Like I said, it works like a champ. It just looks like ****.

 

I have my AEM back on. Well, sort of, I have the stock elbow going to the turbo now instead of the huge piece of silicone. I will see how it runs tomorrow.

 

I broke the dumb bracket on my AEM so I have to rig a new one, But after that and I polish her up nice I will put her back on and let you know!

Oh, Does anybody know where I should buy the AEM filter Cleaner?

Oh, and one more thing, My Intake is trashed as far as the finish goes, Should I polish it, Paint it with that Ruber texture looking crap, Spray paint it, Or get it powdercoated?

 

throw it away

 

haha, Yeah probably should but I am a sucker for lost causes!

 

I cut my bracket off mine on purpose so it fits better with the stock elbow. No torque on the stock breather fitting now. Car runs better thus far this way compared to before. I still need to get the MAF fully dialed in but it was running pretty good this morning. Feels like it has more topend now compared to the stock airbox.

 

^what did you do to keep it from wobbling around?

 

It is clamped tight to the stock elbow and it has only a little room to move in the fender hole. I dont think it is going anywhere. It is not putting anymore stress on the flimsy plastic breather anymore.

 

I'm a little confused here. I thought that the stock elbow was restrictive (less airflow) and also that the position of the MAF in the AEM caused for turbulent airflow and therefore screwed air/fuel ratios. I guess I don't understand why the stock elbow would fix the issues with the AEM. I know for ZZP's aibox mod they even showed using the silicon elbow from AEM's intake and then using the stock airbox (modded to get rid of the pinch on the other side of the filter). Also, would it be reasonable to just go buy some fine mesh and close it over the MAF to reduce turbulence? I vaguely remember reading about this before...

I guess my question is this: I have the GMS1 and both the stock and AEM intakes. What should I do for best performance?

 

bump on this thread. Anybody have any advice for staying with the AEM CAI and trying to put some mesh over the MAF vs. moving back to the stock airbox (ZZP modded) with the silicon elbow vs. selling the AEM CAI and doing the ZZP airbox mod?

 

You can tune for the MAF skew with HPT, IMO the turbulence isn't the issue, the larger dia of the intake at the MAF is. The same volume of air at a given rpm is moving past the MAF sensor at a slower rate since the diameter of the tube is larger. That is what has to be tuned out.

Even after I had the trims dead on with the AEM when I had it, I still experienced lurching at DFCO and cold start turbo surge for a minute or two. A few of us think that might be caused by the silicone tube flexing under load change. That could set up a pulsing in the intake tract and confuse the sensors for flow and pressure as well.

Stiffening the silicone piece may stop that from happening, but I sold mine so I can't try that.

The Hahn took more tuning than the AEM did but runs the best of the 3 intakes I've had. (Dejon SRI also) 4 counting the airbox zzp mod.

Since you went GMS1, I presume you want to keep the warranty so you prob don't want to tune. Best keep the stock box then. Any intake change including a K&N drop in skews the MAF. The K&N only a few percent, but it still was off. It flows pretty well with the airbox mod. I only increased to 36 lb/min after putting the Hahn CAI on. Airbox mod was ~35 lb/min.

 

No surging anymore with the stock elbow on with the AEM tube. Airflow is still just as good with the stock elbow. 34.7 MAF lbs/min LTFT 0% and STFT 0.8%

 

Thank you guys for the info. I think I'll prolly switch back to the stock airbox with the ZZP mod and K&N drop in. If the MAF is off by only a tiny amount I think I'm okay with that for the advantage of better airflow. Much appreciated!

 

If you go in for service, remember to put the stock filter back in in case they look. Why raise anymore questions than you have to.

 

I have the AEM intake also. The only thing I have noticed is the loud air sucking sound followed by a woooosh sound (pressure blow off) when I cold started the car. The pressure guage during this time never even gets to 0 boost. The only other thing I have notice was at the track on a cool day, I would launch the car; then at about 5500 - 6000 the engine would dump it's boost and bog for a split second then run run hard to redline. It only did this in first gear. We worked with the tune at the time and once we applied 100% to first gear all the way to red line the issue seemed to disappear( traction was the new problem lol). I don't know if this helps or not but that is my experience.

 

Just as food for thought, why doesn't somebody try and un-oiled K&N filter for testing to see if the dryflow AEM filter element is causing an airflow restristion and collapsing the silicon tube. That or bolt up a PepBoys velocity stack when on a dyno. I have a dryflow on my cummins dodge and an interesting tid bit is the length of time it takes for these filters to dry after cleaning. A K&N may take 15-30min were the AEM seems to take a day or 2 to dry out completely. Think the idea is there but the filter element is too much of a restristion. Besides I know from personal experience that an un-oiled K&N flows like a SOB. To counter act the non-oiled situation if this works could put a filterwrap over it as precaution IMO.

 

^^ that is a possibility, but why would be still have the same issues running the AEM elbow with the stock airbox and K&N filter. Same results. It just chokes out and surges like crazy.

 

Term2 reported no issues with the AEM intake tube, Driflo filter and MAF location using the stock tube from the turbo up instead of the silicone molded piece. I believe he correctly located the cause of the issues with the AEM CAI.
The silicone molded piece from the turbo to the AEM intake tube.

 

Forgot about that one. Maybe they can go with a poly or CF material.

 

Yes, this is the same piece that is failing for me, so AEM needs to correct this issue.

 

I used extra hose clamps on the bends and there is no flutter or surge or any other problems any more, I also made a new bracket because the old one broke.

 

Did you use the hose clamp on the stock elbow to connect to the AEM tube or did you use some other connection?

 

I used the clamp on the stock elbow to attach it. They (stock and the silicone AEM) are both 3.25" ID tubes.

 

So you just replaced the aem elbow for the stock one and everything works fine now?

If I replaced the aem elbow with the stock elbow, would it be bad to drive with my car tuned to my aem intake? or would the LTFT and STFT's be the same?

 

bump