Do you guys pull the rubber strip at the wiper cowl? Let's lots of hot air out. And colodude don't make it sound like you would blame term for a hurt motor if it goes. It would be your fault

 

I don't think he was trying to say he'd blame Term, just that Term knew how he used his cobalt and didn't ask Term to hold back.

 

Do small things first then go test it. Fans on while driving makes a big difference actually.

 

The higher temps aren't being caused by running 26 psi or 300 psi. It's being generated due to the fact that you're making more power/torque and that's generated by higher cylinder pressures (remember what drives the piston down? haha) which means, keeping everything else constant, higher temperatures. So you can dial back the tune but that obviously means less cylinder pressure or your only other options are: bigger radiator, ethanol/methanol or straight water with some water wetter type stuff.

Welcome to the world of going faster haha. It's a bitch

Now I quickly wanna state that obviously running higher back pressure (what you call boost) can be a factor but that can be determined by looking at iats and can be solved by getting a sufficient size intercooler

 

Could be that too

 

This. I would never blame my tuner or my performance shop or anyone else for something that breaks because I'm pushing the limits. I'm not out to break stuff, but am willing to run a certain amount of risk inherent to modding and increasing power. I do want my car to last a long time which is why I'm trying to get intelligent answers in this thread on how to manage my risk

This is what I plan to do. Fans on, increase under hood airflow, reduce boost pressure. Then probably ZZP radiator and turbo blanket. Meth as a last resort if all that doesn't get the temps down far enough.

Thanks everyone for your input so far!

 

I'll see what I can work up for a 0-5volt ref so you can log temps in different areas of your engine bay through hptuners when your car is up and running again and try a few different things

 

Awesome Eric! I think we're going to spend some quality time next year at HPR together ;-)

 

Your under hood temps aren't the problem. It's your coolant temps that you're trying to lower. So logging the temps throughout the engine bay is a waste, although running the fans at 100% the whole time would help. Won't completely solve the problem but it would help

 

It's always unfortunate though, because the tuner always takes the blame. We can tell people over and over again never to do things and in the end it doesn't matter, the tuner is the one that sucks. I just hate to see Term2 take a bad rap, because there are tuners that are **** and fully deserve it.

 

so whats the tune like? i dont mean that in a way to bash term. im curious hoe the powerband is and where your hitting your target psi and such.

theres a lot of shity tuners on here rave and 80% of lnfs i rebuild have all had shitty tunes in them and all show signs of detonation in the cylinders. so in all honesty thats a lot of why you see people blaming the tunes. guys run too much fuel, not enough, too much timing etc etc. no ones going to blame term if this dudes car blows but theres guys that run a lot more psi then him on road coarses in different cars and seem to do it just fine. local nasa member here runs a 700hp mustang.turns the boost up at road america and on the main straight its in the ball park of 174mph

theres thing that need to be done. we spent nearly a year dialing in my old cars tune to get it where we wanted it on and off the track naking 416whp. temps would get hot but not 240 degrees hot. id maybe see 230 when its a 100 degrees out after a 30 minute session.

major things come into play..... i didnt have a bunch of cooling mods but they definately would of helped...... i have a place for this car that will keep the temps down. ive been debating build a lnf radiator as well but i dont see enough interest to do it. our kappa one does wounders.

 

It's definitely unfortunate that many people don't take personal responsibility. I mean, even if you pick a shitty tuner to tune your car, who made that decision? That's right, numero uno. And even with great tuners there's always a risk and it all depends on what you do with your car.

I compare it to taking your car to the road track. I tell people that are interested: Between the track rental, fuel, tires and brakes, expect to spend 4-500 bucks for a track day. That's if you don't break anything. Then you have to be able to live with totaling the car. Anything can happen, mechanically or accident-wise. Don't hide behind insurance or warranty. That's not gonna fly. If you can't be without a car for 6 months and/or don't have the money to buy another one to get around, don't do it. It's like not betting your food money in Vegas. Everyone yells "pay to play" but very few seem to really understand what that means...

 

I never got a chance to dyno yet and don't have any logs handy. Plus my HPT & laptop is in the car in the shop an hour from here...

 

im not too worried about hp numbers...was just curious about the powerband because if its a pretty quick spike something term can do is ramp up the boost slower in the gears so your peaking at your max output vs peaking right away. i know i had a smooth gradual powerband all the way to redline.

as far as the tunes go a lot of cars are damaged from the get go from prior poor tuning, some is done because people dont know whos a really crappy tuner so they go there because other people think that tuners great etc etc. theres only a few good lnf tuners out there imho. but your right you pay to play. i tell people for tracking if your on slicks ecpect to spend 1500 in a weekend if you need tires.

 

UPDATE! Hey Folks! I decided swap out new thermostat today. Got them at Advance Auto thermostat called Tough One part#14698. I am extremely happy right now and the way my car behave. It average sit at 189 degree at normal driving, when I hit boost it will get up at around 196 then drop back to 189 FAST! I have old 1 from Chevy average 199 then when I hit boost then get up 205-207. I didn't like it at all, With the new thermostat take about 10 degrees off. It's a MUST have for Cobalt!

 

Maybe you had a sticking one, because that's how most of them work.

 

yep they do stick especially on the kappas

 

Yep, My old 1 is sticking but I don't know if that's normal as right now I am seeing it goes down to 185. Which that makes me even more happier.

 

I do that not just removing the rubber strip but I trimmed away some of the plastic but leaving around 1/4" to catch any water/rain from dripping onto the engine. I put the strip in the trunk in case I do need it if I am caught in a thunder storm.
Other add on including mounting a 5.5" fan on the bottom of my understray blowing up ward towards the turbo/intake area via a toggle switch. How effective, don't know? It wouldn't hurt anything.

 

I think you should suck air out of the engine bay and not blow it in.

 

Hi Todd merry xmas
NOTE cmiller: removing the rear rubber strip on the hood LETS AIR IN. There is a negative pressure area at the cowl from the center of the windshield to about 18 inchs from the edge of the fender.

read up on '60's cowl induction. I have made many posts on this, so read this link and please understand how it works.

SOUTHRNFRESH ť Why “hood risers” may actually hurt the performance of your car.

QUOTE:"It seems popular belief is that the air moving into the engine compartment from the bumper opening has enough pressure and flow to significantly pressureize the engine bay with air and that opening the back of the hood allows the air to be pushed up and out the back. THIS IS NOT TRUE.

THIS IS A LIE. A MISCONCEPTION. IT DOES NOT WORK LIKE THIS-"

http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/dtipsaerodynamics.html

 

That's good to know I have been doing it wrong all along lol.

 

dont feel bad. most of what i post i found out the hardway. sometimes i found it in the windtunnel, I have been fortunate to be able to spend time there over the past 20-30 years. sometimes i learned it from smarter guys than me.
sometimes i learned it drafting my 5 ton(with my race car in the back) for hours on the prairies fighting headwinds and trying to save fuel so I could eat and buy race tires...
fact. its less gas climbing the rockies up and down the other side, than it is driving across the prairies in a head wind.

hell i could catch a draft from a seagull...

 

Would have to agree Powell on the above , I m from the UK and mostly do track work with my car which has the A20 NFT engine in it , thankfully here it's not as hot as you guys have it in the states but once we start hitting the track courses with our cars where like stated it's hell for leather for 20-30 min sessions we use uprated radiators and aftermarket oil coolers to bring engine and coolant temps down to a manageable safe level . So question is do any of you run after market oil coolers ( air to oil ) at all and get rid of the silly coolant to oil heat exchanger (which I ve been told is there to actually bring the coolant / oil up to temp quicker

 

I have only once in ten years encountered track conditions where the stock radiator could not handle cooling. It was at Watkins glen and it was a very humid day. The corvettes suffered the sane fate. While it is true that the corvettes with alloy aftermarket radiators were okay
The margin of cooling corvette to any delta the delta is superior. I have built two versions of carbon fibre vented hood and the current one I have is theist aggressive and the most effective. That track day my car did nor overheat. It did run very close to the red however and normally it rubs off the thermostat. Although I changed the hood after that I have not encountered a similar day or the issue since then. For my money adding nose weight with an alloy radiator is not a requirement