front tow hook
Thread Starter
Joined: 07-14-08
Posts: 12,039
Likes: 156
From: canada
front tow hook
ok so i got my tow hooks today, question is, how the heck do it put on the front one? to what do i bolt it, for those who have the front one? pics would also be nice
Senior Member
Joined: 08-15-07
Posts: 696
Likes: 1
From: Clovis, NM.
Like said above, it bolts to the bottom of the crash bar, bumper what ever you want to call it.
Remove your lower grill and look up, you will see the metal bumper.
This is the bumper you mount it to the bottom.
Remove your lower grill and look up, you will see the metal bumper.
This is the bumper you mount it to the bottom.
Thread Starter
Joined: 07-14-08
Posts: 12,039
Likes: 156
From: canada
ya my previous message posted late. lol
dangit im gonna have to remove the bumper to do this arnt i
dangit im gonna have to remove the bumper to do this arnt i
Last edited by tomj77; Jan 17, 2012 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
u dont need to remove the bumper. email me i will send you a how to if you purchased it from me. I should have sent it to you already. one hole is already made in the bottom of the crash bar if you need to mount offset to clear a front license plate. thanks
The Tow Hooks sell for $95.00fr/ $135.00 usd a pair. Quick disconnect pins are $45 a set, $25 for a single Q-D (Q-D Pins, otherwise known as a Steddy Pin) Colors options, Candy colored towhooks add 40.00. Both parts of the hook are powdercoated, the bumper attachment part is always black, the removable hook is standard regulation red.
The "haverty" spacers (called Haverty after Rallyracer who updated us with the need for one) come one to a tow hook for Cobalt, and two for the front of a Redline. I have not perfected the rear Redline tow hook install.
The question of 4 door sedan rear install compared to 2 door SS coupe Cobalt is answered thusly: " put it through the slot for the rear license plate marker light offset if you want to leave the marker light operational, or move the marker light. It will require a long bracket for the rear sedan/g5 coupe bumper and if you want it for that car for the rear let me know in advance
Pictures of the Cobalt 4 dr sedan and the NON SS coupe, both Cobalt and G5 show that the rear install can be done the same way:
HHR fits under the bumper as well at the front either offset or centered, works the same. Have not done a rear install yet
The latest iteration of tow hooks are jig'd/tig'd/machined/pc'd both parts. Completely interchangeable. Socket head stainless cap screw pivot, "Haverty" spacers front and rear. Colors no extra cost so long as you dont want candy. Candy colors take a substrate (base coat) so take longer, add 40 bux... . So it goes. I must say that the tow hook works really well I load cars into the trailer with the tow hook (all our track cars have them of course) and mounted off the bumper beam zero issues for strength etc...
Pictures:
The optional "steddy" feature means the tow hook can be quickly removed, placed in the glove box, and no-one has to know you have a tow hook. Like this:
...
The hardware comes with washers and bolts to length. NO washers on the metal tow hook plate, only on the bumper side....
The rear of an SS/SC or SS/TC will go into the lower valance on the side opposite to the muffler tip. It will attach to the underneath of the rear bumper beam. On the Sedans and NON SS coupes, the rear will fit through the license plate slot and attach to the TOP of the rear bumper beam. They may be some trimming of the styrofoam bumper support but thats easy with an exacto knife.
The front attaches to the underneath of the front bumper for all cars.
Some basic tools needed include a 7/16 drill but with a 3/8 taper chank or use 3/8 bolts to mount. Best is to use an xmas tree UNIBIT that really cuts through the hard steel bumper.You could use 2.5 inch long bolts in sae measurements. I would recommend (as I now supply the mounting hardware) that you use slightly larger holes for the bolts, so measure twice, then drill an 1/8 or 1/4 hole, then drill it out larger... SLOW drill speed. The washers go on the bumper side, the metal tow hook plate needs no washer its a gigantic washer itself....
The Ion takes two "haverty" spacers for the front; it uses the long blade attachment from the Cobalt rear for the front. Your choice to use two bolt or three bolt fixing.
Offer up the mount plate, make marks and drill the alloy cross bumper beam (Redline) or steel beam (Cobalt)
Trivia Quiz? Q.what Cobalt had an alloy front bumper beam? A. Time Attack Cobalt.
The rear of the mount plate should be flush to the rear edge of the bumper beam. That positions it correctly.
Use a good quality drill bit, at a slow drill speed.
Tape the Haverty spacers in place aligning them up with the 2 or 3 bolts you are using. Then offer up the mount plate and using nuts with captive washers or a washer and nut. mount it up.
If you have anaftermarket front grille on your Redline (they came without) cut a slot to clear the mount plate flush to the top of the grille, 1/2 inch deep and as wide as the mount plate.
Fit your tow hook and cross bolt.
If you wish you can have a lanyard and a quick disconect pit pin, or a color other than regulation red.
Tow hook front install update # whatever for SC cars with lower opening with OEM horizontal slat grille- two Haverty spacers (requires longer installation bolts of course) will permit installation without cutting the grille.
done.
The Tow Hooks sell for $95.00fr/ $135.00 usd a pair. Quick disconnect pins are $45 a set, $25 for a single Q-D (Q-D Pins, otherwise known as a Steddy Pin) Colors options, Candy colored towhooks add 40.00. Both parts of the hook are powdercoated, the bumper attachment part is always black, the removable hook is standard regulation red.
The "haverty" spacers (called Haverty after Rallyracer who updated us with the need for one) come one to a tow hook for Cobalt, and two for the front of a Redline. I have not perfected the rear Redline tow hook install.
The question of 4 door sedan rear install compared to 2 door SS coupe Cobalt is answered thusly: " put it through the slot for the rear license plate marker light offset if you want to leave the marker light operational, or move the marker light. It will require a long bracket for the rear sedan/g5 coupe bumper and if you want it for that car for the rear let me know in advance
Pictures of the Cobalt 4 dr sedan and the NON SS coupe, both Cobalt and G5 show that the rear install can be done the same way:
HHR fits under the bumper as well at the front either offset or centered, works the same. Have not done a rear install yet
The latest iteration of tow hooks are jig'd/tig'd/machined/pc'd both parts. Completely interchangeable. Socket head stainless cap screw pivot, "Haverty" spacers front and rear. Colors no extra cost so long as you dont want candy. Candy colors take a substrate (base coat) so take longer, add 40 bux... . So it goes. I must say that the tow hook works really well I load cars into the trailer with the tow hook (all our track cars have them of course) and mounted off the bumper beam zero issues for strength etc...
Pictures:
The optional "steddy" feature means the tow hook can be quickly removed, placed in the glove box, and no-one has to know you have a tow hook. Like this:
...
The hardware comes with washers and bolts to length. NO washers on the metal tow hook plate, only on the bumper side....
The rear of an SS/SC or SS/TC will go into the lower valance on the side opposite to the muffler tip. It will attach to the underneath of the rear bumper beam. On the Sedans and NON SS coupes, the rear will fit through the license plate slot and attach to the TOP of the rear bumper beam. They may be some trimming of the styrofoam bumper support but thats easy with an exacto knife.
The front attaches to the underneath of the front bumper for all cars.
Some basic tools needed include a 7/16 drill but with a 3/8 taper chank or use 3/8 bolts to mount. Best is to use an xmas tree UNIBIT that really cuts through the hard steel bumper.You could use 2.5 inch long bolts in sae measurements. I would recommend (as I now supply the mounting hardware) that you use slightly larger holes for the bolts, so measure twice, then drill an 1/8 or 1/4 hole, then drill it out larger... SLOW drill speed. The washers go on the bumper side, the metal tow hook plate needs no washer its a gigantic washer itself....
The Ion takes two "haverty" spacers for the front; it uses the long blade attachment from the Cobalt rear for the front. Your choice to use two bolt or three bolt fixing.
Offer up the mount plate, make marks and drill the alloy cross bumper beam (Redline) or steel beam (Cobalt)
Trivia Quiz? Q.what Cobalt had an alloy front bumper beam? A. Time Attack Cobalt.
The rear of the mount plate should be flush to the rear edge of the bumper beam. That positions it correctly.
Use a good quality drill bit, at a slow drill speed.
Tape the Haverty spacers in place aligning them up with the 2 or 3 bolts you are using. Then offer up the mount plate and using nuts with captive washers or a washer and nut. mount it up.
If you have anaftermarket front grille on your Redline (they came without) cut a slot to clear the mount plate flush to the top of the grille, 1/2 inch deep and as wide as the mount plate.
Fit your tow hook and cross bolt.
If you wish you can have a lanyard and a quick disconect pit pin, or a color other than regulation red.
Tow hook front install update # whatever for SC cars with lower opening with OEM horizontal slat grille- two Haverty spacers (requires longer installation bolts of course) will permit installation without cutting the grille.
done.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Jan 17, 2012 at 10:17 PM.
More:
decide where you want it. I recommend that you place it off center curb side so you are protected from traffic if you use it in real life.
cross bolt here for reference only insert from other side
Clean car before install and use masking tape to protect the bumper as you remove the grilles and install the hook plates.
there is a hole already for the front bumper tab, Key off that for one hole closest to the license plate. remove the tc grille' first use a screw driver to pry off the metal retaining clips then use a plastic wedge lever to release tension on the plastic retaining clip and remove grille.
measure and mark the place you have to cut the front lower grille to clear the tow hook bracket.
Remove the plastic lock pin cut the bumper tab off , and about 1/4 inch of bumper cover to let the tow hook install flat. Mark your two other holes if you key off the one I suggest. Use a small drill make a hole. then use a unibit at 3/8, to make a clean hole
install. if a q-d run it from behind the plate. same with cap screw. In this install I drilled one hole only at the front and used the existing one from the bumper tab which is cut off:
Always tighten the nut onto the bolt. Use the washer provided on the bumper side; the tow hook plate does not need a washer, the bolt head goes against this...
at the front, locked in down position. It will lift up easily and stay up.
rear same thing.
remove grilles.
you will need a spacer,
make a slot in the rear grille to clear the tow hook, you will leave the outer rim of the rear grille in place. drill etc. use 3 M helicopter tape to protect the paint when the hook hangs down. I lock them up so that if folks bump u in the parking lot they will perforate their bumper - just reward.
decide where you want it. I recommend that you place it off center curb side so you are protected from traffic if you use it in real life.
cross bolt here for reference only insert from other side
Clean car before install and use masking tape to protect the bumper as you remove the grilles and install the hook plates.
there is a hole already for the front bumper tab, Key off that for one hole closest to the license plate. remove the tc grille' first use a screw driver to pry off the metal retaining clips then use a plastic wedge lever to release tension on the plastic retaining clip and remove grille.
measure and mark the place you have to cut the front lower grille to clear the tow hook bracket.
Remove the plastic lock pin cut the bumper tab off , and about 1/4 inch of bumper cover to let the tow hook install flat. Mark your two other holes if you key off the one I suggest. Use a small drill make a hole. then use a unibit at 3/8, to make a clean hole
install. if a q-d run it from behind the plate. same with cap screw. In this install I drilled one hole only at the front and used the existing one from the bumper tab which is cut off:
Always tighten the nut onto the bolt. Use the washer provided on the bumper side; the tow hook plate does not need a washer, the bolt head goes against this...
at the front, locked in down position. It will lift up easily and stay up.rear same thing.
remove grilles.
you will need a spacer,
make a slot in the rear grille to clear the tow hook, you will leave the outer rim of the rear grille in place. drill etc. use 3 M helicopter tape to protect the paint when the hook hangs down. I lock them up so that if folks bump u in the parking lot they will perforate their bumper - just reward.
ya i had to do an LS bumper and fender the other day. after a while it gets easy to remove it, but doing it in your driveway is a pita, and no place to put the bumper without damage unless its 80 degrees and the grass is cut lol....
Thread Starter
Joined: 07-14-08
Posts: 12,039
Likes: 156
From: canada
Agreed, I hit the ditch so often with my old car, always had issues getting it out, I figure I'll get ahead of the game this time lol hope I never need em though
Thread Starter
Joined: 07-14-08
Posts: 12,039
Likes: 156
From: canada
OMG what is that crash beam in the back made of titanium??? took me 2 fricken hours to drill the 3 holes through it, i had titanium coated bits. **** that was a pissoff
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