On cold start sometimes my car will die or spit and sputter like its going to. You can't move it for the first 10 seconds or so. After warm its fine fires up perfect. My mods are K and N SRI, Catless downpipe, and a trifecta tune. It does this on the stock tune and the only code thats thrown is the 02 sensor code from the downpipe I'm assuming. You guys got any ideas?

 

vac leak?

 

Nope just checked for one. It seems like I heard something about the filter placement on the KandN SRI would cause them to have driveability problems does that sound possible?

 

Well retune. Vice should be able to figure it out.what code is it?...

 

P0140

 

It does it on the stock tune. It ran fine during the summer just started after it started getting colder.

 

Bump

 

I had the same issue in the winter months as well a while back but only after removing the cat warm-up cycle. The way I personally resolved the issue was raising the idle a bit for only when the engine is cold and richened the idle up a tad until the engine temp hit 100*.

With that being said, when you say that you still have this issue even on the stock tune, do you mean by "switching off" the Trifecta tune with whatever you're using as a selector switch this still happens, or do you mean you still have the issue when you completely reflash the ecm with the stock tune file? Yes there is a difference mind you..

Oh and before anyone busts my stones.. yes I realize what I did is basically a mild version of a cat warm-up cycle. The main difference here is my setup is not nearly as rich and more importantly the obnoxious exhaust note of the cat warm-up cycle that is near and dear to everyone's hearts is definitely NOT present..

 

The way it happens, as soon as it starts it jump to a little under 2k and stays there for say 2 seconds then its like its running out of gas and will either die or drop straight from say 1800 to 200 rpm then catch itself and jump back up to 1500 and while rpms are down its going a boooooot a booooot and you can rev it to try to clear it but it still sputters and then all at once it takes the fuel and jumps to say 2500. I'm gonna try putting the stock downpipe back on and see if that light will stay out if not I'm thinking my actual 02 sensor is bad. I have the mpx downpipe with the defouler and they said I should never get a cel with the defouler tuned or not.

 

Yeah I got the same issue, and was thinking it may be the O2 sensor.
I watched them taking mine off and putting it on when they change the down pipe out and the guy was rough as hell with it. He burned him self and flew into a rage and was riping and pulling . Wires could be screwed up.
I don't have my jack or stands here, so can't take a look.

Let me know how this goes.

It;s kind of odd that it only happens when cold though and fine after the cars up to full operating temp. Mine does the same thing, but you'd think if it were the sensor it wouldn't car about the temp.

I don't know. Be nice to get this resolved though.

 

So last night I was logging, but couldn't catch an issues as my car was still warm from the drive home. so this moring I get flutter again, no backfire or jumping this time, but still I have issue in the cold, but once the car gets warmed up for a while all is fine.

 

P0140 is a code for your O2 sensor... generally your downpipe will throw a p0420 (catalyst inefficiency). Check the connections on you O2 sensors... your wideband might be on the fritz as they say... I forget if it's p0140 or p0141 of the wideband... I don't have my computer in front of me to look at the books cuz I'm at work

 

Subd

 

I can tell you that:

[ECM] P0140 - HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Old) (Immature)

because my car through one recently.

I just don't get why this only happens during the cold.

What would the connection be?

I hate replacing things that aren't broken to have the issue still be there.

Also won't be covered under warranty now.

 

Do our O2 sensors have the heater on them? If they do, it sounds like yours is dead. Try a new O2 sensor. I realize they are expensive, but you gotta try something.

 

Any one know this off hand?

 

Ok, according to my local parts dealer, they are heated. I'd say the heater part of the sensor or the power supply to the heater of the sensor is your issue.

 

Damn noob that put my downpipe in.
I didn't have a jack or anything, so just took it to a muffler shop.
They let the newest youngest guy do it, and laughed at him the whole time.
He freaked out on the thing and burned him self and was ripping and tearing...
Figured he'd screw it up...
Worked good for all summer though.
Not so good now.
Colder now.

Well that licks.

Where's a good place to get one.
I'm in canada, so this side of the boarder would be nice if possible.
If you guys know of anywhere.

 

Sensor 2, oh so that's not the down pipe sensor, it's the other one.

Well then that should still be under warranty I'd think.

 

Sensor 1 is the wideband, sensor 2 is in the downpipe... regardless of which one it will not be warrantied because you changed the exhaust. This happens when they put the O2 sensor in without putting some twist on the wires... sometimes the harness can get messed up so be careful when you put in the new one.

 

SO, noob question. I keep reading about the twists in the wire, but I haven't really checked that out.
If the wire isn't twisted, then would just twisting it now maybe fix it?

Also how do you install a new one? How does the wire connect to the sensor?

 

So if Sensor 2 is just for emission checking then how would this be causing my issue?

 

The O2 sensor threads in... if you just toss it in there it puts tension on the wires. You want to let it hang straight then, put a few counter clockwise rotations in the wires by spinning the O2 sensor the opposite direction than you would if you were installing it.

It is just threaded in the downpipe its not hard to remove and install. The O2 sensor is connected just like any other sensor, its got like a 4 or 6 pin connector or something. If you are going to install a new one... just remove the old one and thread in the new one and then connect the wires so there is no question about the wires being twisted up.

 

So wouldn't it be easier to thread the sensor in first and then connect the wire after?
Then you wouldn't have to do counter clockwise twist first, and could just connect it straight in?

So when the guy was removing my O2 Sensor he took a blow torch to it. I'm guessing that may not have done it any good ether. I know the pipe would get hot anyway, but I'm sure after a certain temp things start to go bad.

 

I can tell you I had the same issue your having but it was the rear evap sensor that was broke on mine. Mind you yours is probably the O2 sensor but just saying