Knock with GMS1 Tune?
Knock with GMS1 Tune?
I'm almost certain that I am knocking pretty bad about 5,000 RPMS, WOT with the GMS1 Tune on. My mods are in my sig, plus a 3" Dejon Catless Downpipe, running with the cutout OPEN. Do you think this has to do with my problem?
Also, it is rather cool in Florida now... 30's - 50's.
Also, it is rather cool in Florida now... 30's - 50's.
X2. I will check it for you if you want. You should let me tune you on top of that stage tune though. IMHO the 14.0 A/F it runs until 4500 rpms at WOT is lean for that much cylinder pressure and load.
if you believe your car is knocking, is the only way to know defiantly know is to look at rpd screen? Or is there a scan tool like obd II tool or something that will show it during or after it has occurred? Thanks for info in advance
if you believe your car is knocking, is the only way to know defiantly know is to look at rpd screen? Or is there a scan tool like obd II tool or something that will show it during or after it has occurred? Thanks for info in advance
You better be quick then, Knock Retard kicks in in a second to quench it.
What does it show your LTFT's to be?
What does it show your LTFT's to be?
Last edited by Iam Broke; Jan 3, 2010 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Because the RPD knock screen is a fail, it never shows knock even if knock is logged
Just throwin this out there...Bad gas? Or maybe they put the wrong fuel in the wrong tank? (ie 87 in the 93)
Doesn't make since for reckelessnova to not be knocking but JPizzle is with the same tune in similar temps with similar mods.
Doesn't make since for reckelessnova to not be knocking but JPizzle is with the same tune in similar temps with similar mods.
I put Hess 93 in it. I always do. But I just filled up again today with like 1/4 of a tank left. So, I will report back and see it if does it again.
But I ordered the Kiwi Wifi, (it runs off the OBD-II Port), and I can data log on there, and see knock retard.
And Term, I want your tune sooo bad! But then I would probably have to buy a damn clutch & flywheel because I want lots of power, and then I would have to pay you also.
Your my number # 1 choice! And you will definately be able to tune my car. :
But I ordered the Kiwi Wifi, (it runs off the OBD-II Port), and I can data log on there, and see knock retard.
And Term, I want your tune sooo bad! But then I would probably have to buy a damn clutch & flywheel because I want lots of power, and then I would have to pay you also.
Your my number # 1 choice! And you will definately be able to tune my car. :
around 15 depends I did have a cel right after i got it for i think p103 or something it was a week or two after I put on the intake and it got really cold all the sudden at night threw the code went into limp mode reset the fuel trims and the code no problems since I keep a eye on arf ltft and stft knock retard spark and trouble codes on one screen and its set up to turn solid red if i get any codes (wont trip the check eng soon light all times) and if my ltfts get over 20. Would be happy to keep a eye on anything you all need to be sure. Only problem I have is idle surge when cold but It did the same thing with the stock intake.
Iambroke I was going to ask you about that also how can you exactly tune out the fuel trim issues for the intake Because even the stock setup was never at 0 all the time factory filter or with the k&n I never did the air box bod. just wondering if the factory dosent throw a code untill 25% why does everyone get all bent out of shape at 15%
josh
Iambroke I was going to ask you about that also how can you exactly tune out the fuel trim issues for the intake Because even the stock setup was never at 0 all the time factory filter or with the k&n I never did the air box bod. just wondering if the factory dosent throw a code untill 25% why does everyone get all bent out of shape at 15%
josh
around 15 depends I did have a cel right after i got it for i think p103 or something it was a week or two after I put on the intake and it got really cold all the sudden at night threw the code went into limp mode reset the fuel trims and the code no problems since I keep a eye on arf ltft and stft knock retard spark and trouble codes on one screen and its set up to turn solid red if i get any codes (wont trip the check eng soon light all times) and if my ltfts get over 20. Would be happy to keep a eye on anything you all need to be sure. Only problem I have is idle surge when cold but It did the same thing with the stock intake.
Iambroke I was going to ask you about that also how can you exactly tune out the fuel trim issues for the intake Because even the stock setup was never at 0 all the time factory filter or with the k&n I never did the air box bod. just wondering if the factory dosent throw a code untill 25% why does everyone get all bent out of shape at 15%
josh
Iambroke I was going to ask you about that also how can you exactly tune out the fuel trim issues for the intake Because even the stock setup was never at 0 all the time factory filter or with the k&n I never did the air box bod. just wondering if the factory dosent throw a code untill 25% why does everyone get all bent out of shape at 15%
josh
around 15 depends I did have a cel right after i got it for i think p103 or something it was a week or two after I put on the intake and it got really cold all the sudden at night threw the code went into limp mode reset the fuel trims and the code no problems since I keep a eye on arf ltft and stft knock retard spark and trouble codes on one screen and its set up to turn solid red if i get any codes (wont trip the check eng soon light all times) and if my ltfts get over 20. Would be happy to keep a eye on anything you all need to be sure. Only problem I have is idle surge when cold but It did the same thing with the stock intake.
Iambroke I was going to ask you about that also how can you exactly tune out the fuel trim issues for the intake Because even the stock setup was never at 0 all the time factory filter or with the k&n I never did the air box bod. just wondering if the factory dosent throw a code untill 25% why does everyone get all bent out of shape at 15%
josh
Iambroke I was going to ask you about that also how can you exactly tune out the fuel trim issues for the intake Because even the stock setup was never at 0 all the time factory filter or with the k&n I never did the air box bod. just wondering if the factory dosent throw a code untill 25% why does everyone get all bent out of shape at 15%
josh
It's a big drivability issue because your air fuel ratio is constantly off until the ecu corrects it. Lean spikes have to be trimmed rich every time you change the throttle & load ect. If it's dialed in, no trim is needed improving performance and drivability & economy.
Well that's great we all waited and waited for gm stage 1 tune now its here and its a lean tune prone to knocking? Are u kidding me? Could it be dealer installed error that was made? Maybe bad batch of gas? Maybe somerthing that present in engine before tune? Did anyone think of goin back to the dealer that installed it? Or maybe contacting gm directly? I mean this is not a fifty dollar part with minor consequences, were talking engine and power destroying knock here
cresintern dont think the lean issue is much to worry about because its not for sure its a problem at all yet... No reason to freak out and start calling it junk...It does run Lean From what people are used to but I get a vibe that the direct injection is a different beast and we haven't fully figured it out. Gm is basically a bunch of pussies If you ask em and I doubt that they would be running it that lean if it was not ok. (i know there were problems with the etg 3 sc tune)
I am broke thanks for the run down on how that basically works I keep a really close eye on afr always Im used to tuning my carb car with a fast dual wide-band so I know how important it is But I haven't noticed a difference in afr from stock intake to now. maybe its just on a scale that I cant notice. what I guess im confused on is how you tune for something to be perfect all the time when it usualy is at 0 - 1 or 2 either direction when i watch stft... Im used to changing jets and distributor springs and manually doing it under the hood haha not having a computer adjusting them for me
Oh just fyi I only run hess 93 up here Dont forget however winter gas sucks My mpg went down 3mpg since dec
OP after you are for sure its knock I would be happy to check what Im reading in my car so you can compare anything you need let me know.
Josh
I am broke thanks for the run down on how that basically works I keep a really close eye on afr always Im used to tuning my carb car with a fast dual wide-band so I know how important it is But I haven't noticed a difference in afr from stock intake to now. maybe its just on a scale that I cant notice. what I guess im confused on is how you tune for something to be perfect all the time when it usualy is at 0 - 1 or 2 either direction when i watch stft... Im used to changing jets and distributor springs and manually doing it under the hood haha not having a computer adjusting them for me
Oh just fyi I only run hess 93 up here Dont forget however winter gas sucks My mpg went down 3mpg since dec
OP after you are for sure its knock I would be happy to check what Im reading in my car so you can compare anything you need let me know.
Josh
reckless - Glad the intake is working out for you, I'm OCD about this stuff.

My LTFT's with the Hahn CAI drift -1.6 to +1.6 with the weather dialed in as close as I can get it.
Like you, I'm more familiar from carb jetting from when I was a kid with a '65 Malibu SS 4 spd, 327 but times change.
My LTFT's with the Hahn CAI drift -1.6 to +1.6 with the weather dialed in as close as I can get it.
Like you, I'm more familiar from carb jetting from when I was a kid with a '65 Malibu SS 4 spd, 327 but times change.
You tune the intake by calibrating the MAF output frequency for the correct flow. If LTFT's are +15, you start by multiplying the entire table by about 12% (1.12) and narrow it down from there, once that is close then you look at each frequency range with a histogram and correct the curve, then finally you look at each freq cell vs. load & rpm and use the MAF correction table. It's a long process.
It's a big drivability issue because your air fuel ratio is constantly off until the ecu corrects it. Lean spikes have to be trimmed rich every time you change the throttle & load ect. If it's dialed in, no trim is needed improving performance and drivability & economy.
It's a big drivability issue because your air fuel ratio is constantly off until the ecu corrects it. Lean spikes have to be trimmed rich every time you change the throttle & load ect. If it's dialed in, no trim is needed improving performance and drivability & economy.


