I don't know. I'm still kind of confused by this. It doesn't make sense to be for Sensor 2 to be causing the issues I'm seeing if Sensor 2 is just for emission checking. I could see sensor 1 causing it. I haven't had any codes thrown though for sensor 1. Did yours throw and codes when you were having these issues?

 

Mine had the problem for around 6 months till it threw a code, problem started when it got a lil cold too. But... if your having a code for the O2 sensor and not the downpipe sensor then yours is the problem.

 

So this morning was by far the coldest morning yet. Car was iced over.
You'd think if this was cold related I would be having back fire today, of all days.
I only had some flutter, but not as bad as my start yesterday morning.

All my issues are always on start up though, going through first, flutter shifting to second, then backfire midway through second, around 2400 rpm, the a little more flutter shitting to third.

Typical bad cold start I have. Then as I continue to drive everything becomes fine. I can go back out after the car has warmed, start it again, drive away fine.

Wish I lived near someone else. The mechanics here don't see to be very knowledgeable of turbos... and I really don't feel like paying them to sit there and learn... and don't feel like replacing one part after another to have the issue still remain. Wish I had someone here that I knew knew what the hell they were doing.

 

Well... there saying the heater on the O2 Sensor that'd do it...

 

Is that the upstream one?

 

Unless your pulling a code for it... Otherwise I'd recommend looking into the rear evap canister.

 

There are two ways to replace the downpipe: disconnect the O2 sensor from the connector before unscrewing it from the downpipe (this is the right way to do it, and not disconnecting the O2 sensor from the connector and unscrewing it from the downpipe by rotating the wiring, which inevitably stresses the wiring (wrong way to do it.) If the dude didn't disconnect your O2 sensor from this connector before unscrewing it he could have broken a wire, so sometimes it contacts, and sometimes it doesn't:




The best thing you could do is replace each of your O2 sensors, independently, and see if the issue goes away. Don't do them both together because you won't know which one caused the issue.

 

So does that O2 Sensor come with the wire? It looks pretty attached to it. I have a feeling the wires are broke the way he was ripping and taring on them... I had a bad feeling about all that...

 

Yeah, that whole length of wire comes with it. There is no swivel point at the O2 sensor and no point of temporary connection at the O2 sensor. It's all one piece, basically, and the section where the wire covering has that accordion boot is not meant to be twisted. It can be bent, but definitely not twisted. Disconnecting the sensor is not hard, so I don't understand why anyone would twist these things to begin with. It's just the wrong way to do it.

 

Ok, so I'm still confused. So the one in the downpipe is just for emissions only, and position 1 is in the manifold which is the wideband, and sounds like what would be causing the issue, correct?
So then the one in the downpipe can't be the issue as it's only for emissions test, Right?

Any one got any nice pics of the one on the manifold then? Google was no help. and I hear I should stick to AC Delco and not after market?

ACDELCO Part # 2133844 {#12589380}
SENSOR,HTD OXY(POSN 1)

I figured I was just seeing [ECM] P0140 - HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Old) (Immature) because of the angled bung on my down pipe.

 

If the wideband one is bad it must just be something that happened because I haven't messed with it. Im just going to put my stock Downpipe on and take out my tune and drop it off at the dealer. Mine never backfires though. It just dies.

 

Does your tune still have the cat warm up on ?

 

Yours does sound like a vac leak, then. Maybe it is the EVAP solenoid on the manifold. Unplug it and see if it starts up correctly.

 

Any one have any pics as to where the wideband is on the manifold?
Google hasn't been any help.

 

If you open the hood and look behind the motor, underneath the brake booster, you'll see it.

 

The code its throwing is no activity bank one. I've sprayed either everywhere to find a vacuum leak and no luck. I've got an appointment tuesday to have it checked, they'll figure it out and I'll let you guys know.

 

Correct, #1 is wideband, #2 only tells you if the Catalyst is working correctly

 

And if you're looking to replace either of them sensor 1(upstream/wideband) is $68 and sensor 2(downstream) is $44 on rockauto so its not much worse than buying a map sensor for the car.

 

They found a vac leak on mine. Brake booster to manifold on the manifold side.
Not sure if that's will solve my problem, but will see I guess. Can't see why it's only
happen on cold start if that was the only issue.