Guess I was just so busy I forgot to update this. Got everything bolted up and started the car and it idled fine but the turbo was real noisy. Checked my feed and it was getting oil so I pulled the turbo off. Two weeks went by and it had just sat at precision so I called and told them about it being my daily and not having anything besides my CBR to use for transportation. So they opened it up and the whole internals were caked in hot burnt oil. Evidence of why to use a turbo timer or let the turbo cool down. $900 later the turbo will be arriving on my front door step today. Hopefully all goes well this weekend and I'll be driving it for break in. But after that I have to either buy two new axles or pull mine out to have the boots repaired because they got torn when I had the car apart.

 

Like I told ya, have them fixed a Rack and axle. At most your looking at $75 for new boots installed and that's total, lol.

robk

 

yeah that's the plan. Hopefully I can get them out tonight or tomorrow night , I don't have any air tools at my parents anymore so it's going to be a pain

 

Electric impact guns are still beast

 

I need to buy one of those lol

 

Its still very doable with hand tools. I changed out a hub once on nicks old lsj with nothing but 3/8" hand tools, lol

robk

 

Got the car back together and went to drive and I only have 1st and 3rd and barely 5th sometimes. The battery is also shot haha. I think I'm just going to drop it off at chevy to have them fix the shift issue

 

Check your shifter linkage adjustments

 

where do I adjust them at?

 

Remove the cupholder
There are two retaining clips, open them and move the shifter in small increments to adjust

 

cables are broken. Ordering new ones Wednesday

 

Picking up shifter cables Friday and hopefully a battery too! Can't wait to get this thing back on the road.

 

Confirmed that I'll have shifter cables and a battery Friday! Can't wait

 

Trying to build my own boost reference return style fuel system for the fifth injector kit im putting together. Hopefully it all works out

 

Can you elaborate on the details of the problems with a standard 5th injector design?

For reference: http://www.4ezt.com/5thInjectorInstall.pdf

This is the setup that gmtech used in his sky and others as well without any issues. ZZP, ryan, cmiller, and others have used the 5th injector to reach their goals as well.

What are your plans?

 

The setup will work but it's inefficient and I want to make use of what I'm buying and do it right. I also will be running a wet shot so I need fueling for that. The manifold pressure will be fighting the fuel pressure from the test port. He's a quote from a company that creates the 5th injector kit for the MS3. "Also another thing to note. These injectors are rated at a given flow at a working pressure. The LPFP on this system does not alter pressure based on delta pressure (working pressure at the injector). So if they say for simple math flow 1000cc at 43psi fuel pressure, and you are now trying to inject them into a pressurized manifold of say 25psi, you have effectively cut the flow rate down to 18psi delta, and now your 1000cc injector only flows 643cc's. Something to note and keep in your pocket when guys start trying to calibrate for them and also put a "given hp increase ability" you basically have to go super large with the injector because the more boost in your manifold the less operating pressure the injector will be running off of.

 

So what are you going to be doing?

 

My plan is to run the AEM green LPFP with a -6an feed line to a AEM fuel filter and more -6an to a Boost Reference Fuel Pressure regulator with a -6an return line off the regulator. Then -6an line to a Y-block in my engine bay that splits a -4an feed line off for my wet nitrous kit and a -6an feed line to my DI inlet and the fifth injector will run off the test port just like in the kit you linked. The boost reference regulator will raise fuel pressure 1:1 so the injector will be working at what its capacity is.

 

Picked up a TWM short shifter and cable clamp today from a local for a nice price. Hopefully the clamp will work to get all my gears back.

 

Honestly just want to light my car on fire . These shift cables are a pain in the ass.

 

You paid $900 for a stock turbo?

 

No, he originally had a 5858 and traded for a 6262 that was bad. The $900 was the cost to have Precision rebuild the 6262.

robk

 

no haha I originally had a BNR2871 which I sold and used the money to buy Cmillers old bb 5857 and then decided I wanted a 6262 so I went and swapped my 5857 onto another local cobalt and took his 6262 and it ended up having bearings and a whole CHRA that were oil coked and shot. So I had to send it out to precision and pay $900 for a full rebuild with new bearings and all. Ceramic ball bearings are expensive

 

Ahhhhh. I was gonna come through your screen and smack you for paying $900 on a stock turbo. Lol.

 

hail naw. I kinda did the math and split up the package deal I got and I payed like $400 for the 5857 and then straight traded it. So $400 into a blown bb 6262 and then a $900 rebuild so $1300 for a fresh bb 6262 , which is 1600+tax brand new and the rebuild has a warranty. so I still came out a little on top haha