I thought someone had a quick tutorial on what fuse to pull for the compression test but I can't seam to find it after searching ...

Car still sounds like a Subaru after replacing the lash adjuster and rocker arm...
the lash adjuster has a little hole in it like it's supposed to be pointed a certain way but I don't think it matters much ..



Head looked good and everything looked fine but still sounds this way so my only step now is a compression test..


Update : https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/5891099-post1.html


Problem fixed

 

why u need to pull a fuse? take out coil pack, take off spark plug, put the tester in. 3 cranks and check compression...

 

This.

 

Don't think you need to pull a fuse...pull plugs and coils. However, the fuel pump fuse would be the one.

 

If you look on the fuse panel you'll see the one labeled fuel pump. With the car running pull the fuse and let the car stall on its own. Once it stalls pull all of the spark plugs and procede with the compression test.

 

yeah..I guess spraying fuel in there could through off results a bit.

 

You pull the fuel pump fuse to stop the fuel from playing with the readings. Fuel can seal up a small imperfection just like oil does.

 

i do it 3x per cyl and they have been consistent.
3cycles wont really put much fuel in the chamber

 

Hard to get a good reading on 3 compression strokes if you have a tester with a longish (16") hose. I'd do 5 or until I see it peak. Shop manual says to pull all 4 plugs at once so it'll crank fast I suppose. Easier to count the compression strokes this way also. Pull the fuel pump fuse and hope it dies out for lack of fuel. Might take a while to run it out of the fuel rail.

Hope you see 150-165 psi on all 4.

 

Me too but then I'll have no idea what it could be if compressions good...

Off to Ricer Zone

 

My car ran for over a minute with the fuel pump fuse pulled...I was wondering if I pulled the right fuse or not at the time.

 

just hold the throttle to the floor, it'll shut the injectors off, let it "hit" 5 times or so for a good number

 

I forgot about flood clearing, good call. The SM says to hold WOT anyway.

 

I'd pull the fuse anyway. Don't take any chances of skewing the results... But I'm pretty OCD when it comes to things like this lol.

 

it's the best/ fasted way IMHO

 

I do it for about 7 stokes or until my gas gauge peaks LOL I use it as a timer ...

Anyway Cylinder number one is at about 148 , mind you this is a cheaper Chinese compression tester from Auto Zone but seams to be decent.

It's got a hose, and also I did it with the engine warm.

1-148
2-124
3-127
4-125

number one seams to have the most pressure for some reason but they are all pretty close to each other ?

They gotta all be above 150 ?

 

......... Needing ideas here

 

any loss of coolant?

 

It seams to have been loosing coolant over time .

Approaching the 35k mark. I live in an extremely dry are tho so , I would think some coolant loss or seepage would be normal for all cars over time ..

I'm talking like maybe a cup of it in 35k ..


Otherwise not really sure . it does smell weird . but that might just be because it leaked some oil from the breather crank case hose to the turbo onto the manifold.


I know the smell and it does sort of smell like coolant but not really.

Oil doesn't have coolant in it.

I've been getting P303 consistently tried swapping all the ignition components around no dice.

 

The next step in a leakdown test. Seeing it has low comp on 3 out of 4 cyl. It seems to be a common denominator. I.e hg.
what are the mods?
Aso you should be losing coolant, no matter the temps.
I faulty pressure cap can let some steam off, but that's when they are failing.

 

you think the head gaskets leaking now . If I do A leak down I gotta have the pistons at the top of the stroke and then put about 80PSI in it right ? If someone knows the easy way to make sure its at the top of the stroke chime in please.

Fully bolted catless e85 7000 rpm rev limit .

 

put the comp tester in the cyl. when cranked to compression stroke it will build pressure on the guage. remove the guage and put something long into the cylinder. such as a small diameter dowel or a long screwdriver. just set it down easy. The rotate until it stops rizing back up if needed. then put the metered 80-100 psi into the cylinder and listen for when it's leaking into

 

So basically just set a screw driver in there and then wait till it reaches its optimum height .. Then fill it with air ? Or do you want the piston at the bottom ?

 

piston at top on the compression stroke, This will ensure the valves are closed. Otherwise it WILL seem as though its a valve

 

The readings will be lower at high elevations. Your post tag says in the mountains... How high up are you?