need a clutch?
Ok i had a spec 3 in my lsj and it span its rivots out and the pads came off in chunks. Went to ky clutch. Never had a issue. Lnf i used clutchmasters 6 puck stsge four. I blew two of them up. Went to ky clutch used there 6 puck and 8 puck never had a issue. At all
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And thr ky clutch comes with a year warranty as long as theres proof it was put in by a ase certified tech. .. Ky clutch makes there own. Friction discs. All clutch companys use the same pressure plates like sachs exedy ect.
Lets just say 6 trannys and 4 were quaife trannys. 33Lbs was up there if i remember it was either a tad more then 500 or a little less.... Ill have to call the shop that did the dyno in cali to get the correct number it was jjst a tad more the whp. My whp was 496 on 33lbs...... My s20g compressor wheels have been upgraded and enlarged a tad for better flow. Im showing 55 lbs per min maf and ve at 24-26 just depends on air temps
Lets just say 6 trannys and 4 were quaife trannys. 33Lbs was up there if i remember it was either a tad more then 500 or a little less.... Ill have to call the shop that did the dyno in cali to get the correct number it was jjst a tad more the whp. My whp was 496 on 33lbs...... My s20g compressor wheels have been upgraded and enlarged a tad for better flow. Im showing 55 lbs per min maf and ve at 24-26 just depends on air temps
i have the ky clutch is had to get use to how hard it grabs but i really like it and for the price you can't beat it and it does come with the warranty and even if it blows for the price i could afford to buy another one and still would have barely spent enough to buy one spec 3+
Well if my Spec 3+ clutch and Spec flywheel crap out on me,
I will probably try a Kentucky clutch next.
But so far my Spec 3+ is holding up nicely, doesn't necessarily mean its going to last a long time though, we will see.
I will be honest though I hate how revs/boost drop off so fast with a lightweight flywheel between shifts. I do accelerate faster, but haven't decided if its worth the trade off of yet.
I will probably try a Kentucky clutch next.
But so far my Spec 3+ is holding up nicely, doesn't necessarily mean its going to last a long time though, we will see.
I will be honest though I hate how revs/boost drop off so fast with a lightweight flywheel between shifts. I do accelerate faster, but haven't decided if its worth the trade off of yet.
I've got finals this Friday (and next) and this Sunday we are having a meet LNF/SS meet in Birmingham.
Plus no mod money left this month, I just recieved my ZZP MAF relocate kit yesterday.
If you guys are not replacing the flywheel it MUST MUST MUST be machined to give the clutch a new surface to grab. If not it can have severely detrimental effects one the new clutch face/pucks... I went with exedy hypersingle and it is great. Now that I am used to the clutch it feels much better than stock. Your left leg is going to be surprised at the amount of pressure it takes to disengage it the first few times but it feels great after a while.
I would also say that the stocker is quite good. Having driven many different cars I have gotten ok at driving over that time. My stock one was in amazing condition when it was removed, even though the clutch would slip worse if I did what the OP did in the video. I would say that unless you are really trying to mess up the clutch the stocker is good about 80% of the time.
I would also say that the stocker is quite good. Having driven many different cars I have gotten ok at driving over that time. My stock one was in amazing condition when it was removed, even though the clutch would slip worse if I did what the OP did in the video. I would say that unless you are really trying to mess up the clutch the stocker is good about 80% of the time.
i just ordered a Clutchmasters Stage 4 6puck clutch from MPX, hope it works out good, im going to re-use the stock flywheel though so i will need to get it re-surfaced
Yes... make sure the shop knows that you want them to resurface it... it might be an extra charge but if you don't it will lead to uneven wear on the clutch. I can't help but speculate that the failures in the clutches mentioned before were from poor installs where the flywheel was not resurfaced or was misaligned. Even a shop makes mistakes... but it could be the clutch company too... really on a wear item like a clutch the blame can be placed anywhere from the company that made the part to the driver who uses it every day.
sooo why dont people just get a replacement stock lnf flywheel and the ky clutch? Where would you even get an LNF flywheel, was the part # for ced. Think That would be the way I go.
Also if you feel that the clutch is to cheap, i will buy one from KY and sell you a brand new Baron7700 Motors clutch for the same price of the exedy. Just ignore anything saying KY clutch on it, i dont know what your talking about
Also if you feel that the clutch is to cheap, i will buy one from KY and sell you a brand new Baron7700 Motors clutch for the same price of the exedy. Just ignore anything saying KY clutch on it, i dont know what your talking about
I would also say that the stocker is quite good. Having driven many different cars I have gotten ok at driving over that time. My stock one was in amazing condition when it was removed, even though the clutch would slip worse if I did what the OP did in the video. I would say that unless you are really trying to mess up the clutch the stocker is good about 80% of the time.


