Didn't mean towards you. And yes the dejon spring can and will cause surging. Because it is a stiffer spring.

IMO it's not worth it and the stock bypass can hold 22-23psi no problem.

Blow off valves are cool and all but the stock blow
Off is perfectly fine for the stock turbo. An after
Market blow off valve will not net any power increase or throttle response. And venting to atmosphere is even worse.

There is a reason it gets recirculated. The reason is that your engine/turbo must perform work in order to draw air into the intake( it is a small amount btw). When you VTA you loose that air your engine worked so "hard" to get. By recirculating the air and imtroducing it into the intake before the compressor it actually aids in keeping the turbo spooled during shifting. If you have a larg turbo and a race type set up you may need to VTA because of the huge amount of air those engines / turbos produce.

Short version
Vent to atmosphere blow off valve = noise mod
Stock bypass valve = full of win

 

i have the hks lol, and im just waiting on the maf relocate to run that set up so it will be dialed in then....

 

Put the -9psi spring in there and then run a vacuum line DIRECTLY from the manifold to the BOV. No T's or anything like that. That'll end your problem. I guarantee it.

 

ill take a pic of the block off later 2m, its not plastic id say aluminum maybe, im holding 24psi to redline like i said i just dynoed 375 tq and 330hp i dont see how i can have a leak and or lose boost, im going to cap off the bpv solenoid completly 2m and see what happensand connect the bov directly to the manifold, hopefully were good ill let you all know how that works out, what about the other vac lines going to the solenoid, do they go anywhere where ill get a vac leak? vince also tuned me with the bov and maf relocate so

 

Ok I forgot you had the mad relocate!

It is in your lower pipe and the blow off is in the upper correct?
Also like I said I'm very certain unless you have a late model 2010 that you need to leave te diaphragm inside the turbo housing. By blocking it off your not creating a vacuum leak per se. I would be intereted if you could remove it carefully and take a picture of the block off plate and the inside of the turbo housing. Or can you give us a link to the block off product page?

 

yea maf is not right beforethe TB on the lower, and the bov is on the upper kind of in the space right by the PCM, keep in mind i alos have a 2008 lol, and il look for the link now

 

block off plate

 

I am pretty sure you are supposed to leave the diaphragm and spring in unless you are using one thats not just a plate but also has a rod on the inside with an o-ring to seal the hole in the compressor outlet.

 

im pretty sure he has the diaphram in because my buddy left his out sounded unreal. you can eliminate. even if it was not in it would not take effect on this bov issue because the vacuum will still act the same, just will not boost

 

so should i cap off the bpv solenoid all together and run the bov vac line to the manifold? what about the other vac lines commin off the solenoid ?

 

Undo the Vacuum tank entirely and then put a cap on it. That should be all you need to do
You shouldn't need to mess with the hose on top (nearest fire wall)

then just run the bov to the manifold using some fuel line to keep it from getting sucked closed and test it.

 

blk o6, ok take the bov and run a 1ply fuel line as your vac hose, so u no it wont collapse under heat. then run the bov straight to the intake mani, no t's or anything. then with the other lines they are only there for your stock recerc so you can block them off or do w.e you want with those hoses. they dont do anything and they wont hurt anything no matter what you do. ive done it so i no whats goin on.. and if u still surge and have a lighter spring, then id try to get a hks ssq, that way u can tweak it as you plz and not have to wait for springs and all that happy horseshit like we do with the tial. i love the tial q it sounds great and looks good (IMO) and its made in the USA but these cars are just frkn picky.. but good luck and keep me posted man.

 

i take that back im doing it now, i switched the hose to bov to manifold the bov is open at idle about 5/15 maybe a 1/4 inch, should i put the 9lb spring back in thanks

 

i diconected all the hoses from bpv soleniod and now it seems as if the bov isnt makin the same noise as before and theres minimal surge ? idk lol

 

keep trying the springs till you get one that seems to work the best.

Pro Tip..... Washer behind the spring mod.... O yeah its awesome....

If you find that one almost works but wont close it. (Which it might not because our turbos are a positive pressure turbo and create a little bit of pressure at idle.) Use some washers behind the spring inside the BOV this will add a small amount of pressure

 

You have a uber long vacume line going from your manifold to your BOV for one. it shouldnt matter that much but like stated earlier our cars may have a vacume problem so extra line could cause something and its also alot of extra room for a vacume leak to occur. Try pulling a short new 2 ft piece straight from the manifold to the BOV.

Edit: I thought about doing this same set up. But after thinking about it i decided not to. the factory one works fine and the set up you have causes the air your turbo compressed to be recirculated into the intake then compressed again right after a shift creating a lot of heat. It does go through the intercooler which should take care of this but just a extra step for extra heating of the air it seems that is not needed. after a long drive i could see your intake getting hotter and possibly turbo getting hotter. Im not sure about how much of a temp increase you would see may not even be enough to affect it but just a thought.

 

the hose running from the intake mani to the bov is 1/4 fuel line its not even 15 inches long so

 

The springs are different for the Q. White will be 8PSI etc

Black 6 psi (.41 bar) -8 to -11 in/Hg
White 8 psi (.55 bar) -12 to -15 in/Hg
Un-painted 10 psi (.69 bar) -16 to -19 in/Hg
Pink 11 psi (.76 bar) -20 to -21 in/Hg

you need the 8PSI spring. I have that and no surging/flutter.

Also is it BOV flutter or surge. There is a difference, most people get it confused with the tial BOV.

 

the bov is working but theres still noise coming from near the turbo, it seems tho not ever time i hear it form the turbo i dont get it ha

 

bump

 

Take off the intake and check for shaft play. (side to side movement) Also check for oil.

Since you have a maf relocate you can always just put the filter directly to the turbo and see if the noise is still there.

 

ok disconnect the bypass valve tank thing. then take the vac line from the bov off the solenoid and connect it to the manifold. then just go from one connector on the solenoid to the other one with a 5 in piece of vac line. fluttering will go away then with the unpainted 10 psi spring. no need for a different spring i can try and post a pic if needed or pm me and ill email a pic

 

I'm having a similar problem. I'm running a treadstone tr12 with a turbo smart 52mm raceport bov and not sure what vacuum line to use or delete. Can you send me a pic.

 

I left the solenoid alone, and just ran a line from the bov to the intake manifold, no issues