OK so I know I'm going to hear some **** about this one, but need to figure this out... I can't for the life of me get this god damn no lift shift business down. I don't see what I could be doing wrong; I floor it, I NLS at almost redline, and the damn things ALWAYS bounces the rev limiter then makes a weird ass sound out of the exhaust.. What the hell gives? I though the RPMs were supposed to hold at like 5grand or something like that when you depress the clutch. Can you only NLS from a complete stop or something gay like that? I actually seem to make faster runs when I shift without NLS..Is my NLS just not working properly? Has anyone else run into this problem? HELP!!! lol

 

Try shifting at 5900-6100 RPM and report back. Make sure to make it a very quick shift, but don't be ripping on the shifter either. The tach has a bit of a lag to it (as does the spedometer for that matter), so when you think you're at redline, you actually got there just a split-second before you thought you did.

It'll become almost one motion: clutch in-shift-done. If you're bouncing the limiter hard, either it doesn't know you're NLS'ing (like if the gas pedal really isn't all the way down), getting to redline before you shift, or you're taking just long enough for it to exit NLS mode and then bounce the limiter.

 

5 grand....umm no. Try it at 6100rpm, remember your tach lags a bit. If you NLS BEFORE that (or go to slow) it will bang off the limiter. *EDIT: Stamina snuck it in there before me but ya what he said *

 

I wasn't saying that I SHIFTED at 5 grand, I thought that NLS was supposed to hold the rpm there.. I'm shifting as close to redline as I can and after I depress the clutch I am bouncing the limiter every time. It hits the limiter only for a split second, but it is still hitting the limiter non the less.. Where is the NLS supposed to hold the rpms?

 

Try shifting around 5800 to 6100rpm. It should still hold and not be right at the rev limiter.

NLS doesn't hold the RPM at a high level, it holds boost around 15psi between shifts. You have to be quick with it, also.

 

no its supposed to go past 5k. 5k is when your at a stop ready to launch

i just learned how to do it. pm with questions you need

 

Launch Control - Holds RPM at 4500 or so when in Competition Mode, from a start, with accelerator and clutch to the floor.

No-lift Shift - Feature that holds boost around 15psi between shifts if Accelerator is held at WOT.

09CobaltSS1, which are you talking about so we can clear this up?

 

Try shifting earlier. I shift out of first at 5800 and 6000 for 2nd and 3rd.

 

does it have a set rpm it holds at? and thanks man

The no lift shift... I get that it holds the boost, but is it supposed to hit the limiter like I keep doing? From what I understand, that doesn't seem right..

That's exactly right around where my shift points are as well... so when you NLS are you hitting the limiter, and do you get a funky sound from the exhaust?

 

I've had the same problem as you the handful of times ive tried NLS'ing into 2nd....it just bounces off the rev limiter and pops 3 or 4 times bogs and even caused a misfire CEL....so im pretty much done trying it haha. I can easily do it into 3rd and 4th though at the race track i dont know what it is about second, sometimes it doesnt even go in.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-10-ss-turbocharged-general-discussion-152/cobalt-ss-tc-technical-presentation-%5Bpdf%5D-can-stickied-139348/

For the OP...read that PDF.

From the NLS page:
–Redline engine speed is maintained using spark retard and fuel cutoff during the de-clutch period

So yes, the tach will hold at redline during a NLS. You should hear a pop from the exhaust. Boost will stay solid at whatever you're boosting too...if you don't lose boost, you're doing it right.

 

When it doesn't go in, that means it's your clutchwork usually. I had that problem a lot when I first got my car. I had trouble sync'ing the whole motion. The clutch wasn't all the way in during the part when I was shifting.

For me, I've given up on 1st-2nd. My favorite is 2nd-3rd... and sometimes I do a 3rd-4th when in Mexico.

The launch control should hold it between 4500-5000. It seems to be slightly different for different people for some reason.

The sound you're hearing may be the "pop" or two that people have when they do a NLS.

 

I know nobody wants to be the one to ask the stupid question, but to the OP: Are you in "Competitive Mode" when you attempt the NLS?

 

it doesn't matter what mode you are in to NLS.

 

I learn something new every day. This car is confusing with the ESC, ETS, TCS, NLS, yada yada yada.

 

just turn it all off.

hold the traction control button for 10 seconds.

esc will be off. meaning the whole cars traction is in ur hands.

as far as NLS. my rev limiter is raised. so i can **** between 6100-6300. maybe (keyword) 6500. and not bounce the limiter. no boost drop either.

the sound from the exhaust is normal.

 

I guess I should do some more research before sying anything BUT. I have no trouble NLS'ing at ANY shift point. "007G5GT" is right about the spark retard and fuel cut off. If you hold the throttle to the floor HARD and complete your shift in less than .2 seconds (that's 2 TENTHS of a second) The combination of these two actions will initiate the NLS. It sounds like you are shifting TOO HIGH from 1 to 2 and hitting the limiter before the NLS has a chance to work. I don't think anybody is quick enough to get within a 100 or even 200 of the limiter and initiate a shift without the engine, through inertia, spinning into the limiter. The fact you are having the most problem during the 1-2 shift should bear this out a little. I, personally, like a shift light. It will definitely increase your shift point accuracy. Get one that has separate shift points for each gear and set it to come on 3 or 4 hundred RPM below red line for the 1-2 shift then you can adjust from there for your 3, 4 and 5 shift. Remember, the RPM's are rising MUCH faster in the lower gears meaning you have to shift faster to stay away from the limiter. In the higher gears the RPM isn't rising as fast which means you have more time to shift before hitting the limiter. In fact, I have found that even shifting normally if I just SLIP the gearshift into neutral and THEN immediately put it in the next gear (all this in the time it would take you to make a NORMAL shift) you can get the smoothest shift possible. You know the "clunk" you normally get between gears? Well that goes away completely.

Just MY observations.

 

shift at 6000 rpm, when u no lift shift ur rpm jumps up a bit, and if u try to high u will hit rev limiter and loose boost.

 

Thanks for the feed back guys. It's all been really helpfull actually. I haven't had a chance to drive the car in a couple of days so tomorrow I'll try out a few techniques some of you guys had brought up. From what I've been reading it seems I haven't been doing EVERYTHING completely wrong... just some.. I think I just expected something a little different, and need to get used to it a little more. I'm still not completely sold on the NLS personally, but maybe I'll grow to love it... hopefully

 

go on the highway and nls from 3-4 gear youll understand the concept easier when you do it that way

 

Great idea. Wish I had thought to tell him that.

 

1st time I have ever gotten the TC icon ! on the street.

In the Camaro, on the other hand, TC lights are a every time driven occurence.

I don't do that ( 1 - 2 NLS ) often - I was coming off a stop sign where there are 2 lanes that can either turn towards you , or go straight .

Northbound on West TC Jester before Pinemont , if anyone in Houston knows the intersection.

It's bad - lots of wrecks , so I don't waste my time getting thru it normally.


At any rate, the noise I hear is more like a loud PFFT ! sound - like a gas blow off.


I don't wnat to burn those pricey Contis any more than I have too ...


Britt

 

Actually the manual for the car states 1 second (look it up if you don't believe me). The .2 second number was thrown around quite a bit and became "truth". Although if you are taking 1 second to shift...

Don't worry, they will wear out fast enough on their own - mine only lasted 12k miles, I replaced them at 15k. I was not impressed with them. I don't have a problem with tires only lasting that long, if they grip. My current tires grip better than they did, and have a 45k warranty.

 

[QUOTE=IsItFast?;4162635]Actually the manual for the car states 1 second (look it up if you don't believe me). The .2 second number was thrown around quite a bit and became "truth". Although if you are taking 1 second to shift...


Actually, my owners manual says on page 2-30 "If the engine is operated at the maximum engine speed for greater than one second, the engine exits the No-Lift Upshift mode and resumes NORMAL engine overspeed protection". I would rather have an engineer decipher that statement. NLS is not necessarily OVERSPEED protection. It controls the IGNITION TIMING and FUEL DELIVERY momentarily while the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor and the throttle is also to the floor (it will also work at part throttle), allowing the turbo to maintain boost by not closing the throttle. The NLS function is enabled by the ESC which is turned on automatically when is turned on and the car starts moving. If the engine is floored for more than one second the automatic overspeed protection, which I believe closes the throttle kicks in but ESC remains enabled. It DOESN'T say anything about one second being the maximum time in which to complete the shift. I believe the .2 second reference is aimed at the TIMING and FUEL DELIVERY adjustments which is what makes NLS work. If you were to leave the pedal to the metal for anything near one minute without Launch Control turned on the exhaust would sound like a machine gun which doesn't do the engine any good. The NLS adjusts the timing and fuel MOMENTARILY which allows the turbo to manitain boost till the clutch is released in the next gear. I HAVE read all this in a GM article but of course I can remember where. I would say if you really think you're right try it but I'm afraid you'll destroy SOMETHING and I don't want to be the one that told you to do it. I'm damn sure not.

This is an exerpt from an article in Car & Driver. It's semi relevent. The'yre saying the engine has time enough for one pop before you hit the limiter.

"A tip from the engineers: One pop from the tailpipe is good. More pops are bad, since that means you’ve bounced it off the rev limiter and aren’t accelerating as quickly as you could. Using launch control or no-lift---------------"


This is another article talking about NLS. I found it after I submitted this post. This is the link. Check it out.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article....rticle_id=6702


Now I COULD be 100% wrong on all this but untill someone proves me wrong this is what I'm gouing to go by.

 

Boom