i have the Hahn pipe. I'm wanting to do the hks bov. I'm wanting to make sure I'm ordering the right one. HKS Super SSQV 4 BOV Blow Off Valve 71008-AK001

 

if ur getting a zzp charge pipe, for that bov, make sure u get the one with no bov flange, since the flange on the zzp is a totally different flange than this bov requires.

 

so ya ull need the zzp pipe without flange and then ull have to also buy a flange for the hks bov and weld it on the pipe

 

I have Hahn charge pipe atm.. If all I need to do is weld a flange on it then I will just do that... I know I need the block off plate also.

 

Is the Hahn cp aluminum or their old steel junk

 

theres nothing wrong with steel pipes the ones that rust are because someone scratched the powder down to the metal usually. i have not seen one rot from the inside out. if they are you have something wrong with your car that you have that much moisture getting into the piping.

aluminum is great too but dents easy, corrodes easy, is more expensive and is harder to weld if your not mandrel bending it and so on and so forth. theres trade offs with both. at our shop we do both kinds for different platforms. it all comes down to the price customers are willing to pay and what we can offer them as the best option for that money.

to answer your question op. they make the hks flanges in steel. so you techincally can get that and have it welded on. the top of the flanges are always aluminum and the bottoms steel. usually when i do the steel flanges i will remove the oring between the aluminum flange and steel flange and when your done welding the steel flange to the pipe it will have expanded the threads enough to never allow the aluminum piece to be removed. its kind of a stupid design imho. the aluminum flanges i weld completely solid.

 

Mine was rusting on the inside. And the location of the lower part of the upper charge pipe and the lower charge pipe , it will get rock songs and start to rust, and if u live in snow climate , u got road salt that will find its way under the powder coat, doesn't matter how good it is.

 

Never had an issue with it unless the pipes were rubbing or taking elements in from somewhere. Like the screw holes for the map. I live il so I know all a out it. Even aluminum piping will corrode if left uncoated. Each metal has their ups and downs is all I'm saying. And if they guy doesn't have rusting issues then he can easily get away with a new flange and recoating the pipe.

 

Ya he can , but I still wouldn't in cold, the inside is not coated and even changes in temp from - temps to + temps will cause condensation and then rust

 

Just check it and it is aluminum. I got a shop that is going to weld it for me... Is there a better place to put it on the pipe that works better...

Does you want the bov close to the turbo or near the front end of the car?

 

Is this the flange I need SSQV Aluminum Weld on Flange 60mm - HKS USA

 

Usually closer to the turbo is best.

Also all his flanges are the same I'm pretty sure. Don't think it's changed since their first gen ssqv valve

 

Looks right, just make sure it's aluminum and for the right size of pipe, u'll want one for 2.5" pipe. And Ya closer to turbo the better. But it would work fine like zzp has theirs, go look. Just make sure u get that bov before u weld on flange do u can see how it will fit

 

So I want to run a HKS BOV as well. Posted on my local car club forum asking a question about it similar to this and got bashed off the face of the earth for "wanting to run a blow through maf setup" people calling me retarded ect ect. I see tons of guys here (not the majority but plenty) run a atmosphere bov setup without issue. My tuner said its a pain but he can do it.


So what is the real problem that causes so much hate? Someone mentioned it may need to be retuned when the climate changes?

 

It's that you'll spike rich from metered air the PCM is looking for being vented out.

 

Those people are stupid, tell them we all at cobalt ss say so and if they want to argue about to they can come do so lol

 

K going to order everything tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

 

point us to this forum so we can troll lol

 

It is do able. Without the maf relocate you do not get rid of the rich spike issue. Anyone that says they can tune around it should just quit while they are ahead. They can make droveability better but you still will not solve the actual issue of metered air being vented to the atmosphere. The car might seem fine but underneath it all its not.

With a maf relocate its still tricky since you have to recalibrate it for the piping diameter change and what not but its the correct way to do it. With the hks tial and synapse you can recirculate to avoid a maf relocate.

 

Running a blow through system is completely fine (maf relocate), and is ideal imo. Running a draw through system is where it can get tricky. Aside from, like a few already stated, the fact that the system will run extremely rich between shifts. The bigger issue here with a draw through is, unless you recirc, you're creating an open loop in a closed loop air system. With that being done, all you're really doing is purposely introducing a massive air leak into the system that will draw unmetered air under normal driving conditions. Depending on how hard you crank down on the adjuster, this may or may not force the car into limp mode. It's really a 50/50 shot with draw through systems. Plus, if you have to crank down THAT hard on an adjuster, you pretty well just defeated the point of running a bov in the first place because of how hard it will be for the bov to actually open between shifts.

There's flat out NO way of tuning around a draw through vta bov setup. You simply can not tune around a consistently INCONSISTANT volume of air. It's simply not a tunable thing regardless what anyone tells you. It's simply nonsense. This is the primary reason for going to a blow through system. This allows for a completely consistent air metering and is 100% tunable. Recirc works very well in either a draw or blow through system, but honestly, most folks are putting a vta bov on their vehicle so they can hear the undeniable sound of a bov. Doing a recirc sort of takes away from all that imo, but again, is still a very good option for other aspects.

 

I see you used my open closed loop theory lingo lol.... At least someone out there listens to what I say. It you actually have a clue too

 

lol, yeah.. No offense though, but this concept has been around for quite sometime now, although I do recall mentioning it once or twice in the past as well. So I'm not really sure it's completely you're theory.

Either way, I completely agree. Most either don't understand the principle of it, or just simply choose to ignore it because "my car works fine with it". Mean while he's having other issues that are "completely unrelated" to the bov.. lol.. That and the always lovely gem of "well my buddies srt4 works just fine with a vta bov, so I don't understand why my cobalt can't."

 

Yeah the srt4 is one of the only cars it works with without modification. Srt4s also can ru. Without like 40% of their air electronics plugged in too lol. I like those cars as they are stout. They even run with rods sticking out of the block and destroyed pistons in the pan. Do that on an lnf you will be lucky if it starts.

 

So what your saying is I need to do a maf relocation for best results...

 

What we are saying is you need one to do it right. You could recirculate the bov but then you have to have a bung welded on the intakerecirculate. Recirculating is the only way around a maf relocate