LNF and dejon
i have tires, tmw sts, and meth all ready
from videos man the straight piped T/C sound like **** because i was debating on doing it.. but then again video quality blows
i was looking at getting the solid motor mount too as my next mod
from videos man the straight piped T/C sound like **** because i was debating on doing it.. but then again video quality blows
i was looking at getting the solid motor mount too as my next mod
Rotated trans mounts.
Don't waste your $$$$ on a solid upper...I had it and got rid of it.
If you want a different exhaust set up go with the MES's 3 incher...I could take off the muffler and ride around as much as I want if I wanted to, then if I decide I don't like it I could throw the muffler right back on.
Don't waste your $$$$ on a solid upper...I had it and got rid of it.
If you want a different exhaust set up go with the MES's 3 incher...I could take off the muffler and ride around as much as I want if I wanted to, then if I decide I don't like it I could throw the muffler right back on.
Personally I have a Dejon SRI and I love it. Havent had a problem with it, and it looks and sounds great! Also, he did an awesome job powdercoating to match the car.
How do you like the STS? Is it noticably shorter than the stock STS? Have you had any problems with it? I heard there were issues with aftermarket STS damaging other components. Personally Id just like something that shifts smoother.
How do you like the STS? Is it noticably shorter than the stock STS? Have you had any problems with it? I heard there were issues with aftermarket STS damaging other components. Personally Id just like something that shifts smoother.
Last edited by 80vetteL82; Jun 14, 2009 at 09:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
WRONG HOMIE!!!!!
Crazy steve has a 250$ intercooler and its on my car and it rips pretty hard.... btw i messed with my wastegate actuator and got more boost out of my lil POS and when i got tuned i had a hole in my downpipe the size of a baseball... the flex pipe was almost completely torn
now that i have my stock twin catted dp on it pulls harder then when i just got tuned with the "holy" downpipe
... once my downpipe gets fixed your "update" better be ready
Crazy steve has a 250$ intercooler and its on my car and it rips pretty hard.... btw i messed with my wastegate actuator and got more boost out of my lil POS and when i got tuned i had a hole in my downpipe the size of a baseball... the flex pipe was almost completely torn

I havent forgot about that mess.
Last edited by Terminator2; Jun 14, 2009 at 09:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
These are metered cars. How are you able to not get check engine lights if your car can't figure now if its going Lean or Rich?
Open was 1hp higher 2 lb/ft tq less that's right kids,the numbers don't lie a cutout is a waste of money for no gains.
Anyways Crazysteves IC looks like it has too much volume for the K04 to boost through efficiently.
metered cars do you even know what your talking about!
for one our cars have a Lambda (factory wideband) in the 02 housin located just before the DP and that tells the ecm exactly how much fuel to add or remove to an almost exact and way faster then the narrowbands ever can and will and it has nothing to do with the cats hense its located before it.. the second 02 sensor doesnt do **** besides tell the ecm if the cat is working or not by a voltage. this sensor doesnt affect how the car opperates. The post 02 sensors are called efficiency sensors. when u go catless you tune and you can delete the code from the ecm's memory as if the code never exists so the dtc will never show up.
Also like to point out my car isnt raspy at all. go listen to a srt4 neon straight 3" and the is to honest god what my car sounds like and the whistle from the turbo at idle and coast/cruise is crazy noticable.
I am a gm trained tech and i know how to **** with a car to not get DTC's and so the car runs rite
and also my crazy steve IC fit fine and no boost issues and a great benificial increase in cooler intake temps. i boost solid and fast also my tune helped
cut outs wont see power increase it actualy creates a turbulance in the exhaust flow slowing turbo spooling. that is why you want an even smooth mandrel bent exhaust system to prevent that.
for one our cars have a Lambda (factory wideband) in the 02 housin located just before the DP and that tells the ecm exactly how much fuel to add or remove to an almost exact and way faster then the narrowbands ever can and will and it has nothing to do with the cats hense its located before it.. the second 02 sensor doesnt do **** besides tell the ecm if the cat is working or not by a voltage. this sensor doesnt affect how the car opperates. The post 02 sensors are called efficiency sensors. when u go catless you tune and you can delete the code from the ecm's memory as if the code never exists so the dtc will never show up.
Also like to point out my car isnt raspy at all. go listen to a srt4 neon straight 3" and the is to honest god what my car sounds like and the whistle from the turbo at idle and coast/cruise is crazy noticable.
I am a gm trained tech and i know how to **** with a car to not get DTC's and so the car runs rite
and also my crazy steve IC fit fine and no boost issues and a great benificial increase in cooler intake temps. i boost solid and fast also my tune helped
What is the appeal of the cutout?The reason I ask is because I had a DP on my SRT4 with a cutout,and 2 1/2'' cat back,just like our stock exhaust.I dynoed 2 with the cutout closed and 2 with it open,The result........
Open was 1hp higher 2 lb/ft tq less that's right kids,the numbers don't lie a cutout is a waste of money for no gains.
Open was 1hp higher 2 lb/ft tq less that's right kids,the numbers don't lie a cutout is a waste of money for no gains.
Last edited by sheldon729; Jun 14, 2009 at 11:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
nice to hear that i like that one better then any of the others out for our cars. did you get the weighted knob and the bushings?
yep stainless steel knob.... i got the bushings but i never installed them... ill send u mine for like 20 bucks plus shipping if you were goin to purchase them
metered cars do you even know what your talking about!
for one our cars have a Lambda (factory wideband) in the 02 housin located just before the DP and that tells the ecm exactly how much fuel to add or remove to an almost exact and way faster then the narrowbands ever can and will and it has nothing to do with the cats hense its located before it.. the second 02 sensor doesnt do **** besides tell the ecm if the cat is working or not by a voltage. this sensor doesnt affect how the car opperates. The post 02 sensors are called efficiency sensors. when u go catless you tune and you can delete the code from the ecm's memory as if the code never exists so the dtc will never show up.
Also like to point out my car isnt raspy at all. go listen to a srt4 neon straight 3" and the is to honest god what my car sounds like and the whistle from the turbo at idle and coast/cruise is crazy noticable.
I am a gm trained tech and i know how to **** with a car to not get DTC's and so the car runs rite
and also my crazy steve IC fit fine and no boost issues and a great benificial increase in cooler intake temps. i boost solid and fast also my tune helped
cut outs wont see power increase it actualy creates a turbulance in the exhaust flow slowing turbo spooling. that is why you want an even smooth mandrel bent exhaust system to prevent that.
for one our cars have a Lambda (factory wideband) in the 02 housin located just before the DP and that tells the ecm exactly how much fuel to add or remove to an almost exact and way faster then the narrowbands ever can and will and it has nothing to do with the cats hense its located before it.. the second 02 sensor doesnt do **** besides tell the ecm if the cat is working or not by a voltage. this sensor doesnt affect how the car opperates. The post 02 sensors are called efficiency sensors. when u go catless you tune and you can delete the code from the ecm's memory as if the code never exists so the dtc will never show up.
Also like to point out my car isnt raspy at all. go listen to a srt4 neon straight 3" and the is to honest god what my car sounds like and the whistle from the turbo at idle and coast/cruise is crazy noticable.
I am a gm trained tech and i know how to **** with a car to not get DTC's and so the car runs rite
and also my crazy steve IC fit fine and no boost issues and a great benificial increase in cooler intake temps. i boost solid and fast also my tune helped
cut outs wont see power increase it actualy creates a turbulance in the exhaust flow slowing turbo spooling. that is why you want an even smooth mandrel bent exhaust system to prevent that.
Well, people just keep going back and forth with the whole putting BOV in. I'm not a GM tech so don't expect me to know what you do guy. I was told by Dan at CIA that when I ask him about doing a BOV. My stock flutters throughout the powerband. I wanting to get rid of that so I asked and I was told to keep the recirc cause these are metered cars. sorry now I'm just lost once again. So a BOV is good to use Mr.Goodwrench?
recirc or external is good but if you want a bigger or better turbo you need to get rid of that stock internal bov. i got minimal flutter but barely any and it dont affect anything. that flutter is also known as compressor surge. if you upgrade that sring you many noticed it a lil more being it is stiffer. there are no sensors that monitor the air recirc'd. the bov solenoid is ecm controlled and needs to remain connected or you will get a bypass vlave stuck code other then that no nothing with andthing else as long as you hook it all up rite.. the only benifit of disabling the stock internal valve it you can upgrade the turbo and you get the louder bov noise. now from recirc compared to vent to atmos is recir helps build the boost better ever the air bypass'd seen as its put back in front of the turbo but it can increase you intake temps due to you are puting heat soak air from the turbo back into the intake path of the turbo to only get heated more. also compressing air heats it so recircing if will take the air and feed it bcak into the turbo inlet to be compressed again heating it more. yes the intercooler cools it but the air is less dense meaning the air has less oxygen per volume. that is y we want nice cool/cold air it is vert dense (more oxygen per volume) which is what creates power once the fuel is mix with and ignited.
The MAF measures this density in grams/second by the wieght of the air and the ecm takes that and looks at progammed charts to measure density of the air and produces an output to better the performance of the engine. not going into detail on that. US measurement may be differ from ours like we use Kpa and u use psi and such forth.
Also if your getting bov flutter while on the throttle then you got an issue with you bov is shouldnt make any noise when boosing/ under load
The MAF measures this density in grams/second by the wieght of the air and the ecm takes that and looks at progammed charts to measure density of the air and produces an output to better the performance of the engine. not going into detail on that. US measurement may be differ from ours like we use Kpa and u use psi and such forth.
Also if your getting bov flutter while on the throttle then you got an issue with you bov is shouldnt make any noise when boosing/ under load
ahh i see what the issue is .. just a slight misunder standing.. what he's saying is using a atmospheric bov could cause issues because it's venting metered air however you could make it recirculate and it'd be fine the issue with a VTA bov is that when you shift you'll more then likely go rich during shifts and bog when you hit the gas again
yes after a large amount of air the mafs has measured is vented usualy in high range gears the ecm will set a DTC reguarding MAF performance. becuase the map doesnt see the measured air so the ecm automaticly suspects the maf is faulty so it sets the pestky performance code. that is why if you go to Atmos vent YOU NEED TO TUNE or you will get the performance code. i see what he was referring to now. when racing or normal daily driving you wont see that code and well actualy there isnt ever bogging at all. this is only a issue once you hit 4th to 5th on highway speeds taking it easy. tune it and you good.
also if you do not got plans to change the turbo dont touch the bov no need to just get dejons spring and your set.
also if you do not got plans to change the turbo dont touch the bov no need to just get dejons spring and your set.
ahh i see what the issue is .. just a slight misunder standing.. what he's saying is using a atmospheric bov could cause issues because it's venting metered air however you could make it recirculate and it'd be fine the issue with a VTA bov is that when you shift you'll more then likely go rich during shifts and bog when you hit the gas again
Thank you, yes that is what I meant.
that is y there was a lot of discusion on tuning once you go external atmosphere bov set up. it will induce a limp mode otherwise becuase the ecm doesnt trust the input (measured air form the maf) so it goes the a programmed limp mit to be safe until ignition is resest. (turned off then on)
No, i got the block off plate it just allows you to remove the vacuum line and use it for the new bov. that way it look better and help keep the stock bov sealed. you keep all the diaphram and spring in it behind the plate.




