel, flywheel bolts, and tob for 850 miles just to be safe and end up having a clutch still slipping. That post is still wrong. I'm not the only one either. Find 2010ss. He's on his second one and it is still doing it. Like I said, if you're looking for serious power in the future, don't go with the ky stage 3.

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im not looking for serious power 300hp- 350trq max, what do u suggest?

 

Ky would be fine for that power range but if you're looking at just those goals and nothing more, mise well get the gmpp piece. Its cheaper and holds tuned power really well. I just don't know how its holding up for some bigger turbo guys.

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im waitin on ttr to respond, whats the best way to break it in?what do u think of re machineing my flywheel? an do I need the flywheel bolts? I have a catless, charge pipes an trifecta

 

Recommended break in is 500 miles of stop and go driving and using the clutch heavily. City driving is best for it. Not long drives such as highway and what not. I went 850 miles cause most of my drive is highway with some city driving.

Machining a flywheel is going to cost at least $50. You can get a brand new one for $80 or so if you find one on the forums. Flywheel bolts are recommended a one time usage as well. They should be replaced but you necessarily don't need to.

If you're gonna get it replaced and spend the money, why not do it once. I replaced mine and learned my lesson. Don't go cheap. I replaced everything new and my clutch slips and my tob is already going. I can tell you when I rip everything apart again to replace my tob I'm taking my ky stage 3 out.

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thanks for your imput, i grabbed the ky, flywheel on the other hand is a shade of blue, car took a beatin an was stalled on a dyno that most likely wore the clutch out an heat cyclef the flywheel, i cant find a flywheel rite now, worse i have to remachine, is it ttrue the 2010 have a different flywheel than 08-09

 

There are a bunch of guys on here making over 400 whp running the gmpp, including aviator i think. Its 1/2 the price and sounds like it holds real nice. I will be ordering it.

 

It's not a terrible idea. It's a great idea. OP doesn't want to make more power, so the stock clutch is fine. It was the clutch that was designed for the car, unlike all these aftermarket pieces of crap we hear so any horror stories about.

 

Actually it is. He's getting tuned soon and it'll definitely slip again. Should just buy the gmpp piece. Seems good from everyone's stand point so far.

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Speaking from personal experience, I've actually had good luck with my kys3 for the year and a half it's been on the car making 350whp/385wtrq running e47 and the gmpp clutch really does hold great on the lnf's. For the price though, you really can't beat the gmpp clutch.

 

That's simply not true.

 

should I be replacing the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? im not sure if the ky clutch comes with any

 

Yes you should. Find out if the PP is coming with bolts or not. You can get the flywheel bolts from CED or ZZP.

I'll be replacing my stock LNF clutch with the gmpp.

 

yep tom helped my out, the flywheels are the only bolts trq. to yeald