Idle/Drive Rough and Bogging
You have a lot of trust in the dealer mechanics... I hope it's under warranty. If not, you could get a lot better quality work done for a lot cheaper.
No, All I did was ask them what's wrong with my car. They will let me know then I will take it back and fix it from there. They did worked on my old Cruze before and they did their job right. I can't pointed out which 1 is the issues, I research all the info on this forums and go from there. Couldn't figured it out and I can't hear which 1 is the issues.
Where'd you get that? I need one. dde04
I was kind of taken back by what I read. I'm gonna need a name and number of a reputable dealer. Sounds like I missed out and have not too informed!
I should had look underneath my car. Cause I have a feeling it could be downpipe busted open. When I started my car before it was alittle quiet then after that it was alittle louder with no check engine light on.
^^ That could have possibly just been the cat warmup cycle beginning. There's a 10-15 second delay before it kicks in, and with it being cold recently it's much more prominent this time of the year.
That long? I know mine used to kick in in just a couple seconds even on 25* mornings.
Either way, I'm just making sure that the sudden "louder" tone of the exhaust he was hearing wasn't the cat warmup kicking in, even if it's only 5 seconds.... ya literal bastard! lol
Jesus man. It's been so long since I've actually heard a LNF cold start with the cat warmup enabled that you're making me second guess myself.. lol
Either way, I'm just making sure that the sudden "louder" tone of the exhaust he was hearing wasn't the cat warmup kicking in, even if it's only 5 seconds.... ya literal bastard! lol
Either way, I'm just making sure that the sudden "louder" tone of the exhaust he was hearing wasn't the cat warmup kicking in, even if it's only 5 seconds.... ya literal bastard! lol
I know always at least 8 sec but it last more than 8 sec then it'll idle down. It'll start bogging and fighting to get it idle but at louder tone. At least I'll find out tomorrow and keep you guys updated.
Update! I got called from Progressive Chevrolet and they said they can't find anything wrong with the car. They said that I have to pay $440 dollars for them to take my engine apart and find what's the problem. What should I do ?
See if you can find a local member to help.
I'm assuming you don't have a warranty.
Did it start running rough when it got cold? Like misfires while warming up?
You could always have dirty valves if they have never been clean.
What's your mileage?
I wouldn't pay anything till you diagnose more.
I'd do the following:
1. Build a boost leak tester and check for leaks.
2. Buy a USB camera and scope the valves
3. Clean the MAF
4. Pull valve cover check for broken lash adjusters
All of this will cost you a small amount ($100 or less) compared to the dealer tearing down a motor they can't diagnose.
I'm assuming you don't have a warranty.
Did it start running rough when it got cold? Like misfires while warming up?
You could always have dirty valves if they have never been clean.
What's your mileage?
I wouldn't pay anything till you diagnose more.
I'd do the following:
1. Build a boost leak tester and check for leaks.
2. Buy a USB camera and scope the valves
3. Clean the MAF
4. Pull valve cover check for broken lash adjusters
All of this will cost you a small amount ($100 or less) compared to the dealer tearing down a motor they can't diagnose.
Last edited by umrdyldo; Nov 17, 2014 at 03:44 PM.
See if you can find a local member to help.
I'm assuming you don't have a warranty.
Did it start running rough when it got cold? Like misfires while warming up?
You could always have dirty valves if they have never been clean.
What's your mileage?
I wouldn't pay anything till you diagnose more.
I'd do the following:
1. Build a boost leak tester and check for leaks.
2. Buy a USB camera and scope the valves
3. Clean the MAF
4. Pull valve cover check for broken lash adjusters
All of this will cost you a small chunk compared to the dealer tearing down a motor they can't diagnose.
I'm assuming you don't have a warranty.
Did it start running rough when it got cold? Like misfires while warming up?
You could always have dirty valves if they have never been clean.
What's your mileage?
I wouldn't pay anything till you diagnose more.
I'd do the following:
1. Build a boost leak tester and check for leaks.
2. Buy a USB camera and scope the valves
3. Clean the MAF
4. Pull valve cover check for broken lash adjusters
All of this will cost you a small chunk compared to the dealer tearing down a motor they can't diagnose.
I have a feeling it is gunked valves, probably have a valve sticking. If you can spare $440 for the convenience of having someone figure it out for you, nothing wrong with that. I hate figuring this stuff out myself but I'm literally broke! Of course, If they come back with nothing it would be very frustrating. Up to you though, do what you think is right.
I am at 71,000 miles on it with stock engine/stock PCM. But my power train is expired last year Nov. 17, 2013 that's what the service guy said. I only have this car for 1 year and didn't know about power train warranty expired but at 71,000 miles.


