So I went to the dyno today with my buddy who has a 04 mach 1 mustang (twin 65 mm throttle body, GIANT CAI, header back exhaust, and a tune) and my other buddy who has a Chevy cruise (Injen CAI, solid motor mount, trifecta)

and the results are in but theres some debate on what i would REALLY be pushing to the ground... Ill post up my dynos as I modded the car:

with GMS1 ONLY:




with GMS1, Injen CAI/IC piping, Bad-Mab catless DP, MPx 3" catback, no tune:





FINALLY

same as other mods but now with TTR solid motormounts and a M-Dub 27PSI tune:

notice the wavy peak...




and now with RPMs




If you listen from 17-21 seconds in you can hear the tires break loose and the traction control kick in during my peak numbers so I think Ive got quite a few more ponies under the hood!

[*youtube]http://youtu.be/j_7qJEIo_5o[/*youtube]

 

and if you were curious the Cruze pushed 139whp and 152wtq

the mach 1 did 297whp and 318wtq


AND the SS/TC is for sale... hint hint haha

 

Sorry to ask but what tune do you have!!!???

 

Nice numbers. The exhaust really unleashes these things.

But that is clutch slip, not tire spin. Unless the car isnt securely strapped down, it takes alot more than 400 ft lbs to out run the rollers.

 

no its mainly my bald ass tires. you can see smoke coming out the exhaust because the traction control is kicking in and limiting the power. its not revving up like the clutch is slipping it just had the traction pop on and limit the power to the wheels

 

so all you have is gms1?

 

thats not much of a gain over the GMS1 & mods for a custom tune.....

also its STD correction... which is inflated

 

so you do know that you are supposed to dyno the vehicle with the esc off correct? press and hold the traction controll button down until it flashes esc off in the dash and then you will have no esc, tcs, or abs all systems are put on a standby condition until reactivated by pressing the button again or shutting the vehicle off wich will defalut them to the origional enabled condition. that will change your numbers...8)

 

im thinking im around 315-320ish whp if i can get the tires to hook up since theyre bald but 383wtq is a HIGH improvement over 318wtq

as for the esc off yes i know it should be off but it wasnt until after the dyno numbers came back that i figured he left it on. i wasnt the one behind the wheel of course

 

So who did your tuning.... esc takes alot out... if this is a conserve tune like 22-23 -lbs and low timing its good... for the mild bolt ons.

 

make sure its off as i stated yo should be in the 320-330 whp range with that torque bro so you should have some left on both whp and wtrq if your making that with it on.

he said m-dub tuned it hes pretty good he plays with all of us on the hpt forum

 

its a 27psi by M-Dub so thats why i think the numbers arent matching up.... i KNOW its got more

 

yeah i know matt. im on the hptuner forum lol. but i dont need help so i dont post and if someone needs help they ask.. There was a guy which i tune he made 303 whp and 427 ft lbs but his issue was the esc but also he threw a tune on the car without datalogging it and also let the car sit for 30 mins before dynoing it so it was heat soaked and it had bad plugs so he was running 13* timing and 23.5 lbs ..... i was like wtf how did you get so low of whp. (I looked at his log when he dynoed he had it had kr everywhere lol. ( the knock sensors on are cars are wierd because if you dont driv ethe car for a bit the car will just randomly throw kr everywhere and run 1 lambda till it goes into closed loop... i told him to redyno after he replaced his plugs. (and after we log some more) So im waiting ........

 

Usually when ESC is left on, it wont rev past 4500-5K on a dyno

 

yeah he said stock timing was 10* with GMS1 and he pushed it to 18* and took out all the torque management as well as the closed loop.

i know the standard correction factor is slightly inflated but my first dyno run the shop put it on standard and i didnt know the difference at the time so from then on to compare the numbers i had to stick with the same correction factor to see how much improvement over the previous run.

i could probably use some new plugs and an intercooler as well but im trying to get rid of it so i can get a LS1 Camaro but if i cant sell it then ill be looking into a e-47 or 50 tune and build the motor up but who knows.

 

I tuned a guy up here on E47 (his only mods were DP, CS IC, Intake) And he got 327/404 on SAE. (22-23PSI) And this was with very conservative timing. There is a lot more in your car if your are getting this on 27 PSI with your mods on a dynojet with STD correction. You could have been heatsoaked... etc

 

i could put some money on it since we drove roughly 20-30 min to get to the dyno and i sat and waited for my buddies cruze to dyno and my stock IC

 

yeah i dont get it either. alot of dyno shops let the cars sit for like 10-30 mins and just dyno after startup.. can you say heat soak like a ****..!!

 

what can i do to solve that? dyno it asap or wait longer?

 

Let the car sit an hour, and before running on the dyno you want them to put the fans right on the intercooler for atleast 10 minutes for best results. Or just run E and dont worry about heat soaking effects. You still dont wanna run the car till its coolant temp is 180 degrees.

 

when the car was shut off coolant was at 185 but next time ill be sure to give it some more time

 

+1. I experienced this myself first hand when i tried to dyno my car back when I just had a Trifecta tune. The dyno operator and myself were so confused as to what was going on. He's like "it keeps shutting down like its hitting the rev limiter at 5k ish" and I'm like man I dunno whats going on. I get down the road from the shop, after paying him half the dyno fee since we couldn't get it working right, and I realize he had it in competitive mode and not esc off.

 

Please forgive my ignorance but could someone explain to me why you'd shoot white/grey smoke during a dyno run if your tires slip and the engine cuts power? Shouldn't it be black (burnt fuel)?

Great numbers man. It amazes me every time to see these cars put down 380+wtq with little modification. Just awesome!

 

Yea, for sure. My buddy's grandprix gt would show 6 degrees knock when you'd cut the wheel hard, just swerve quick. Giving it no gas at all. Knock sensors in general are weird.

 

1. Definitely clutch slip. It's EXACTLY the sound and duration my car (and every other SS/TC) had when the clutch was slipping. You would not have kept making power if your tires were spinning at that low of an rpm, you don't have a huge power spike which is what causes tire spin on a dyno.

2. The clutch slip happened at low RPM and does not affect your peak HP. Your numbers are right on for a 93 tune.