Issues with NLS!!
(It's no longer there)
Try this one. Had to go into the archives.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/article....rticle_id=6702
Yea. This one works. It's a great write up.
The full second thing is kind of deceiving. Once NLS mode is ACTIVATED in the PCM it stays activated until you complete the shift or until that 1 second window expires and you still aren't in gear.
Technically that means you could take a whole second to shift and the feature would still work. That doesn't mean you should and that's not what the 1 second window was made for...it was made to protect the engine, if the timer expires and you're still not in gear (a missed shift) and the engine is still wailing at 6300RPM then the PCM says "alright, enough" and goes back into normal mode so the engine can hit the limiter and stop screaming.
A good shifter can shift in less than half a second during a NORMAL shift...I know I can. If you're taking a FULL SECOND to shift thru a NLS...you've just defeated the purpose of the feature, which is to improve shift time, and you should not be driving a vehicle.
Notice how it says after 1 second it EXITS NLS mode and resumes normal engine overspeed protection mode...engine overspeed protection mode is a fancy way of saying the rev-limiter will now do its thing if the engine RPM hit that number.
When NLS mode is engaged it HOLDS the RPM's at REDLINE even though you've still got your foot planted on the gas, you essentially CANNOT hit the rev limiter during that 1 second window that NLS mode is activated (due to several reasons we already know). In "normal engine overspeed protection mode" the engine would keep on reving...right into the rev-limiter.
That's an engineer deciphering the manual for you...lol.
Technically that means you could take a whole second to shift and the feature would still work. That doesn't mean you should and that's not what the 1 second window was made for...it was made to protect the engine, if the timer expires and you're still not in gear (a missed shift) and the engine is still wailing at 6300RPM then the PCM says "alright, enough" and goes back into normal mode so the engine can hit the limiter and stop screaming.
A good shifter can shift in less than half a second during a NORMAL shift...I know I can. If you're taking a FULL SECOND to shift thru a NLS...you've just defeated the purpose of the feature, which is to improve shift time, and you should not be driving a vehicle.
Notice how it says after 1 second it EXITS NLS mode and resumes normal engine overspeed protection mode...engine overspeed protection mode is a fancy way of saying the rev-limiter will now do its thing if the engine RPM hit that number.
When NLS mode is engaged it HOLDS the RPM's at REDLINE even though you've still got your foot planted on the gas, you essentially CANNOT hit the rev limiter during that 1 second window that NLS mode is activated (due to several reasons we already know). In "normal engine overspeed protection mode" the engine would keep on reving...right into the rev-limiter.
That's an engineer deciphering the manual for you...lol.
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From: Connecticut
The full second thing is kind of deceiving. Once NLS mode is ACTIVATED in the PCM it stays activated until you complete the shift or until that 1 second window expires and you still aren't in gear.
Technically that means you could take a whole second to shift and the feature would still work. That doesn't mean you should and that's not what the 1 second window was made for...it was made to protect the engine, if the timer expires and you're still not in gear (a missed shift) and the engine is still wailing at 6300RPM then the PCM says "alright, enough" and goes back into normal mode so the engine can hit the limiter and stop screaming.
A good shifter can shift in less than half a second during a NORMAL shift...I know I can. If you're taking a FULL SECOND to shift thru a NLS...you've just defeated the purpose of the feature, which is to improve shift time, and you should not be driving a vehicle.
Notice how it says after 1 second it EXITS NLS mode and resumes normal engine overspeed protection mode...engine overspeed protection mode is a fancy way of saying the rev-limiter will now do its thing if the engine RPM hit that number.
When NLS mode is engaged it HOLDS the RPM's at REDLINE even though you've still got your foot planted on the gas, you essentially CANNOT hit the rev limiter during that 1 second window that NLS mode is activated (due to several reasons we already know). In "normal engine overspeed protection mode" the engine would keep on reving...right into the rev-limiter.
That's an engineer deciphering the manual for you...lol.
Technically that means you could take a whole second to shift and the feature would still work. That doesn't mean you should and that's not what the 1 second window was made for...it was made to protect the engine, if the timer expires and you're still not in gear (a missed shift) and the engine is still wailing at 6300RPM then the PCM says "alright, enough" and goes back into normal mode so the engine can hit the limiter and stop screaming.
A good shifter can shift in less than half a second during a NORMAL shift...I know I can. If you're taking a FULL SECOND to shift thru a NLS...you've just defeated the purpose of the feature, which is to improve shift time, and you should not be driving a vehicle.
Notice how it says after 1 second it EXITS NLS mode and resumes normal engine overspeed protection mode...engine overspeed protection mode is a fancy way of saying the rev-limiter will now do its thing if the engine RPM hit that number.
When NLS mode is engaged it HOLDS the RPM's at REDLINE even though you've still got your foot planted on the gas, you essentially CANNOT hit the rev limiter during that 1 second window that NLS mode is activated (due to several reasons we already know). In "normal engine overspeed protection mode" the engine would keep on reving...right into the rev-limiter.
That's an engineer deciphering the manual for you...lol.
Seriously? People still have a problem with this? Shift quickly and smoothly without lifting off the gas, the car holds boost for you. What is the confusion here? I test drove an LNF Cobalt and it worked just fine for me, maybe you just have to know what you are doing...
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Joined: 04-12-09
Posts: 4,869
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From: Connecticut
Seriously? People still have a problem with this? Shift quickly and smoothly without lifting off the gas, the car holds boost for you. What is the confusion here? I test drove an LNF Cobalt and it worked just fine for me, maybe you just have to know what you are doing...
Then I bow to you sir and your wise ass talents and snicker at myself for my lack of NLS ability. However I was mainly posting to make sure what I was running into while doing an NLS was actually what SHOULD be happening on MY own car unlike you who was beating on a test drive car and could care less what was going on.... fool 
What don't you understand, you drive the car, shift quickly without letting off the gas, and the car holds boost for you while doing so as opposed to closing the throttle body...
This isn't rocket science here.
I've had a quick Cobalt for way longer than you, and my car was quicker than yours will ever be, especially if you can't even figure out how to shift well enough to use the NLS function. I could put 350whp through a stock clutch, all it takes is some practical knowledge.
Shut the **** up noob, learn how to drive.
What don't you understand, you drive the car, shift quickly without letting off the gas, and the car holds boost for you while doing so as opposed to closing the throttle body...
This isn't rocket science here.
I've had a quick Cobalt for way longer than you, and my car was quicker than yours will ever be, especially if you can't even figure out how to shift well enough to use the NLS function. I could put 350whp through a stock clutch, all it takes is some practical knowledge.
What don't you understand, you drive the car, shift quickly without letting off the gas, and the car holds boost for you while doing so as opposed to closing the throttle body...
This isn't rocket science here.
I've had a quick Cobalt for way longer than you, and my car was quicker than yours will ever be, especially if you can't even figure out how to shift well enough to use the NLS function. I could put 350whp through a stock clutch, all it takes is some practical knowledge.
one of two things happen
When I nls one of two things happen;
1) The car's tires spin and then they hook with a nice "chirp".
2) The car sputters and weezes and chokes on big black plumes of smoke. Followed by several loud pops and crackles and about 30 seconds of gurgles and fart noises until I go into neutral and coast and rev it once and its all good. Except for the misfire code and cel on. POS!
50/50 chance lol
1) The car's tires spin and then they hook with a nice "chirp".
2) The car sputters and weezes and chokes on big black plumes of smoke. Followed by several loud pops and crackles and about 30 seconds of gurgles and fart noises until I go into neutral and coast and rev it once and its all good. Except for the misfire code and cel on. POS!
50/50 chance lol
When I nls one of two things happen;
1) The car's tires spin and then they hook with a nice "chirp".
2) The car sputters and weezes and chokes on big black plumes of smoke. Followed by several loud pops and crackles and about 30 seconds of gurgles and fart noises until I go into neutral and coast and rev it once and its all good. Except for the misfire code and cel on. POS!
50/50 chance lol
1) The car's tires spin and then they hook with a nice "chirp".
2) The car sputters and weezes and chokes on big black plumes of smoke. Followed by several loud pops and crackles and about 30 seconds of gurgles and fart noises until I go into neutral and coast and rev it once and its all good. Except for the misfire code and cel on. POS!
50/50 chance lol
When I nls one of two things happen;
1) The car's tires spin and then they hook with a nice "chirp".
2) The car sputters and weezes and chokes on big black plumes of smoke. Followed by several loud pops and crackles and about 30 seconds of gurgles and fart noises until I go into neutral and coast and rev it once and its all good. Except for the misfire code and cel on. POS!
50/50 chance lol
1) The car's tires spin and then they hook with a nice "chirp".
2) The car sputters and weezes and chokes on big black plumes of smoke. Followed by several loud pops and crackles and about 30 seconds of gurgles and fart noises until I go into neutral and coast and rev it once and its all good. Except for the misfire code and cel on. POS!
50/50 chance lol
Last edited by Stamina; Aug 3, 2009 at 09:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
A youtube video would be awesome. I, too, can not pull this thing off. I'm thinking maybe I'm not pushing the clutch all the way down to the floor? well, I can only dream of pulling this off one day on my way to work.
I have yet to experience the problems so many people in our community are having. Anyone else just get in and shift it like they've driven before? Granted you have to be very quick. Its a shift. Just a shift WOT.
I did break some linkage though...
My hairy palmed right hand is strong as f*ck. What can I say...
I did break some linkage though...
My hairy palmed right hand is strong as f*ck. What can I say...
Last edited by Mr.Black; Aug 8, 2009 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I'll make one last suggestion. If it don't work take two aspirins and call the Bob Bondurant driving school.
While the car is accelerating in whichever gear, apply a FIRM pressure on the stick in the direction you want it to go for the next gear. Don't apply so much pressure you yank it out of gear before you hit the clutch but enough that the stick will begin to move as soon as the transmission loses torque, through the actuation of the clutch, and allowes it to slip out of that gear. Continue the firm pressure and if the shifter is adjusted correctly it should, almost, automatically go into the next gear. Are you SURE the shifter is adjusted correctly? That could cause problems also. Sitting still shifting NORMALLY the stick should go straight from 1 to 2 SMOOTHLY with no adjustments in the travel. 2 to 3 should also go smoothly with a small adjustment to the right and and so forth and so on. When I installed my TWM shifter it took a while to get the pattern right.
I suspect that many of the Cobalt SS owners are young guys driving a manual transmission for the first time after learning to drive on the automatic family grocery getter. Don't get me wrong here. I'm NOT slamming anybody, just trying to find some reasons for your problems.
As for the comment about Bob Bondurant. SERIOUSLY! If there is a competition driving school near you, a day of instruction would make those having problems better drivers than most on this forum. In fact I'm planning on attending a competition school as soon as I have the upgrade installed and working. I believe you're never too old or too smart to learn. Thankfully it's only a mile from my home. I'll let you know that goes.
All of the foregoing is only MY experience and opinion.
While the car is accelerating in whichever gear, apply a FIRM pressure on the stick in the direction you want it to go for the next gear. Don't apply so much pressure you yank it out of gear before you hit the clutch but enough that the stick will begin to move as soon as the transmission loses torque, through the actuation of the clutch, and allowes it to slip out of that gear. Continue the firm pressure and if the shifter is adjusted correctly it should, almost, automatically go into the next gear. Are you SURE the shifter is adjusted correctly? That could cause problems also. Sitting still shifting NORMALLY the stick should go straight from 1 to 2 SMOOTHLY with no adjustments in the travel. 2 to 3 should also go smoothly with a small adjustment to the right and and so forth and so on. When I installed my TWM shifter it took a while to get the pattern right.
I suspect that many of the Cobalt SS owners are young guys driving a manual transmission for the first time after learning to drive on the automatic family grocery getter. Don't get me wrong here. I'm NOT slamming anybody, just trying to find some reasons for your problems.
As for the comment about Bob Bondurant. SERIOUSLY! If there is a competition driving school near you, a day of instruction would make those having problems better drivers than most on this forum. In fact I'm planning on attending a competition school as soon as I have the upgrade installed and working. I believe you're never too old or too smart to learn. Thankfully it's only a mile from my home. I'll let you know that goes.
All of the foregoing is only MY experience and opinion.
Over the past month I've had a lot of trouble with the NLS. So, just the other day I told the dealership and they checked it out and had warranty work done to my car. They said there were computer updates available and told me to see if that fixes it. On my way home afterwards, I tried NLSing 2 times in a row and nailed them no problem. I have no idea how, but those updates seem to have fixed my problem.
yes as stated the sound is the pop ur geting from all the unburnt gass lurking around in the exhaust when u get back on it in gear it pops and some time is know to shoot a little fireball. Personaly it sounds like ur not doing it fast enough to me.
Over the past month I've had a lot of trouble with the NLS. So, just the other day I told the dealership and they checked it out and had warranty work done to my car. They said there were computer updates available and told me to see if that fixes it. On my way home afterwards, I tried NLSing 2 times in a row and nailed them no problem. I have no idea how, but those updates seem to have fixed my problem.
I have no problem NLS from 2nd-3rd but 1st-2nd is a royal pain in the ass. Its seems like it doesnt want to go into to 2nd and sometimes i feel like im going to destroy the linkage. Anyone else have that problem? Remember that 2nd-3rd is smooth and no problems.



