was thinkin of changin my own oil to save the cash.

may sound dumb, but could someone give me some tips, like location of drain bolt/oil pan, how long u drain for, and most importantly how to change out the filter (and where it is). pics would be best but text is cool also... thanx u dont need torque specs for drain bolt, do u?

 

15MM drain bolt, 1 1/4" socket for oil filter. drain is at the bottom of you oil pan clear as day when undercar and oil filter hosing is hard to explain you need a pic but its on the drivers side under the hot IC pipe sort of....you get to it from top, theres how-tos all over this site search

 

Searching > You
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/oil-change-how-picture-22848/

Keep your receits for the oil and the oil filter and record the mileage at which you changed the oil.

 

Oil filter is located under the supercharger and is a compete bitch to change. Make sure your car has been sitting for a while bc that thing gets hot as ****. Drain the oil until it stops coming out. You don't need a torque wrench.

 

There is a supercharger on my car

JK JK

 

Oil filter on N/A cobalts is easy to get to. On my SS/TC the best thing to do was remove the brake booster line going into the intake manifold and move it out of the way.

 

i cant tell if you know what your talken bout...but there really is no SC on your car if your an LNF.....

realised you where not the person originally asking bout changing the oil im sure you where just jokin ha

How much do dealers charge for oil changes anyway?

 

Mine gets $ 89.95 for the synthetic oil change, which on my own cost $ 19.95 for so for the 5 quart jug of Pennzoil Platinum ( it meets the GM4718M spec - I believe that is the number ) and it was around $ 7.00 for the filter from Advanced Auto Parts.


I spent like 2 bux for a 1-1/4" 6 point 1/2" drive socket from Northern Tool, and had extensions already.

I drove mine up on some boards and slithered/crawled/cussed my way underneath - I think next time I'll drive up on ramps or maybe jack the car up some.

The cannister filter is a snap to replace, with little or no oil mess , but getting the cap off can be a bit of a chore due to the location on the lower driver's side of the motor.

My drain plug was on stoopidly tight, although some of that may have been due to the goofy angle I was at while under the car.

I did not tighten the crap out of it when I put it back in - no need.


Doing it on your own is the way to go !

Britt

 

and to answer the last question u had, drain it till the oil stops coming out.

 

The hardest part of doing your oil will be jacking up the front end. After that everthing is rediculously accessible.

Drain plug=15mm
Oil filter=1-1/4" socket with about 8" extension
5.5qts Mobile 1 (5w30)= $22-$26
AC Delco Oil filter, cap and o-ring= $15

So you will spend around $40 per oil change assuming you have the tools as opposed to $90. And you will know that it was done right.

UMM......Huh?

 

make sure u put some water in it after the oil drains and drive a good distance to clean the old oil out,,,, actually dont do this,,, ya it saves a ass load of cash, and doesnt take that long, just make sure u use the recommended oil prob not a good thing to use nething but synthetic
good luck, ,

 

i have 44k on mine and i have never change the black cap the oil flitler plugs into or the screw under the car.should these be changed?

to the OP these cars are really easy to change the oil on it will take you like 20min if that

 

you can (or at least I can with my discount) buy the filter with the cap in one box for only a few bucks more at the dealership...I'm going to change mine out next time just because the o-ring wears out over time (I've seen several leak) and I don't really want to risk my oil leaking out when I least expect it

drain plug doesn't necessarily need replaced unless the threads are worn out

 

when i get a oil filter it always comes with a new o ring for the cap.

 

^ OEM or aftermarket? I've never had an o-ring come with one at work

 

Seriously man why would you post this even joking. The guy obviously doesn't know what hes doing and may take you seriously.

 

You all make this sound complicated..... I have been changing the oil in my cobalts for 4 years, at least 20 times. It is one of the easiest cars I have ever changed oil on, I love having filters on the top side of engine. It costs about 30 bucks total. $22-24 for Mobile 1 at Wal-mart.

1. You do not need to jack the car up, the drain plug is easily reachable unless you are 5ft. tall and have tiny arms. Reach from passenger side, it is closer.

2. You just need a filter, no need buying a cap and o-ring all the time. The filters are about 5 bucks at my local Advance auto. I have never replaced the cap and o-ring in 4 years, they are fine. I am not sure what you guys are doing to your o-rings that makes them need replacing. That cap makes a hell of a seal.. http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1671C193.aspx

3. Get the oil filter wrench, it makes it easier. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_oh_product Just use with an extension, you don't need to move anything out of the way.

The work takes about 5-7 minutes... the rest is just draining the oil, which I let drain for quite a while.

 

i use a fram filter, so i guess aftermarket

 

Mine has never leaked and probably never will since I lube the o-ring each oil change, but for a few bucks more I'm willing to give myself that extra peace of mind. Just not every oil change of course. Maybe every 30k or so...I dunno. lol I'm **** about my cars.

 

The o-ring always came with my filters 2 from AutoZone.
Royal Purple oil
ACDelco filter

 

The oil filter is next to the intake manifold because your cobalt is Turbocharged if not mistaken
so use a 10 inch extention to make it easier on u,
the drain plug is under the motor itself on the oil pan facing towards the back of ur car use a 15mm wrench to loosen it up and let it drain till the oil stops

 

ACDelco is OEM, correct? What is the torque for the oilpan bolt?

 

I like to rotate my wheels while I let the oil drain.

Protip: break the nuts on the wheels loose before jacking that side of the car up.

 

Get an oil extractor and never have to jack your car up again to change your oil, i have one and yes it removes all the oil....

http://www.skymall.com/shopping/sear...il%20extractor

 

Doesn't seem like a good idea at all to try and pull old oil against gravity. You would always leave a little in the car.

I went ahead and spent a little extra for my oil change needs.

http://www.superlifts.com/fourpostlifts/sj7000.html