2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Car stalled when accelerating

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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:13 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
iirc it's relatively simple. Two lines and two bolts, you just end up with some fuel all over the place

I'll see if I can find the thread discussing the wires and what the other user had to do, I want to say he had to pull the wire loom back some.
If you stop up tomorrow night could you possibly show me?
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by brettxw
If you stop up tomorrow night could you possibly show me?
Yeah I can, have to check with the wife. We're driving out to California and just staying 1 night in Vegas
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:23 PM
  #28  
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Ah gotcha, understood.
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:24 PM
  #29  
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Okay, another update...It did it again, this time sitting at a light...not moving...not giving it any gas...I was watching my display for coolant temp and intake temperature and I had a feeling it was going to do it. Outside temperature is 103 degrees. Driving, my intake temp is at 114, sitting at that light my intake temp went up to 130! Why does it get that high? My coolant was at 198. Driving my coolant temp will be at 194 and anything over 194 the fan will usually kicks in. However, this time I only got one code, which was the P0087 (fuel rail pressure to low), i didn't have the P0089 code...I'm still guessing its the hpfp which I have ordered. I keep the laptop in the car now so I can clear the code and continue home but do these two things (the temperature of the intake) and then the fuel rail issue have anything to do with each other? Why is the air intake temp getting so damn high? I'm guessing when Im sitting and not moving the air being sucked in is hotter because of the engine letting off so much heat?

Ive talked to the previous owner who still has the stock fuel rails and and stock injectors, should I have him come put the stock ones back in? Before I had the car, he had it tuned for 85 and had the injectors and fuel rail upgraded.

Last edited by brettxw; Jun 3, 2017 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:33 PM
  #30  
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Looking on the site came across this PDF and it says this :

P0087
pressure deviation from desired -
difference ( desired versus actual fuel rail pressur
e
1500
Kpa
error: electrical diagnosis of fuel rail press
not set
-
-
2 sec
continuous
4 sec
under pressure
airbag deployed
FALSE


So is it saying its an electrical issue? Why does it mention the airbag? Ironically the airbag light does come on..
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:44 PM
  #31  
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Take the black loom off those two wires coming out of the hpfp and look for any breaks or cuts, the loom would likely be worn in the same area.

Sorry I didn't get a hold of you, the wife have things planned for the evening.
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
Take the black loom off those two wires coming out of the hpfp and look for any breaks or cuts, the loom would likely be worn in the same area.

Sorry I didn't get a hold of you, the wife have things planned for the evening.
No worries. the black loom is the black tube protecting the wires, right?
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by brettxw
No worries. the black loom is the black tube protecting the wires, right?
Yup
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 05:52 PM
  #34  
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Thanks guys for your help I cant being to thank you enough. I have to let the car cool down first..

In regards to the stock injectors and fuel rail, since the car has not been tuned for 85 since I got it, would you recommend I put the stock rail and injectors back in since they are injectors for 85 fuel? He also suggested that I bring it to the chevy dealer to get the stock tune back on it and have them diagnose it before (if) the injectors and fuel rail to go back on? In regards to that, I'm going to go off what you guys and/or Kevin say as you have much more experience. According to him the HPFP has never been replaced either.

Last edited by brettxw; Jun 3, 2017 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 07:11 PM
  #35  
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The wires seem to look okay, no kinks, cuts or worn.
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Old Jun 3, 2017 | 08:13 PM
  #36  
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Should I just replace the hpfp or bring it to the dealer and have them diagnose it and go from there?
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Old Jun 23, 2017 | 10:19 PM
  #37  
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It did it again!!!!!! Unfriggen believable. Replaced the fuel pump two weeks ago and it ran fine.. Was on the highway doing 75 and all of a sudden it reduced power with the CEL light coming on.. Had the HPtuner with me but it wouldn't read any codes. Got it started again.. Drive for a few feet and it does it again. This time the low pressure fuel pump, fuel rail and fuel regulator popped up... I'm done with this car. It's sitting in the parking lot, gonna have it towed to the garage. I don't know what else to try
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Old Jun 23, 2017 | 10:45 PM
  #38  
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Now... Do I just let the chevy dealership work on it the mechanic I have used for my other car?
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 08:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by brettxw
Now... Do I just let the chevy dealership work on it the mechanic I have used for my other car?
Brother, this is how it is with these friggin cars man! It is entirely up to you who you want to steal your money. It's either you have someone else do it who hopefully doesn't rip you off (because screw the working man!) or you put some sweat and tears in to it and do-it-yourself.

I am going to tell you from experience... both routes suck. Which one can you afford to do? That should be your determining factor. Just my 2 cents.

And I'm feeling your pain about this car. I'm going through a hard to find issue at the moment as well. GOOD LUCK MAN!
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