EDAL (anti-lag) mod
EDAL (anti-lag) mod
My last thread disintegrated into a flamefest with one closed minded individual in particular arguing. The thread got closed, but before it did, Redcomet303 mentioned a low budget EDAL mod that the Solstice turbo folks are doing.
I search the Cobalt SS forum and didn't find anything about this mod. So, I went over to the "Solstice forum" and looked in the "mods - engine 2.0 turbo" section and found the EDAL mod sticky post. I decided not to post the link in case it violated some policy here, but it's easy to find. I'll quote a description from that post to better explain the mod.
This mod doesn't increase peak power, it just allows the turbo to increase boost at lower RPM. There is some discussion about whether the ECU immediately relearns and negates the mod if you haven't tuned out the nanny. Others claim it still decrease the low end turbo lag even without a tune. Most testing will probably be required.
The cost of the mod is the price of a plastic "T" or "Y" vacuum connector and a vacuum cap. I would probably get a pack of small metal worm gear hose clamps too, but you could use zip ties. If you read all the way through the post, there are a few people that tried the mod, but didn't like it. The beauty is it's easy to reverse the mod. If you use the "Y" method (described later in the thread), it's easy to revert back to stock for warranty work.
the EDAL anti-lag is a great free mod. you can find more info about it on the solstice forums.
basically it bypasses the built in solenoid that controls boost but my ecu already re-learned. but for the first 10-15min it made a huge difference. IT took the cobalt from being utterly smooth to put you in the back of the seat. I can't wait to get a tune because that was just a taste.
basically it bypasses the built in solenoid that controls boost but my ecu already re-learned. but for the first 10-15min it made a huge difference. IT took the cobalt from being utterly smooth to put you in the back of the seat. I can't wait to get a tune because that was just a taste.
The basic idea of this mod is that normally the ECU holds back the turbo until a certain amount of pressure has been relieved via the Charge Air Bypass Valve (Solenoid) (which relieves vacuum pressure from the turbine after the throttle is released). This mod is designed to stop that behavior, resulting in more rapid turbo response (less turbo lag).
From a practical perspective it's about getting the turbo to respond at a lower throttle setting. Put another way, the turbo may kick in half way down the pedal travel instead of 3/4th of the way down, depending on circumstances. So now you can use the turbo in situations where it might not have kicked in before.
From a practical perspective it's about getting the turbo to respond at a lower throttle setting. Put another way, the turbo may kick in half way down the pedal travel instead of 3/4th of the way down, depending on circumstances. So now you can use the turbo in situations where it might not have kicked in before.
The cost of the mod is the price of a plastic "T" or "Y" vacuum connector and a vacuum cap. I would probably get a pack of small metal worm gear hose clamps too, but you could use zip ties. If you read all the way through the post, there are a few people that tried the mod, but didn't like it. The beauty is it's easy to reverse the mod. If you use the "Y" method (described later in the thread), it's easy to revert back to stock for warranty work.
It's a worthless mod, don't bother. If you want quicker spool up adjust the wastegate rod, the ecm will relearn and you'll go back to stock power but the turbo will still spool up quicker once you step on the throttle.
Interesting. Could you please explain why adjusting the wastegate rod works better and describe exactly how you adjust it?
I found this from lil goat on the Solstice forum regarding adjusting the wastegate rod:
Caution, several people found out they had overboost situations when they adjusted the rod too far, especially when they were tuned. Later on, this is what lil goat said:
Sounds like if you do decide to play with adjusting the wastegate rod, you should do gradual adjustment. Frank on the Solstice forum said this:
I found this from lil goat on the Solstice forum regarding adjusting the wastegate rod:
I was talking with Lyndon Wester today and he mentioned a trick I might try to get a little more HP, it's a waste gate adjustment. I did it this morning. the rod under the turbo has adjuster nuts, run the front one all the way to the stop then tighten up the back one, "shortening" the rod. I am seeing higher boost levels and it builds faster. I saw a nice improvement, try it if you like and no I don't know if it will void your warranty, no I don't know why it didn't come this way. If you have any reservations just don't do it. If you want to try it go for it, if not leave it alone. This is the rod you adjust, just run it down to the stop, it is under the turbo, just remove the heat shield and you will see it. I make no claims about anything but I like what it did.
I have learned a few things, first off every car takes the (wastegate) adjustment a little differently. They are not all the same stock. This is supposedly set by Borg-Warner before it is shipped to GM. They are all supposed to be the same, hence no adjustment procedure. From playing with mine that has a larger Dejon intercooler. I learned the intercooler makes a difference on it getting learned out, the MAP senses air pressure and temp, the intercooler by design reduces the temp, therefore the ECM learns out less. I kept a lot more of the increased boost than friends with the stock intercooler did. I was able to run the Westers Race tune with the adjustment 3 threads from Max and no knock. On the lastest test tunes from Westers I had to put it back to stock, or as close as I could get, I think this may be a thread or 2 more than stock was. I run it set with the adjuster in the middle, equal thread count from front and back. This works very well with my current tune, my car jumps hard when I get in it. I am pretty sure if I got back on the dyno I would be very close to 300 rwhp now, and somewhere in the 330 range on torque at the wheels. My recommendation is slowly move it forward until you notice a faster spool time, then leave it. The faster spool time is the biggest advantage that does not get learned out, and does not require much adjustment at all. This is a very touchy adjustment on a tuned car and can make big differences in performance, it is worth the effort to fine tune it especially if you have a larger intercooler.
It would be much safer if you adjusted very gradually, (one or two threads at a time) and monitored either all or some of the following: knock retard, spark retard, spark advance, inlet air temp, exhaust gas temp, CAT temp, air fuel ratios, boost level, etc.
Monitor these readings at different RPM levels, especially at 5K to redline. The key thing to watch for is an indication of the engine starting to go into knock, a sharp raise in EGT or CAT temp increases over the normal temps when the wastegate rod was in the stock location and/or a boost level exceeding 23 pounds. These are very good indications of going too far with your rod adjustment.
Monitor these readings at different RPM levels, especially at 5K to redline. The key thing to watch for is an indication of the engine starting to go into knock, a sharp raise in EGT or CAT temp increases over the normal temps when the wastegate rod was in the stock location and/or a boost level exceeding 23 pounds. These are very good indications of going too far with your rod adjustment.
Last edited by batboy; Jan 18, 2009 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
It works better because you're physically shortening the wastegate arm to keep the wastegate flapper closed, the ecm doesn't seem to be able to compensate quickly enough once you step on the throttle. However once you are at full throttle then it'll eventually lower the boost back to stock. I tried this before and logged the gains, but after a week the boost settled down back to stock, but it still spooled quicker than stock once you stepped on it.
Stock

Modded

I don't suggest you go as far as that if you don't have any devices to monitor the knock retard/afr and whatnot. Also make sure you tighten the nuts properly, otherwise they'll come loose and you'll get a p0299 underboost check engine light.
Stock

Modded

I don't suggest you go as far as that if you don't have any devices to monitor the knock retard/afr and whatnot. Also make sure you tighten the nuts properly, otherwise they'll come loose and you'll get a p0299 underboost check engine light.
I agree, we need more info. This is all new to me. All I know is that the Solstice folks are doing these mods, so I posted this info here. I don't claim to know one way or the other if it's good or bad.
yes this is new to some....but adjusting the gate is very old......you can do this and it will go back to stock boost at high rpms...its work real good for the spool...the only thing is fuel cut..(fuel cut feels like you hit the redline..starts poping...so you would need to let of the gas)......almost every turbo car can do this.....
for those who are geting email tunes dont do this mods cuase every cvar is diff...
would work verynice if dyno tuned(hp tuner)...with a tune i think you can make hold the boost alot longer or hold it all the way......
for those who are geting email tunes dont do this mods cuase every cvar is diff...
would work verynice if dyno tuned(hp tuner)...with a tune i think you can make hold the boost alot longer or hold it all the way......
whitebalt is correct any corrections to the rod or disconnecting any lines will result ecu relearn, you must get a tune to make any power changes final without relearn occuring. and if you are really interested in anti lag you should really know what it is? anti lag system you must rev the engine and let of the gas repeatedly, a computer or in ecu adjustment dumps lots of fuel on decel of the engine resulting in gas entering eghaust manifold. and when reved up the gas lites before turbo and the pressure created spools the turbo. the system is very harmful to the engine especially if stock exhaust manifold is used, the pressure expansion is powerfull enough to explode the exhaust manifold. of course the main use comes from rally in which they have a lag plate installed in the exhaust as a regulation slowing the turbo spool on launch and the system was designed to of course set them straight. since the motors are built every race they do not care about the harm to the engine, but on a factory everyday driver would highly consider this mod as not recommended.
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