Hey guys, I was at a four way red light waiting for it to turn green.. When it did I accelerated, nothing fast or anything but then it felt like I started in second or third.. It did the little jerk and then stalled, in the middle of the road. So i quickly turned the car off then turned it back on but it didn't sound right. Just clicking.. So I turned it off, coasted backwards to get out of the intersection.. Tried again and it started right up with no issues and I was able to go on my way.. This never happened before.. There were no early indications something was wrong, no cel light.. I got home and hooked the hp tuner up and did a diagnostics.. I know I've done this diagnostics in the past and some of these were on there as well but what do the "incompletes" mean? Any ideas as to what could have happened? Possibly just a one time thing, I just saw a lot of posts about cobalts stalling out over and over again.. There are no active recalls on this..

 

Those are the test for inspection the car needs certain parameters meet before it will start the test and completed that won't cause you any problems other than not pass emissions

 

Oh okay, I thought that was what is wrong.. I just took the car out and drove it hard.. Sat on the side of the road for 10 minutes to get the engine at the same temp it was at when it happened.. Nothing happened.. I'm guessing, cuz when the light turned green I quickly put it in gear, that I accidently put it third gear.. That's the only thing I can think of what happened.

 

Could be thats what happened, but yeah that's only for emission so if you have a problem its going to be something else.

Did you recently tune the car? Disconnect the battery? Or clear a DTC?

 

Kevin lasted tuned it a few months ago.. I did clear the DTCs just to double check. There was nothing listed besides what is in that screen cap. I'll just say it was driver error for now.. If it was anything related to intake, mas, or fuel, that would kick a cel, right?

 

Ahh ok since you cleared your codes that's why your test aren't ready. The code could be pending so you woukd need to drive mlre and maybe something could come out but just keep driving normally and keep an eye on it

 

Actually there was one that was pending now that i think about it.. It was a brake circuit or something like that. However that had always been there since the first day i got the car.

 

I drive the car to the store and then checked for codes.. Here is that code I was talking about. I never actually noticed if my third brake light was out.. So I'm gonna check that in a minute.. But had no issues while driving. I was even logging it with hp tuner just in case it happened again.. Which I'll do for the next few days.


In regards to those incomplete tests.. How long do I have to drive for those to show complete?

 

If these are like my 18-year old BMW. those emissions item tests take a certain type of driving for certain periods of time. For example, with O2 and catalyst, it has to idle for a period, be under a certain RPM and speed for a period, then a different speed for a bit, and the tests will complete. EVAP has to be warmed up and driven, then shut off and let sitting for a while to run a leak test. It might just take 1 cycle, but I'm not sure of that.

 

Well car did it again while driving on the highway.. Said reduced engine power and now engine light is on. Able to pull into parking lot, going back to the house to get the laptop and hp tuner to read the code.. Hopefully it's somethinf easy.

 

Damn man that's crazy let's us know the code to see if we can give you a hand

 

I hope so. I'm glad my girlfriend and her mother where behind me in my other car. Just a 15 minute drive back to the house to drive back out there. Gr. Will let you know. Thank you again for always replying.

 

Only thing I worry about is that when I tried to start it again, it just went click click click continously until I turned the key off

 

 

The reduce engine power disappeared and I cleared those codes , and drove it around the lot. Went back to being fine

 

I talked to the person who owned it before me, he said he never replaced the fuel rails? Wouldn't those only be bad if they were leaking?

 

Your hpfp might be on it's way out. I forget if those are the codes for the expected pressure vs actual pressure. Log those two parameters and see if they follow. Also check the wires going into your hpfp and make sure none have worn through and are shorting.

 

I'm not that mechanically smart... I did log my ride home from where I had it happen, I can post the log on here? I plan on dropping it off at the mechanics tomorrow and have him look at it. I'm writing down all this to show him what to possibly look for


Edit... Hpfp.. I should have known thats what that stood for. Researching online those codes due relate to the Hpfp but wouldn't I be having these issues more frequently, like daily? It's only happened twice now, the first being on Saturday.

 

After letting the car sit for about hour n half, I went out turned the key on and this is what the fuel pressure psi read.



Then turned the car on and the psi dropped.

 

Wires don't look to bad.

 

Might not have anything to do with it but did you notice that the housing is cracked?

 

You should log it with Hptuners, if you want I can email you a log setup for that. Also depending on where in Las Vegas you are I'm going to be there tomorrow night (not staying long just 1 night) if you buy me a beer I'll take a look at it.

that black plastic piece isn't the actual housing, its a piece of foam for sound. Here is the pump without the plastic foam

 

Pm sent.

 

How easy is replacing this pump? I called the garage here and they said 918.00!!!! Are u friggen kidding me?!

 

iirc it's relatively simple. Two lines and two bolts, you just end up with some fuel all over the place

I'll see if I can find the thread discussing the wires and what the other user had to do, I want to say he had to pull the wire loom back some.