Engine braking is leaving it in gear and letting the engine slow you down.

Puts a lot of load on the crank and crank bearings, which once broken in, should never have a problem.

Also Map, what you described would be dragging the clutch, which would put all the load on it. Just remember IF people are doing this: slipping the clutch=bad.

Unless you have a slipper clutch

I drove easy for 500 miles, then let er rip. I drive my car respectfully though, and the car has one track day under its belt.

40rty...it would cost you some coin friend.

 

 

It's not the same kind of shock the engine gets from a down shift to engine braking. Additionally, you really don't need to worry about break in on the crank and rod bearings. Your main focus is to seat the piston rings.

But of course I'm wrong, I only had a GM powertrain engineer drive my car and show me the best break in procedure.

Also, out of what I said...where did you get the idea that I was telling anyone to slip their clutch?

 

Honestly, it would probably be cheaper and easier to just buy a new transmission with the LSD already in it that to pull yours, tear it open, install it, put it back together, and hope you didn't forget something. That's if you're really serious about doing it. Either option will cost a lot more than that $495 box on the order sheet.

 

Did you just say " Buy a new transmission" What?:O this car is only a week old. Wow in that case then I'll just stick with what I have. I thought it was easier to just go to the dealership and be a quick install.

 

I did...the LSD is actually a replacement for the open differential inside the transmission, so if you want to install one, you have to pull and disassemble the transmission.

Honestly, though, you won't notice it too much unless you're on a track. Even without that mechanical unit inside the tranny, the car will use the stability control system to "simulate" it by applying brakes to individual wheels to keep you from sliding all over the place.

 

dont listen to him

you dont need competition mode....

no lift shift a little before rev limiter.... keep foot on gas+push clutch and shift as fast as u possibly can

 

Hmm, interesting. I heard otherwise. Seeing as how you have the car and I don't, I think i'll take your word for it.

Learn something new every day.

 

you TC guys really should invest in a pyrometer(egt gauge) cuz u dont want to shut the car off if it has just been worked hard and hot. you should let it idle(probably around 300* or so warmed up at idle) to cool off b4 shutting down.

 

I wasn't...stop getting defensive on every post.


Grow up damn.

 

So, one guy says to not worry about cooling the car does it already, now I have the quote above recommending in getting some pyrometer to help cool things down. I'm in a bind, which is right. Chicken or lasgna people. NLS- Can't wait to be able to gun her good. Anything on intakes?

 

well i dont own onw, but the turbow cant cool itself down really unless it it spinning(running).
my dad has a 97 powerstroke(nonintercooled) so it can build a lot of heat and quick so you gotta watch your egt's. but the LNF's are intercooled so they shouldntd run as hot but if you just got done climing a long grade or doing a 3rd gear WOT run and then just turn it off, its not good for it. jsut let it idle for a few mins and your good. How ever, if your just cruising down the freeway or in stop and go traffic, you;ll be just fine turning it off after you park or what have you. i have an SS/SC an im getting a pyrometer(egt gauge) just to be safe for tuning and all

 

as far as I know the tc has a turbo timer already.

 

My car's cooling system doesn't stay on after I take the keysout of the ignition.

 

Then you're not pushing the car hard enough.

 

Well maybe that a good thing since I only have 418 miles on it.

 

i have got 500 miles on the car and me and my brother went to try the no lift shift. It worked very well for 4 times, went home and then tried it again and all it did was grind gears. so tried it again same thing, I was a little mad so I did it one last time and same thing. So i dont know if I was doing something wrong of if it dont work anymore.

 

...are you forgetting to push the clutch in all the way?

 

honestly, people should get used to throwing gears VERY QUICKLY before attempting a no lift shift... you have to be quick about it, my brother drove my car and I let him try it, now he can drive a stick better than I can, but he was too "scared" to throw the gear as fast as he needed to, so he kept missing it... finally once I told him to stop being a bitch and just throw the damn gear, he got it... you can't be slow, you have to engage the clutch, lol... don't do it after 3rd

 

The 3>4 shift is the easiest to do it on. You don't even need an ECU algorythm to do it. Hell, I do it in my Camaro just fine. Pretty sure it didn't come with "no lift" shift feature...

 

Why not do no lift shift 3rd to 4th havent heard theat before here?

 

ive been sayin that since this little gimmick came out
but people get kinda butthurt about it.

everyone talks like this wot shifting thing is brand new or something lol

 

The NLS gives you .3 sec to complete the shift. But make sure you don't even burp the throttle or you'll lose the boost it's intended to hold. And I have to agree you can NLS any car you want.This just holds the RPMs between 5100-5300 for that .3 sec.

 

Exhaust gas temperatures are just that. Temperature of the burnt combustion gasses coming out of the engine, and if it's not running then you won't have EGT readings. If you're going to heavily modify the car, play with the tune and adjust things like fueling, etc., then EGT's can be a good thing to monitor for safety and to back up a wideband reading and other OBD-II data. But on a stock car an EGT gauge is not needed.
The Borg-Warner K04 turbocharger used on the SS Turbo has a "wet" CHRA (center housing rotating assembly). This means the center housing that contains the bearings and the shaft that links the compressor and turbine wheel is water and oil cooled. A "dry" housing (like is what is used on many diesel engines) is oil-only cooled and lubricated and doesn't have coolant lines running to the turbo. Whether the turbo is spinning or not does not make any difference how fast it cools down after shutoff. Your cylinder head and coolant temps may spike upwards on shutdown but the turbo and manifold will generally not get much, if any, hotter than they were while operating.

The water circulating through the turbo's center section helps a little during operation but is primarily to help cool the turbo down after the engine is turned off. This isn't always required with all turbos in all applications and why you'll find some vehicles that have only "dry" center sections (such as on many Holset turbochargers used on Cummins diesels, for example). When the car is shut off the engine-driven water pump and oil pump stop operating so there isn't going to be coolant forced through the turbo, but instead it works off a siphoning/convection principle. As the water in the turbo's housing heats up and boils off it circulates through the coolant path drawing in cooler coolant. Chrysler has a good SAE tech paper that describes the principle.

Many older turbochargers didn't have the best bearing materials and when used with older, poor quality conventional motor oil you'd experience problems with the oil coking in the bearings on shutdown. This meant that when the oil flow stopped when the engine was shut off you'd have a film left in the center section bearings of the turbo that would get extremely hot and literally cook, leaving carbon buildup that accelerated wear. Simply switching to a synthetic motor oil would completely solve the problem in all but the most extreme use, and with modern design advances for the bearings and seals as well as better water cooled center sections, even newer conventional oil will generally hold up well as long as you aren't boosting and under high load and immediately shutting the car off (and don't push the conventional motor oil for extended drain intervals).

The LNF engine in the new SS comes from the factory with Mobil 1 and we don't even have to worry about many of those issues. A turbo timer is absolutely not required on this car. The best thing you can do like mentioned is just drive easy and stay out of boost for the last couple miles/minutes of your drive. Even if you didn't you probably aren't going to experience any premature failures but if you plan to keep the car for a long time it wouldn't be the best idea to drive like that.

A couple other points. Diesels generally run quite a bit lower EGT's than a gasoline engine to start with. While I haven't measured it yet myself it wouldn't surprise me if the LNF was running 1600-1700°F EGTs like many other modern turbocharged gasoline engines. Elevated EGT's on a diesel anywhere near those levels could have a big impact and affect things like NOx emissions, damage particulate filters and other "clean diesel" aftertreatment systems, as well as increasing cylinder temps and cylinder pressure that are already high due to the nature of a diesel's compression ignition of the fuel. An intercooler is important and will help keep charge temps coming off the compressor side down (the heat comes from the act of compressing air and not from passing through a "hot" turbo), but it's not going to have a significant, direct affect on EGTs (although it can influence how lean the engine controller can run the car due to better knock/detonation tolerance being afforded by the cooler intake charge temps, and how rich or lean the engine runs then in turn affects EGTs).



It doesn't have one and is not needed. They're essentially a gimmick and I can't recall how many people have had electrical issues and other problem caused from them not the least of which is dealers not wanting to cover warranty work because one was installed. If you hammer a fully loaded car with four passengers and luggage up a steep mountain pass under high boost the entire way and that's the only type of driving you do then you might want to let the engine idle for a minute before shutting it off if you stop at the peak. If you're driving like that and pass over the summit and down the hill not under load and eventually stop after light driving you probably wouldn't need to even bother with any special cool down, even if you are occasionally in boost. There's no need to keep it running with a timer and you'll probably experience many other mechanical failures before you'd even statistically be able to see any difference (if at all) between a well maintained car that ran a timer and one that didn't.

 

^^

Holy ****!!!! Thank you so much for educating me. Wow, hell of a relief for me as now I have some more knowledge of my car. Thank you.

Is it considered a misfire when you hear the infamous "Pop" out the exhaust when NLS. What happening in the engine. I understand that its perfectly normal and a great indication that you have successfully NLS. Anyone?