I don't mean to flame you or be a jerk but you need to learn some things about cars.

First of all, G-Tech is not 100% accurate.
Second of all, You can't compare what your SS/SC ran compared to your SS/TC. Did you run it in the same weather, temp, pressure, and same road?
Third, your using way to much paper/guessing and assuming way to many things.
Fourth, just because other SS/TC have ran mid 13s does not mean your SS/TC will. For the most part SS/TC will be close to the same, but track location, driver, and other things go into play.

I just want you to understand those things. There is much more that goes into cars then that SS/TC is the same as that SS/TC and if bleh bleh. Besides, I ran a 14.2 @ 100mph in my stock SS/SC. That does not mean everyone else will run a 14.2 @ 100mph. Matter of fact, some SS/SCs have ran 14 flat at 99mph...imagine that!

 

unless u hardwired the g-tech to the alt you get a false reading because GM has a alt filter that scrambles the info

 

yeah bro..not telling me anything i dont know..i'm just going by why i have came up with when i ran my cars..ss/sc was on the track..my ss/tc was on the street with a cold ass road..weather conditions are way different..i know believe me..i know..and my car is 100 times more nasty then it was before i added this downpipe..you cant tell me that the computer keeps it at 260(crank)..its nasty from 1000rpm all the way to redline..no drain in power what so ever..

 

 

I don't know what synapse did to get that HP. I do believe I read somewhere that it takes a full day or so for the computer to limit the computer back down the stock HP level when you add a mod. How true is this? I don't know. I do know that cars, dynos, track, weather etc etc, are different no matter what. What makes power on one car can loose power on another car depending circumstances. I wasn't there when synapse did there modding and dyno so who knows only them. just because they didn't do a full out tune doesn't mean that they didn't adjust anything. I am not say they did, I just don't know. If you are in fact a "car guy" or a knower of all as your last post quoting R&C_rallyss suggests than you should know that company will do all kinds of **** to get the best HP they can get.

 

all i know is what they told me and how my car feels..after i added the downpipe and catback its just been insane..its been on for about 4 days now sense i added the downpipe and still runs like the day i put it on..its nasty as hell now compared to when it was just stock..thats why i'm having the hardest time believing that the computer holds you at 260..i mean i can feel the differance evertime i hit the gas..my buddy has a wrx cobb stage 2,header,upipe,downpipe,catback,bov,and springs..ever sense i got my downpipe on he makes excusses up why he cant race me when before he thought my car was slow..i mean i dont kno 100 percent either, the 15whp without a tune coudl be a lie..but i feel a crazy amount of power that i didnt feel before..

 

eek im w.you on that 145+ ftl..my whole body was shaking i was so scared.

 

u maybe got to 260 hp faster in the power band, but not over 260 in total hp, you just got to 260 faster.

 

bingo

 

lol i wasn't shaking, i've gone that fast b4 a few times but damn the ss/tc is pretty smooth at that speed, it's hard to find a place to maintain that speed for more than a second or 2.

 

if u have a tune will that reset your tune back to stock

 

....................very much possible

 

no filter? you're a bright one.

 

its not that big of a deal you've never ran your car with out a filter before everyones say its bad i think he gets the point u know

 

lol filterless.

honda mod

 

NO FILTERR?!?! really bad idea. your MAF sensor is gonna **** ur **** up. Run the car too lean too long say goodbye to ur brand new ss/tc.

 

First off.... the ECM on an untuned Cobalt SS/TC will limit boost and timing to make sure the car does not go over the predetermined 260 ft/lbs.

Synapse is a tune cobalt allowing for the higher HP and Torque readings...

Do your research kiddo.... because you obviously know very little about cars let alone the SS/TC

 

lmao

 

you obviously dont know me so how bout you keep your comments to yourself..there's no need to do research when you talk to the people that work there..they told me it added 15whp bolt on..they said with a tune it got about 20 more..so how bout you do your research before you come at me..

running without a filter aint even that serious..you guys go by the books to much just repeating what other people before you say..if the intake side of the turbo had nothing on there yeah..its bad, but when you got a serious ass intake like the cobalts the chances of getting something up in your **** is minimal..maybe you's need to stop reading the manuals and listening to everything everyone says..my cousin ran his mustange filter-less for 3 years and never had a problem..it didnt **** my MAF because i havent a CED Light for it..i'm getting them for a cat less down pipe thats it..instead of giving answers to my questions you's just say "filter less..OMG your stupid your going to blow your car up blah blah blah"..

 

ok bro

 

It is not a big deal on a car that is SD tuned or tuned to run without the filter, but on a TC with the stock MAF and tune you will throw it out of wack. Why do you think everone with intakes has had to take them off? It is because the MAF is so sensitive that changing any aspect, especially sensor or filter placement, will make the ECM go haywire. That is why you car was braking up. It was leaning out due to a false MAF reading. You need you air flilter on there for you r sensor to function properly. Did you think it was going to add power? The stock turbo flows only around 350 CFM and that is with a tune running 22psi you stock filter flows at least that.

Give it 2 weeks or so you will have a CEL. Many of the others on here have tried modifing their intakes with crappy results. Your cousin is an idiot why do you think they put the filter on ther in the first place. It was not to slow the car down, it is there to prevent damage to the engine. Have you ever seen how dirty an airfilter gets after 3 years.

 

Running without a filter is a ******* brilliant manuever, really will help your engine with long term durability. Turbos and cylinder bores really love hard silicate material being ground into them.

 

makes perfect sense and makes me wonder if you every truely ran the 1/4 on a real track the timer doesnt actaully start for your lane untill you cross the line i shouldnt have to tell people this but....


if you start close to the line depending on your reaction time you can maybe run 13.9 @ 98
very possible just an example

or you can start with a little distance between your front tires and the line with slower raction time and run 13.9 @ 108
just because you had a little more time to build up speed before you crossed the line




but to bad in reality a 1/4 track is a race if the other guy gets down the track before you, you lose no matter the times and truthfully i dont think many people noticed the timer for your lane doesnt start until you cross the start line

 

They more than likely used a tuner to take off the 260 crank hp limit to get the baseline gains then did a full tune from there to see what total gain they could get...

 

Some of you are making this no filter thing into a huge deal. Obviously a lot of you never had large Turbo motor's before.

Ever seen a turbo too big to have a filter even on it? Plenty of people do it without any problems.