Has anybody had any problems with no-lift shifts? So far, the majority of the time it has worked fine, but sometimes the engine will rev to 6k when I perform a no-lift shift. Ive tried the no-lift both with and without comp mode on, and experienced this issue both times. What exactly is supposed to be expected in RPM change during a no-lift shift, anybody know? Im just curious, because I would prefer not to Rev my engine to 6 grand very often

 

there isnt much point doing a no-lift shift lower in the rpms.
its meant to be done at redline.

 

yea its meant to be done at high rpms without actually bumpin off the limiter so it doesnt lose boost between shifts.

 

there is a supplement to your owners manual describing how to use this feature....if you didnt get one ask your dealer to get you one...


tap the traction control button twice quickly...competitive mode will be displayed...followed by launch control...(this is from a stop only!) push the pedal to the floor..the rpm's will stop at a predetermined level...(5100 ...ive heard)

with a smooth quick release of the clutch while keeping the pedal to the floor will provide controlled
wheel spin for consistent acceleration... this is from gm...if you didnt do this you are not using it right

i hope this helps...

 

Ta2ooedmike is right you must be stopped and it is a one time use only. Once you have made a pass or a comp launch the system resets. If you try to go into comp mode going down the road it will engage and then disengage. You will think its in comp mode but its not.

Also the no lift shift mode does an ignition interrupt to maintain rpm. If it takes any longer than .2 seconds to complete the shift the interrupt lets go of the engine and the revs will continue to climb to the rev limiter. The interrupt causes the pop in the exhaust because the engine is passing fuel through the engine during the interrupt and when the ignition comes back on the fuel in the exhaust pipe just down stream of the turbo ignites causing the pop. This is the same thing you hear when an Indy car shifts or a pro FWD GM drag car. It interrupts the power to allow the dog pins on the gears to align in an indy or a Xtrac type trans (because they don't use syncros) but in our cars it takes the load off the syncros for a split second so they can align quicker with the slider rings.

 

Thanks, this is very helpful info.

 

Wow, that was pure sex!

 

i dont get it, why does it work best a redline but you get max hp at 5-5.5k?

 

Power under the curve.

 

indy cars use sequential transmissions. pro fwd cars use face plated gear boxes, or dog boxes.

 

This is wrong - once comp. mode is engaged it stays engaged until you turn it off. Notice the little "traction control" light on the dash that stays on? Next time you come to a stop the launch control is readied as well.

I own a T/C and have tested this. Oh and launch control is a gimmick - you can launch better yourself.

 

There is so much I wanna say right now... but I won't.

 

launch control is useful for warranty purposes and bent axles

 

I test drove my buddies T/C tonight...The no lift shift is great

 

lol, i ressurected tis thread from the dead!

i noticed a little problem too

in comp mode while im rolling ill punch it at 20mph in 1st gear and i would is shift. im guessing it is something with the trans and when i take it off comp. mode. i use no lift shift and it doesnt miss at all...

imo i dont think u really need comp mode on this car. i no lift shift without comp mode and it seems to be just as good but people say the car isnt as strong as it is in comp mode but i dunno

 

Hmm, when I tried no-lift-shifting without comp mode on (forgot) the tires tried to break loose in second gear the traction control kicked in, limiting the power and engaging the anti-lock brakes to bring the non-existant problem under control.

 

Explain PLEASE???

 

this is actually incorrect. if this was the case, it would be even worse than a regular shift, where atleast a regular shift, fuel is still being burnt, albeit the smallest amount possible to create combustion. What you stated actually would not cause combustion, making the turbo unspool even faster than just putting the clutch in.

No lift shift drastically retards the ignition advance, but still leaves the throttle wide open with a proper air fuel mixture. This way, plenty of heat is still being created to keep the turbo spooled, yet the ignition retarding prevents you from making 260hp during your shift so you dont blow through your clutch. The incredibly late ignition spark also causes the fuel to still be burning when the exhaust valve opens, which allows some of the burning mixture to leave the block creating the popping sound. Its the sound of combustion without an exhaust valve blocking the noice.

 

agreed x's 10000000000000000000

 

I think with mt drags, the launch control will be much more useful, because all you do is spin.

 

I can't even get my no-lift shift to work :-( I'm so bummed. I don't kno what I am doing wrong. The dealership doesn't have the supplemental attachment to the owners manual so I have not documentation on how to do it. Launch control works well, but the no-lift shifting doesn't work when I attempt it.

 

I'm guessing you just aren't shifting quickly enough. Make sure you have the pedal to the floor and you do the shift as quickly as possible. I've heard it has to be done in 0.2 seconds or something...when it works it really is lightning quick!

Next time just try doing your fastest shift and it should work. Also, don't be shy about slamming it into gear. If you baby it, you are going to go to slow and will have trouble getting it into gear.

 

Amen to that... it feels like you are going to break something if you do it right. You really have to SLAM it into the next gear.. and remember you still need to use the clutch - just leave the gas down, but still use the clutch.

Do it around 6k RPM - right before redline. If you do it too soon, it doesnt work.

 

First off, there's no competition mode. I know the owners manual says it but lets be real here. It's called traction control, and it just changes a few parameters in the tranny and LSD plus the enginees output too, all vis the PCM. It will work every now and again if traction is left on after engine start, but not very much. Full effect can only be realized with the traction button pushed and the system disengaged.

 

The LSD is not an electronic LSD - so no changes there.
The tranny is a manual shift, not electronic - so no changes there.

I have not noticed any difference in the tuning (recording/monitoring via Interceptor scan gages), so you are not getting any more HP using "competition mode".

The only thing you gain by using it is the launch control (again, gimick, launch better yourself) and the no-lift-shift - which is where the real gains are (very useful as noted by Bill Hahn at the track)

However, you are right in the fact that full race effect can only be felt by disabling traction control and ESC - right as you spin off the road and into a tree .