Overboost
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Overboost
I am chasing an issue and to see if someone has had this before.
I ran a few searches and couldn't find much.
I have a boost gauge that takes its reading from the intake manifold but it doesn't match what Hptuners and what my radio logs from the ecu. The ecu reads about 23 psi and won't go over that, while the gauge on the intake manifold will go way past that. I have seen 35psi but if I don't let off it will continue to climb. The turbo is definitely boosting way past 23psi.
The car is currently tuned for ~27psi and the ecu reads below that, which make me think it's not commanding the wastegate to open.
At the moment I can't try to set the wastegate to open below 23 psi to troubleshoot because I need to get the readiness codes to complete. I been trying to get the stupid evap monitor to complete to pass emissions. Been trying for 3 weeks
I ran a few searches and couldn't find much.
I have a boost gauge that takes its reading from the intake manifold but it doesn't match what Hptuners and what my radio logs from the ecu. The ecu reads about 23 psi and won't go over that, while the gauge on the intake manifold will go way past that. I have seen 35psi but if I don't let off it will continue to climb. The turbo is definitely boosting way past 23psi.
The car is currently tuned for ~27psi and the ecu reads below that, which make me think it's not commanding the wastegate to open.
At the moment I can't try to set the wastegate to open below 23 psi to troubleshoot because I need to get the readiness codes to complete. I been trying to get the stupid evap monitor to complete to pass emissions. Been trying for 3 weeks
#3
I am chasing an issue and to see if someone has had this before.
I ran a few searches and couldn't find much.
I have a boost gauge that takes its reading from the intake manifold but it doesn't match what Hptuners and what my radio logs from the ecu. The ecu reads about 23 psi and won't go over that, while the gauge on the intake manifold will go way past that. I have seen 35psi but if I don't let off it will continue to climb. The turbo is definitely boosting way past 23psi.
The car is currently tuned for ~27psi and the ecu reads below that, which make me think it's not commanding the wastegate to open.
At the moment I can't try to set the wastegate to open below 23 psi to troubleshoot because I need to get the readiness codes to complete. I been trying to get the stupid evap monitor to complete to pass emissions. Been trying for 3 weeks
I ran a few searches and couldn't find much.
I have a boost gauge that takes its reading from the intake manifold but it doesn't match what Hptuners and what my radio logs from the ecu. The ecu reads about 23 psi and won't go over that, while the gauge on the intake manifold will go way past that. I have seen 35psi but if I don't let off it will continue to climb. The turbo is definitely boosting way past 23psi.
The car is currently tuned for ~27psi and the ecu reads below that, which make me think it's not commanding the wastegate to open.
At the moment I can't try to set the wastegate to open below 23 psi to troubleshoot because I need to get the readiness codes to complete. I been trying to get the stupid evap monitor to complete to pass emissions. Been trying for 3 weeks
The ECU reading on the manifold MAP will never read more than 22.5 psi (255kpa absolute), even if you have the 3 bar sensors from the GMS1 tune in it. That is hard coded into the ECU. If you are reading a sensor for your boost pressure, you must use the boost_lores sensor which is for the MAP in the lower charge pipe. This sensor, if it is the GMS1 version, will read up to the 3 bar limit (if you have the 3 bar GMS1 sensors).
So make sure you are not taking boost readings from the manifold sensor if trying to read more than 22.5psi or it will just cap itself at 22.5 psi.
edit: and for your emissions, NJ is allowed one monitor not ready status, so I would think you are allowed the same and should pass emissions (it that is the only monitor not ready). That one is a pain to get it to set ready.
#5
As for your boost level, something is either mechanically wrong, or your tuned is way off. 25-27psi is pretty high already. But even if tuned for 27psi, you should NEVER get near 35psi (if the gauge is correct).
I haven't worked with LNF's long, but I think you are getting into boost territory at 35psi that can break a ring land or do other mechanical damage. I would be very careful until you get it figured out.
For your reading of 35psi, since the factory gauge only goes to 30psi, what are you using to see boost that high?
I haven't worked with LNF's long, but I think you are getting into boost territory at 35psi that can break a ring land or do other mechanical damage. I would be very careful until you get it figured out.
For your reading of 35psi, since the factory gauge only goes to 30psi, what are you using to see boost that high?
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
The gauge you say takes it reading from the intake manifold: what exactly is the situation? takes the reading from the MAP sensor through the ECU from the manifold? takes the reading physically from the manifold (it's a mechanical gauge? Or other setup?
The ECU reading on the manifold MAP will never read more than 22.5 psi (255kpa absolute), even if you have the 3 bar sensors from the GMS1 tune in it. That is hard coded into the ECU. If you are reading a sensor for your boost pressure, you must use the boost_lores sensor which is for the MAP in the lower charge pipe. This sensor, if it is the GMS1 version, will read up to the 3 bar limit (if you have the 3 bar GMS1 sensors).
So make sure you are not taking boost readings from the manifold sensor if trying to read more than 22.5psi or it will just cap itself at 22.5 psi.
The ECU reading on the manifold MAP will never read more than 22.5 psi (255kpa absolute), even if you have the 3 bar sensors from the GMS1 tune in it. That is hard coded into the ECU. If you are reading a sensor for your boost pressure, you must use the boost_lores sensor which is for the MAP in the lower charge pipe. This sensor, if it is the GMS1 version, will read up to the 3 bar limit (if you have the 3 bar GMS1 sensors).
So make sure you are not taking boost readings from the manifold sensor if trying to read more than 22.5psi or it will just cap itself at 22.5 psi.
The gauge I have takes the reading physically from the intake manifold and that thing never stops. The waste gate is definitely closed. I will check the preload on the gate and see if it changes anything.
Yes I am on a 6258 tuned to 27psi. However the car just came back from surgery and trying to work out the bugs to go back to tuning.
Thanks all.
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Okay, so I think its working now.
It is boosting to 30psi on the gauge and HP tuners shows 29.X.
It sees about 29 psi around 3500rpm and it stayed there to 4400 as I don't want to push it any higher. There has been a lot of changes since the last tune file and I am sure it can be turned down via software now.
On regards to the Evap, I have done 2 cold starts with the AC and Defroster on. In the radio I can see the evap at 33 whith those things on so lets see what happens.
I have methanol and the controller gets its boost source from the intake manifold.
It is boosting to 30psi on the gauge and HP tuners shows 29.X.
It sees about 29 psi around 3500rpm and it stayed there to 4400 as I don't want to push it any higher. There has been a lot of changes since the last tune file and I am sure it can be turned down via software now.
On regards to the Evap, I have done 2 cold starts with the AC and Defroster on. In the radio I can see the evap at 33 whith those things on so lets see what happens.
I have methanol and the controller gets its boost source from the intake manifold.
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
I dont even know how he has been so patient to be honest.
Each time the motor gets put back together KMO pretty much has to start over. So I stopped sending logs until this thing is healthy.
Also its difficult to tune for max low end torque when its knocking all the time.
Nah I created new tune files so I can troubleshoot and load the tune back when ever i figure it out.
Wasted enough of kmo time troubleshooting.
#13
New Member
Thread Starter
If I was to do this again I would buy the DDM efr kit with the adapter and call it a day.
I am hoping to have this figured out soon and get back to tuning.
#15
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Since we started I have gone through two turbos, 3 return lines, 3 sets of plugs, 2 sets of map sensors,2 downpipes, 1 exhaust manifold, 1 alternator and 2 intake setups and then I blew the differential.
I dont even know how he has been so patient to be honest.
Each time the motor gets put back together KMO pretty much has to start over. So I stopped sending logs until this thing is healthy.
Also its difficult to tune for max low end torque when its knocking all the time.
Nah I created new tune files so I can troubleshoot and load the tune back when ever i figure it out.
Wasted enough of kmo time troubleshooting.
I dont even know how he has been so patient to be honest.
Each time the motor gets put back together KMO pretty much has to start over. So I stopped sending logs until this thing is healthy.
Also its difficult to tune for max low end torque when its knocking all the time.
Nah I created new tune files so I can troubleshoot and load the tune back when ever i figure it out.
Wasted enough of kmo time troubleshooting.
Why so many hard parts? I've obviously not been involved in the setup, but I've done more than my fair share of builds on kappas to know there's no reason to have thrown that many parts at it and have as many problems as this.
I'd be more than willing to help you guys with things if you need. I just don't want people to take my offering to help as any sort of an intrusive way. Believe it or not, I enjoy helping people as long as they're willing to take my help. Even if I am a grumpy old man from time to time.
#16
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
#17
New Member
Thread Starter
Oil return would not seal, then when I finally got it to seal with rtv the fitting on the turbo broke in 2.
The turbo that I bought to replace a turbo sucked in a coupler and bent a compressor fin.
The exhaust manifold broke at the flange.
The downpipe exploded in a hilarious fashion.
Because of my dumbassness in these cars pcv system I ruined 2 3 bar map sensors.
The icing on the cake was the diff, that was over a grand and some change alone.
When it works though it's worth it
The turbo that I bought to replace a turbo sucked in a coupler and bent a compressor fin.
The exhaust manifold broke at the flange.
The downpipe exploded in a hilarious fashion.
Because of my dumbassness in these cars pcv system I ruined 2 3 bar map sensors.
The icing on the cake was the diff, that was over a grand and some change alone.
When it works though it's worth it
#18
Senior Member
As for your boost level, something is either mechanically wrong, or your tuned is way off. 25-27psi is pretty high already. But even if tuned for 27psi, you should NEVER get near 35psi (if the gauge is correct).
I haven't worked with LNF's long, but I think you are getting into boost territory at 35psi that can break a ring land or do other mechanical damage. I would be very careful until you get it figured out.
For your reading of 35psi, since the factory gauge only goes to 30psi, what are you using to see boost that high?
I haven't worked with LNF's long, but I think you are getting into boost territory at 35psi that can break a ring land or do other mechanical damage. I would be very careful until you get it figured out.
For your reading of 35psi, since the factory gauge only goes to 30psi, what are you using to see boost that high?
#19
I believe you where asking me lol if not then my bad lol
For me it's just been kr problems. On the last logs the first pull I would do would come out clean of kr once I did the second pull I kept getting kr after that, in the end timing went down boost went down I mean idk how many thinks we tires and nothing fixed it and when we where close to finishing the tune kr always come out and screwed up the whole tuning
For me it's just been kr problems. On the last logs the first pull I would do would come out clean of kr once I did the second pull I kept getting kr after that, in the end timing went down boost went down I mean idk how many thinks we tires and nothing fixed it and when we where close to finishing the tune kr always come out and screwed up the whole tuning
#20
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
I believe you where asking me lol if not then my bad lol For me it's just been kr problems. On the last logs the first pull I would do would come out clean of kr once I did the second pull I kept getting kr after that, in the end timing went down boost went down I mean idk how many thinks we tires and nothing fixed it and when we where close to finishing the tune kr always come out and screwed up the whole tuning
#22
New Member
Thread Starter
I went to get the inspection today to try that 1 not ready thing mentioned above.
Passed and on the way home got P258a :P
Talk about perfect timing.
I been getting that p258a during the summer since I had the car. Some relay seems to get hot i believe.
Turning the knock sensors today, then a boost leak test and hopefully can get back to tuning.
Passed and on the way home got P258a :P
Talk about perfect timing.
I been getting that p258a during the summer since I had the car. Some relay seems to get hot i believe.
Turning the knock sensors today, then a boost leak test and hopefully can get back to tuning.
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Timnman
2.0L LNF Performance Tech
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03-13-2016 03:00 PM