2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

how tight should the bolts that hold the cames in be

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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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how tight should the bolts that hold the cames in be

whats the torque specs for the cam bolts??

Last edited by tomj77; Apr 28, 2012 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 03:22 PM
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fricken checked the torque and snapped one of the end cap bolts, thank god for the mech down the road got it out, now i need a new bolt
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 03:39 PM
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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No biggy just need to find new bolt
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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There's different specs for it. A couple have a higher spec than the others. Good thing it didn't strip the threads.

That was for lsj not sure about lnf.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 04:05 PM
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Wondering if I can use a normal galvanized bolt till I can get a proper one from gm
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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I need the specs for the ones right by the cam gear. Seems 10 ft pounds but not sure
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 04:19 PM
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lnf is 22 ft lbs first pass and second pass is 100 degrees for the vvt motors.... the cam cap bolts are 89 inch lbs, tensioners 55 ft lbs, cam position sensors are 89 in lbs

note: the camshaft sprocket bolts should not be re used.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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89 inch pounds??? wow i over did it lol

Originally Posted by Omiotek
lnf is 22 ft lbs first pass and second pass is 100 degrees for the vvt motors.... the cam cap bolts are 89 inch lbs, tensioners 55 ft lbs, cam position sensors are 89 in lbs

note: the camshaft sprocket bolts should not be re used.
ur talking the end caps right before the sproket right? those are 89 inch pounds?

Last edited by tomj77; Apr 28, 2012 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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talking about journal cover bolt specs here. and do i just blue lock tight so they dont work loose? like my valve cover bolts did
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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ive never had any of that stuff back off with torque specs. the cam journals are crucial to be even... i really think you need to get a tech to help you out man.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 06:28 PM
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well i checked one and it was about 130 inch pounds, so i put a little blue lock tight on it and set it there, we shall see i guess, ill take it apart when i get stock bolts and see how it is.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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yeah they are always over torqued. most people wrench them down
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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well she runs. lol tick is still there seeing as i chickened out of changing tentioner, but at home it was gone, it comes and goes, maybe someone is living in there. lol ill just get a stock bolt and replace the hardware store temp one im using and ill leave it alone. the tick ill take into another dealer to look at and screw it
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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You really need to reset the timing chain tensioner whenever removing the timing chain for any reason.

If you don't it could cause premature timing chain wear.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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no one removed the chain
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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ordered my new bolt from create engine, learned 89 inch pounds, well i learned by screwing up, yay. lol
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 02:35 AM
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Yeah and there is a torque procedure aswell
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 05:05 AM
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Yeah, and if you don't have an in-lb torque wrench you can convert it to ft-lbs by dividing by 12. I ended up having to do that cause the in-lb torque wrench I ordered from summit doesn't read out in in-lbs but rather ft-lbs....89 in-lbs would be approx. 7.4 ft-lbs
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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i got one of those ones with a screen that attach to a normal socket. but i misunderstood how much to torque em and went made one way to tight, thats why it broke

Originally Posted by Omiotek
Yeah and there is a torque procedure aswell
not on those, they are just 89 inch pounds. thats all the repair manual says

there are the 10mm bolts that hold on the cam caps, they are all 89 inch pounds from what i read on the manual

Last edited by tomj77; Apr 29, 2012 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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its one of those things you just gotta know... its always good to go from the center and work your way out. its it a 100% neccisity? no but its good to do it. just like its also good to get them started and after then tighten up give them like a half turn so theres tension and after you have done that to them all you go back a torque them all to spec. thats just what i do
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
its one of those things you just gotta know... its always good to go from the center and work your way out. its it a 100% neccisity? no but its good to do it. just like its also good to get them started and after then tighten up give them like a half turn so theres tension and after you have done that to them all you go back a torque them all to spec. thats just what i do
i know but its only one bolt on the end lol no need for all that. just replace the bolt. but still good to know for someone who changing them i guess
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 01:49 PM
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yeah i figured u had them all undone. no big deal
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