Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

Our engines are more susceptible to it because there isn't a constant flow of gasoline (which has detergent additives) across the back of the valves, but it doesn't mean you are guaranteed to have carbon buildup on the valves.

Certainly seafoaming regularly helps prevent build up, but once it's there seafoam will not remove it.

Keeping the RPMS up a little helps, though the more important thing is just not lugging it so the cylinder temp doesn't climb.

Keeping the oil clean helps of course, as does running a lower ash oil base.

And a good air/oil separator for your PCV system keeps the engine from sucking blowby oil back into your intake and across the back of your valves. That's where John's new setup will help considerably.

Because let's face it, any engine is going to get some blowby as they age. If you can catch that oil before it gets baked onto the back of your valves you'll extend the life of your engine.

vahdyx

iTrader: (7)

Powell suggested I get a Baroscope, but they're expensive. How do you guys check without one? Something a novice like myself can do without too much **** up or is it something I should just wait on.

bspeed

iTrader: (1)

Where would you put the bore scope in to get a good view of the valves I have one

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

not easy to get them all, but remove the vacuum booster line and fitting from the IM it gives you a nice big orifice to go in with. Good luck.

gone_in_10_sec

Using the LNF as DD isn't going to be huge issue at all, the problem is being on top of everything and making sure everything is ok.. [fluids/ not beating the car up/ etc..]

With John's Powell new product, it will cure 99% of the problem, BUT you will still need to be on top of it.. (checking the oil and add oil, using quality oil [Mobile 1], quality oil filters [K&N or AC/Delco], Seafoam with every oil change).. once your doing this the car should last for along time.. maybe over 200k+ miles..

blrt

I guess the thing I have going right for me is have a higher revving 4.45 gear, my commutes is around 35 miles each way 90% of the time, let my engine warm up close to operating temp before driving off, low ash oil or zinc additive is a double edge sword giving up some antiware for less coking in the oil. Getting John's pcv kit will further help fight the gunk.

gone_in_10_sec

As long you keep an eye out for the oil coking, then your car should last for a long time.. as long as you don't beat on it..

cw383

iTrader: (6)

Hey BLRT, how did those 4.45's effect MPG's and daily driving? I thought my 1st gear was all but useless due to having to hit 2nd at about 20mph.

blrt

I suppose spending $2K to rebuild my head/valve at 100k miles seems reasonable to me?

Mr Al

How much is a few coins? I need to budget this in a couple years.

Thanks,

Al

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

24.99 for the gun
1 Liter Abrasive Blast Gun

23.99 for the medium
Fine Grade Walnut Shell Blast Media - Harbor Freight Tools

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

wow. i didnt know you could buy that stuff from Harbor Freight.

Chevy_tuner

iTrader: (1)

Looking at the pics..........walnut blasting can be done with the head still installed?

No worries of some entering the cylinders?

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

You can do it head on. That's how BMMW does it for their DI motors. You need to make sure the valve is fully shut, so that means rotating the engine over as you go through the valves in order. If you do happen to get a tiny bit in there.... well, it's walnut shells, not sand or silica.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Forgive my ignorance but what is the correct procedure of rotating the engine for this?



https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3Ta...aEE/edit?pli=1

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Look in the port once the IM is removed. Put the car in 4th gear. roll the car forward or back until you see both valves closed. work on that port. repeat until all four are done. (thats the easy way) OR Remove rocker cover and rotate motor the same way in 4th gear to you can see the inlet cam lobes peaks facing upward on the one cylinder, then those valves are closed. Repeat 3 more times. lol

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

correct walnuts are wood and burn harmlessly.

WARNING proper shielding with a blanket to cover all ancillaries is recommended, the walnuts get everywhere (especially if you have your mouth open lol)

and the HF el cheap gun needs a decent tip so buy an extra good tip with a flexible extension to get in the port easily...

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Subbed. Going to probably do this here soon to get rid of the gunk and then buy powells catch can.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Please its a seperator, not a can lol. Talking of the bandwagon, Lingenfelter are using the same style seperator |(only the 200 series which is much larger) for their LS motor conversions now. A lot more money of course.

FMSR Performance

iTrader: (1)

Normally walnut blast is around 3-500 depending on how bad it is..

We provide this service.. pm me.

FMSR Performance

iTrader: (1)

John sent email..

QuickSilver_SS

What psi would we run that gun at to clean the valves? Also, what extra tip should we get? And if some walnut blast does get into the cylinder. Will it destroy the walls? I guess after blasting the valves i should vacuum up inside the valves as well as blow some clean air in there to remove any left over blast material?

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

Nothing happens if some gets in the cylinder if it's only just a tiny amount. It's wood, it'll burn. That's why you use walnut shells, not sand or other silicate abrasive.

QuickSilver_SS

I kind of figured wallnut shell was used for a reason and wouldn't hurt the cylinder if it got in there. But i just wanted to make sure. Any idea as to how much psi to run through the gun. Any where from 25 to 150 ??

idrinkV8

90psi for the gun from HF ^