GMS1 WITH MODS... what you got?
I have GMS1 with dejon upper charge pipe, K&N intake, Forge BPV, and ZZP catted DP. My car does go limp mode when I do cold start, I have a thread about it acting up. I have my K&N filter the way people say it should be angled that way you don't run lean or have to re turn for A/F ratio. Can someone upload a pic and verify that I have mine correctly? I am thinking this is what is wrong with my car now.
I'm not 100% sure on this, if this is just an Ohio thing or national, but I know there's a law out there that protects you from dealerships claiming aftermarket parts void the warranty. Your parts shouldn't void the warranty especially since you're on GMS1 - the actual ECU parameters are still under GM's control. I would call GM's Customer Service before going to a dealer.
it all depends on the dealer from what ive gathered. i bought my old LS balt and the service manager and i talked for about 20 minutes,i asked him if an intake and exhaust would void warranty. he instantly said yes and then i never returned to that dealership. the dealership i go to now is awesome. they never question me about anything,besides the tech of reflashed my ECU when i had GMS1 installed,he asked if i could give it the beans. i said you bet your ass you can.
it all depends on the dealership though,if you blow a motor and you have GMS1 along with a intake and DP to go along with it,you might want to throw stock parts on before you go in.
it all depends on the dealership though,if you blow a motor and you have GMS1 along with a intake and DP to go along with it,you might want to throw stock parts on before you go in.
I have GMS1 with dejon upper charge pipe, K&N intake, Forge BPV, and ZZP catted DP. My car does go limp mode when I do cold start, I have a thread about it acting up. I have my K&N filter the way people say it should be angled that way you don't run lean or have to re turn for A/F ratio. Can someone upload a pic and verify that I have mine correctly? I am thinking this is what is wrong with my car now.
I have GMS1 with the K&N intake and a TurboXS Dp with the hi-flow cat. I'd be curious to see what kind of power others have with this setup.
i got a GMS1 with k&n intake. cracked my block a week after installed. GM told me to **** myself and i got stuck with a 6 grand bill for new engine. warranty? well my car only had 60 k on it, and they voided it. i went into detail in a different post if you want to look it up. with new engine in for over 8 months now, same setup, car runs fine. is the LNF junk? it can be. im scared to really do anything else to it.
Do you have some sort of scan gauge (intercepter or dashhawk) that you can check your fuel trims with? That will really tell you the story of what's going on. I have to constantly adjust my K&N filter as the seasons change otherwise my car gets too lean in the spring and fall compared to the summer.
I have GMS1 with the K&N intake and a TurboXS Dp with the hi-flow cat. I'd be curious to see what kind of power others have with this setup.
I have GMS1 with the K&N intake and a TurboXS Dp with the hi-flow cat. I'd be curious to see what kind of power others have with this setup.
My issue is that the dealer typically points to an aftermarrket part, says that's causing your problem, and stops working on actually finding IF that is actually the case. Chevrolet's customer service line is semi useless as they may really, really want to help, but their policies prevent them from being able to force the dealers hand and make them look at a problem without the aftermarket parts blinders on.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...ket-mods-7439/
I have GMS1 with dejon upper charge pipe, K&N intake, Forge BPV, and ZZP catted DP. My car does go limp mode when I do cold start, I have a thread about it acting up. I have my K&N filter the way people say it should be angled that way you don't run lean or have to re turn for A/F ratio. Can someone upload a pic and verify that I have mine correctly? I am thinking this is what is wrong with my car now.
Another miss informed consumer. Know your rights as a consumer before taking a car to the dealership, there's a law to protect consumers.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...ket-mods-7439/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...ket-mods-7439/
And of course I know most mods don't hurt aspects of the engine and other parts, but try explaining how our cars work to a service manager or GM tech. Their head will spin around backwards and tell you to **** off.
The only really lucky people hear are the ones that have a "friend" at a dealership.
New to the community, but have been reading the forums for quite awhile-
I have the injen intake, which has been trouble free, and also installed their charge pipes when i installed the big zzp intercooler, and have been nothing but happy. Running the gms1 tune, but am getting ready to install trifecta setup. Really noticed a difference on gms1 after the intercooler swap- it limits boost quickly under wot. Car will flash to 22psi, and drop due to achieving max allowable gms1 h.p. fast. So the intercooler does make a difference, didnt do it as much before with stock intercooler. And no i don't have leaks, just big brother g.m. looking over my shoulder. More noticable when its cold, verses hot (better air). Hope this helps.
I have the injen intake, which has been trouble free, and also installed their charge pipes when i installed the big zzp intercooler, and have been nothing but happy. Running the gms1 tune, but am getting ready to install trifecta setup. Really noticed a difference on gms1 after the intercooler swap- it limits boost quickly under wot. Car will flash to 22psi, and drop due to achieving max allowable gms1 h.p. fast. So the intercooler does make a difference, didnt do it as much before with stock intercooler. And no i don't have leaks, just big brother g.m. looking over my shoulder. More noticable when its cold, verses hot (better air). Hope this helps.
P2195 is the code. They told me aftermarket parts are the reason why... They will not even give me business till I put my car back to stock
My papers from the dealership sate and I quote...
"P2195 Lean code found. Called Tac, was advised to check fuel pressure and injector balance. Also smoke tested intake. No concerns found. Custer advised to return vehicle to stock equipment before further diagnoses."
My 6th trip to the stealer ship and I feel like my car is a big POS. I have 24K miles on it and just over a year I have had it. I feel like I drive a 87' car.
My papers from the dealership sate and I quote...
"P2195 Lean code found. Called Tac, was advised to check fuel pressure and injector balance. Also smoke tested intake. No concerns found. Custer advised to return vehicle to stock equipment before further diagnoses."
My 6th trip to the stealer ship and I feel like my car is a big POS. I have 24K miles on it and just over a year I have had it. I feel like I drive a 87' car.
Do you have some sort of scan gauge (intercepter or dashhawk) that you can check your fuel trims with? That will really tell you the story of what's going on. I have to constantly adjust my K&N filter as the seasons change otherwise my car gets too lean in the spring and fall compared to the summer.
I have GMS1 with the K&N intake and a TurboXS Dp with the hi-flow cat. I'd be curious to see what kind of power others have with this setup.
I have GMS1 with the K&N intake and a TurboXS Dp with the hi-flow cat. I'd be curious to see what kind of power others have with this setup.
Replace your wideband now before you end up with engine damage from being in constant open loop (A/F is not corrected even when car goes lean also normally the car will not enter PE at WOT so it stays very lean). They cost about $70 and can be installed from above in about 10 minutes or so.
gms1 with catless dp exhaust upper ic pipe kn dropin zzp intake tube and i made 250whp and 295tq but it was also about 95 degrees in cali at the time lol
only thing ive added since is a zzp intercooler but doubt it would make a huge different if and when i re dyno
only thing ive added since is a zzp intercooler but doubt it would make a huge different if and when i re dyno
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My mods are in my sig. I run GMS1 in winter and dyno'd at 285whp (unfortunately no torque numbers were available).
I used to be a "Hahn all the way" guy but I changed my religion. I'm actually replacing my upper CP with ZZP this month and will also use ZZP's lower CP. Too many issues with Hahn's lower CP. I got their "special GMS1 version" that would facilitate the GMS1 MAP sensor and it tore through my A/C harness.
With GMS1, you don't "need" after market CP and IC, but it's also not "just for show". When you do get an aftermarket tune, the aluminum pipes are better equipped to hold the higher pressure and the bigger IC will keep your temps down. Not an issue in normal street driving but when you auto-X or road race a bigger IC is a huge advantage.
I used to be a "Hahn all the way" guy but I changed my religion. I'm actually replacing my upper CP with ZZP this month and will also use ZZP's lower CP. Too many issues with Hahn's lower CP. I got their "special GMS1 version" that would facilitate the GMS1 MAP sensor and it tore through my A/C harness.
With GMS1, you don't "need" after market CP and IC, but it's also not "just for show". When you do get an aftermarket tune, the aluminum pipes are better equipped to hold the higher pressure and the bigger IC will keep your temps down. Not an issue in normal street driving but when you auto-X or road race a bigger IC is a huge advantage.


