am i the only one having problems no lift shifting from 2nd to 3rd? this is like the 3rd time iv nailed the shift with out missing 3rd and i just get a blinking engine light then it goes away and car stopped pulling until i went out of third and back into it?

 

What are the codes? Blinking CEL is generally misfires greater then 200, so new plugs may fix the problem. Pull the codes first

 

ill check codes tomorrow at work but iv had this problem when the car was stock like 2 years ago now I'm bolted and trifecta tuned

 

when do you shift? Im assuming your coolant temp is at least 180*F before your trying this.

The tac is slower than the engines actual speed. If your waiting too long, you maybe redlining it before the shift. Try shifting at 5900rpm or 6000rpm and see if you get the same problem. Also I wouldnt NLS a tuned car.

 

Usually misfired from a nls on a tuned car are a clear sign of clutch slipping or shifting too late.

 

L2drive

 

my clutch does sleep at low rpms in 3-4-5 if i step on it. and ik how to drive i got in gear in the nls with out redlining

 

If your clutch is slipping, stop NLS'ing the car....

 

Hell, you should have stopped NLS'ing the moment you put the tune on there. Tell me the rev limit wasn't raised in the tune.

 

There is nothing wrong with NLS a tuned car if you know how to do it, parameters can be adjusted in the tune to allow this. After seeing countless threads from OP I believe next one will be blown trans. Stop NLS the car if its misfiring.

 

Or replace a clutch if its slipping... That's step 1.

 

yea I'm not even gonna try nls again till i get my hp tune and try to get tuned for it

 

BAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAAHHAHAHHAHAHAHAH AAHAHAH

It's only a matter of time before your "nls tuned car parameters" don't mean anything and the clutch slips. Hp, trifecta whatever..

The stock transmission/clutch were not meant to handle tuned power, and gms1 is but a factory reflash.

 

stop nlsing. problem solved

 

You realize NLS isn't anything new? Wot boxes have been used for decades. If NLS was that bad on a tuned vehicle gms1 would disable it based on your theory since said tuned vehicle can't handle it. Who said anything about a stock clutch? My clutch doesn't slip at all, neither does my gf's 09 LNF in which is tuned, stock clutch, and 63,000miles. The issues with breaking transmissions is the tq load/spike not from a NLS into 3rd. Most if not all people that break third gear are doing a third gear pull and are in the rpm range from 3,500 and up not grabbing a 2nd to 3rd NLS. I agree you can get clutch slip from 2nd to 3rd NLS because the clutch is taking the massive hit from the gear shift. Get a 4.45 and clinch problem solved. I do also agree that the stock clutch/trans aren't ment for tuned power to an extent. not the NLS part. It's hard on the car for sure, but not the big issue with trans IMO. Most people breaking third have a big turbo, good clutch and it pops doing a 3rd gear pull. Which is why I have a gmpp clutch and going 4.05 with my wr-3. There are also plenty of people on stock/clutch trans with aggressive tunes with out issue ie E47, hell there are a few people stock clutch/trans on a zfr. It's really how your car is tuned and driven. It may not be made to handle the power but in some cars it does.


But hey, it can't be that bad for the car since you race yours and quote "no lift shift the **** out of it" hahaha
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/war-...uttrro-280148/

 

This too, if you don't know what your car is doing/can't fix it when/if it breaks don't beat on it. Only time I ever beat on my car is when racing.

 

I was getting issues like this myself while NLSing. For me, it turned out to be my Intake and Exhaust Cam Actuator Valves (the ones on the top of the valve cover on the passenger side). Making sure your oil is good and clean helps too, because its all run off oil pressure and if the screens on the Actuator valves get clogged they aren't going to work properly.

Even if they aren't giving you codes, and they have been in the car for a long time (mine went after 100,000 kms), it might be a good idea to change them. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace. It might just be your problem.

However, if your clutch is slipping in as low as 3rd gear, that might not be good either. heh.

P.S.- I've been NLSing on a Trifecta 23 psi tune for 3 years and no problems aside from stuff like those actuators. NLSing is fine. Just be careful, and make sure you shift fast enough when the engine is good and warm.

 

Don't shift super fast though.

 

That's a good point. You wanna shift quick, but smooth is better. The time frame on shifting bigger than you think. I think it's like half a second or something like that. maybe a little less. But when it comes to shifting that's lots. Did GM actually list any official documentation on how fast you need to shift? Because it sure didn't say in my manual. It just said, "It has the feature!! go nuts!" haha