Looking for hp, best bang for your buck .
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Looking for hp, best bang for your buck .
Hey guys I have a 2010 cobalt ss/tc with a gm stage 1 tune , cat back exhaust , and k&n cold air , any have any ideas for more power ? I don't wanna dump like 10g into but wouldn't mind a better tune maybe . I'm pushing about 21psi now . Can the turbo handle anymore ? Thanks for any info
#4
Downpipe tune
The tune will be the biggest deal here find a good tuner go with e47 for the best possible gains. Even without e youve got atleast 30-40hp still on the table with a custom tune and downpipe, the intercooler and upper charge pipe are a good upgrade for durability
The tune will be the biggest deal here find a good tuner go with e47 for the best possible gains. Even without e youve got atleast 30-40hp still on the table with a custom tune and downpipe, the intercooler and upper charge pipe are a good upgrade for durability
#8
Hey guys I have a 2010 cobalt ss/tc with a gm stage 1 tune , cat back exhaust , and k&n cold air , any have any ideas for more power ? I don't wanna dump like 10g into but wouldn't mind a better tune maybe . I'm pushing about 21psi now . Can the turbo handle anymore ? Thanks for any info
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Thanks for info guys .. I have a aftermarket catted down pipe on my car . Since Ill be changing the intercooler and charge pipes was wondering about putting BOV instead of a recirculated dump. Which is better ? Would it cause any lag if I switch to an external
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How reliable would my engine be at 400whp ? I've heard other people say the go unreliable over 380, any truth to that ?
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i ran 25.5PSI for 3 years on my K04. Get a good tuner, drive well, dont drive stupid and you will be more than fine. -- 324hp/380tq
your engine will only be as reliable as your driving and maintenance habits!
your engine will only be as reliable as your driving and maintenance habits!
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Plenty reliable. There are many people at almost 450 whp doing just fine. Now if we are talking stock turbo, anything over 350ish is going to be hard on the car because of the heat the stock k04 produces. If you swap to a ZFR you'll be just fine.
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Do not run a BOV, leave the stock BPV. It will just cause headaches and problems. The LNF runs in a nice closed loop; meetered air comes in and afr is monitored on the way out. Leaking air out screws things up. If you want a louder turbo noise, get an intake.
Plenty reliable. There are many people at almost 450 whp doing just fine. Now if we are talking stock turbo, anything over 350ish is going to be hard on the car because of the heat the stock k04 produces. If you swap to a ZFR you'll be just fine.
Plenty reliable. There are many people at almost 450 whp doing just fine. Now if we are talking stock turbo, anything over 350ish is going to be hard on the car because of the heat the stock k04 produces. If you swap to a ZFR you'll be just fine.
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ZFR is direct bolt one. Took me about 4 hrs with my buddy who is a GM certified tech.
Intercooler isnt a must - but odds are you will break the stock plastic housings. The ZFR really shines in the high rpms where boost doesn't drop off the face of the earth like the K04. I got valve springs when i did my ZFR and run up to 7300rpm. So people on here run stock head up to 7300 no issues. Its up to you on that front. all other bolt are not needed - but will run better.
If you get the valve springs - from my experience, you should replace the timer chain tensioner every season.
Intercooler isnt a must - but odds are you will break the stock plastic housings. The ZFR really shines in the high rpms where boost doesn't drop off the face of the earth like the K04. I got valve springs when i did my ZFR and run up to 7300rpm. So people on here run stock head up to 7300 no issues. Its up to you on that front. all other bolt are not needed - but will run better.
If you get the valve springs - from my experience, you should replace the timer chain tensioner every season.
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ZFR is direct bolt one. Took me about 4 hrs with my buddy who is a GM certified tech.
Intercooler isnt a must - but odds are you will break the stock plastic housings. The ZFR really shines in the high rpms where boost doesn't drop off the face of the earth like the K04. I got valve springs when i did my ZFR and run up to 7300rpm. So people on here run stock head up to 7300 no issues. Its up to you on that front. all other bolt are not needed - but will run better.
If you get the valve springs - from my experience, you should replace the timer chain tensioner every season.
Intercooler isnt a must - but odds are you will break the stock plastic housings. The ZFR really shines in the high rpms where boost doesn't drop off the face of the earth like the K04. I got valve springs when i did my ZFR and run up to 7300rpm. So people on here run stock head up to 7300 no issues. Its up to you on that front. all other bolt are not needed - but will run better.
If you get the valve springs - from my experience, you should replace the timer chain tensioner every season.
#17
Zzp tested the engine to 550whp, that's when a rod bent. But as far as reliability goes, obviously the more power the lower ur engine life. A lot of guys have run 400-450 , maybe little more whp on stock engine for years with no problems. I'd say keep it between 400-450whp and it will be just fine. Those who say 380 obviously don't know what they are talking about or are just throwing numbers out there or basing it on bad tunes or broken trannys because of fast spooling turbos and a lot of torque
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